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Posts posted by mjrstar
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Is this only for small cars?
The airtrek turbo I have has been pretty decent, it's close to 230,000km and has had little bits and pieces like a split in the radiator top tank and leaky shocks at the last of..
Sure it's a bit hungry on gas, but it's ability to go from 0-50 kph in not very long due to the small turbo is bloody handy for taking gaps in traffic you wouldn't normally consider..
We first purchased it in 2008, had for ~100,000 then foolishly traded it on some hyundai diesel thing.
Popped up on trademe for 4 grand in 2017 so brought it back. Has provided cheap motoring since then. Not bad in the mud either with the basic awd system..
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A cheap obd2 scanner that Bluetooths to your phone is such a good way to save time on diagnisis...
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If you want an economical boring runabout get a Honda something..
If you want to fix that Toyota pos then maybe plug in a scanner and see if the IAT and ECT sensors are happy. It also may pick up which cylinder is misfiring and give you the option to shuffle the coil pack to a different cylinder to see if the miss moves about.
You may have disturbed or damaged wiring during the alternator fix up. It sound to me like a semi limp mode for too high temp of some sort. And the miss may be a soft rev limit.
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I think bmw (maybe others too) do this a bit to improve fuel economy.
It kicks the alternator in when the engine on the overrun or when battery voltage drops to a certain level..
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Fit teleflex cable to butterfly, then add a choke cable knob from a Morris minor mounted on the dashboard. No need for that vacuum fuckery.
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Does it have a coolant passage through the throttle body?
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If you swap to ek lower arms you can run fork type.
Might be an easier option.
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If you want to run that butterfly thing, just bore a hole / holes in the butterfly and have either open /closed.
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Great progress!
This may not be all that relevant, but I have found on my Honda due to the way its used, there is far more side loading on the exhaust from cornering forces than vertical load from its own weight.
This is something that wouldn't be a problem for a road car, but for a track machine you don't want to underestimate how much side to side loading will be applied.
/ like sheepers says get version 1 up and running with whatever stock body mounts you have then fine tune it down the track.
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Probably a dumb question, but have you checked pressures on the newly fitted tyres?
Tyre shop will often leave pressure very high when I get tyres done.. They'd need to be within a few psi to keep the system happy.
not just flat, for example the system may be unhappy with 2 tyres at 40 psi and the other 2 at 32 psi.
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I'm probably going to suggest not to sand blast, especially if the material is porous as it can lead to contamination, maybe give it a good heat up with a heat gun to see if you can bleed out any nasties..
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Sweet as, do you need regulator & flow meter too?
I have just rangi'd up a tacking band to suit 3" for you to use so that better be your exhaust tube size..
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I would get the bits as clean as you can, including a good scrub with some solvent.
Then find a fabricator / someone that have a crack at it with aluminum tig.
It is at least pretty thick so there is a decent chance of a successful repair.
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If its not too far out of your way you can come & grab my bottle if you want, I probably have a handful of 3 inch pie cuts you can have too.
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This has had a replacement engine yeah?
I'd be checking front knuckle wiring wherever it terminates back to the body if it's been apart for axle removal etc..
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Oooh I wonder if the coil stalks are the same length on different engines, might be able to extend the spring a little if the spark is having to take a jump to get to the plug.
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I'd check the fuel rail for internal corrosion, if the car has a stock fuel rail which isn't anodised inside and has been run on ethanol it can cause pretty nasty corrosion and a partial blockage. I have seen a single piston meltdown in an evo caused by this.
The piston has been torched somehow, and the edge of the valve recess is most prone due to material thickness, as mentioned before the head was pulled. So at some stage in its life that cylinder has seen more air (or more likely less fuel) than its other 5 Brothers.
What you don't know is when this was..
First up is get yourself 6 milk bottles and take a leaf out of @Roman 's fuel injector science (cool idea) to rule out fuel delivery in its current condition.
Does the car run ballast resistor for injectors? As dodgy impedance across one of those would affect duty cycle.
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3 minutes ago, xsspeed said:
holy lol at gearstick - what are these called?
I actually find the gear change in those eu3 civics is bloody good to use. The only criticism other than it not having a K24 or k20r engine is that the Eps is a little bit over assisted. A lot of car for the money, and difficult to find much 2000+ with manual for cheap.
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The clock spring in my EK was a pretty fragile ribbon cable sort of thing, that's the first place I would look.
We'll that any any other yellow (or was it orange) electrical plug you might have played with.
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4 minutes ago, MightyJoe said:
how many hrs of welding will a 5kg get? edit, google suggests 5-6hrs. thats heaps. awesome cheers.
I would say over 5hrs of weld time depending on preferred flow rate.
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How much gas do you think you'll use?
Bunnings argoshield / mig gas was popular here, personally I run a 5kg owner bottle co2 for mig, and an F size ezyswap argon on my TIG ..
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16 minutes ago, kpr said:
spigot bearing
Good point, hadn't considered that but would be worthwhile.
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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt
in Tech Talk
Posted
Sounds a little like 2 gears selected.. Has anyone been fiddling with the gearbox?
How much does it rotate before coming to a stop?
I'd start by running the prop shaft by hand with the box in neutral and go from there.. Maybe disconnect at diff end if you can't tell which end is stopping the turnage.
Edit : too slow I didn't copy @RUNAMUCKhonest..