mjrstar

For measuring clamping force you use the area of one side of the pistons (a pair on 4 pots). Imagine pads coming up against a fixed object it's like one set of Pistons is the fixed object.

For fluid displacement remember that a sliding piston also has to take up the air gap on the "fixed" side pad so the piston travel will be more when measured than one side a set of opposed 4 pots.

A 1 inch master cylinder is a good start, to compare with an Evo with brembos, they run a 17/16 cylinder and have 40 and 46mm pistons..

To maintain a high solid pedal I'd be looking at the 35mm pistons, but as always DYOR.

Real question is why go for the 4 pots? Is it to make it look cool, as there isn't too much wrong with a well set-up 2 piston sliding caliper from a performance perspective.

If you went for the 25mm you may have not enough force at the pad, so pedal would be high and hard and require more leg effort for same amount of braking performance.

If you went for huge pistons you'd end up with long pedal travel before the bite point and potential for making the braking pressure more difficult to modulate.

Well if it's not a pull clutch it sounds like it's stuck on a dowel, or friction plate stuck on the spline.. or maybe pilot bearing has input shaft jammed in there..

Once you are happy there is no hidden bolts I'd gently use the clutch pedal to see if that spreads things apart.

Is it a pull clutch?

3 minutes ago, Roman said:

Thats really interesting aye, reach that 4500rpm mark and thats where 70% cant flow enough anymore 

Those graphs are cool, interesting that the deviation is so clear when throttle percentage starts to play a part..

One of the guys I spoke to kind of backs this up, he reckons when he swapped to itb’s it became quite noticeable if he didn't get to 100% throttle he didn't get all of the horsepower.. when it was on a single throttle body it didn't seem to matter so much.

OD of the clutch face area is 220mm, centre bore of clutch disc is close to 25.6mm

Open wheel thing is all sorts of cool...

I have been talking to people that run individual throttle bodies, and often they talk about how a few percent of throttle change can really help with torque control..

I find with my Honda (stock single throttle body on an 1800)that realistically between say 60% and wide open throttle there is a bit of a change in noise maybe but not a whole lot of torque or power change..

This led me to think of a few questions does having itb's actually give greater  torque control, does part throttle at lower rpm perform better than wide open throttle, and if so with an e-throttle, could you set up a table to chase throttle percentage as rpm rises.

To this point it'd be interesting to see what a Dyno run at 95% or 70% compares to a standard full throttle run..

presumably under a certain power output there shouldn't be much loss if any?

Perhaps @Roman could draw us a graph..

Looks to be 24 spline.

Pressure plate part no is nsc624

Are you sorted for flywheel etc? I believe this setup collecting rust in my shed is to suit sr20.

The Original plan was to mod it to fit between Evo motor and 370z gearbox, but Nissan rb26 made way more sense once I found out it shared the same crank pcd as early 6 bolt 4g63

14 hours ago, Sunbeam said:

Also, I came to ask a question. My trailer has LED lights and I never had an issue with them. My latest tow rig, a beeeemer X5 has a conniption fit when I plug the trailer in with fast flashing blinkers and bulb failure warnings for Africa. I suspect the trailer light module was not intended for use with LEDs and thus the low current draw is causing the strange behaviour and failure messages. I don’t want to change the lights, so is there anything else I could do? Fit resistors? I’m a numpty with electrickery….

You can buy led trailer interface adapters which should eliminate the issue.

So not just me that had a sub optimal dealing with Chase..

Muffler wise I have been very happy with the coby items I have used, the guy I dealt with last time was really helpful too..

I was expecting the gearing to be a bit meh with the small capacity na engine, but it's getting along pretty nicely, definitely more pull in the next gear than I anticipated. 

Just need to work on your video data overlay skills. 

EDIT: I use race render, it seems happy to accept most .csv files and will take the data from the factory Honda ecu in my civic, it'd be fine with link ecu data no doubt too.

https://racerender.com/Products/index.html

Looks and sounds fast!

Not exactly "hot" but as far as bang for buck its difficult to go faster for cheaper than a b series honda.. (although prices tend to be creeping up these days) 

Mivec Mirage doesn't seem to handle or go quite as well... But I guess it  depends on what you want, I'd be looking for something that already had a rollcage for a track machine. 

On 26/09/2022 at 14:22, shizzl said:

Yarp.

 

had it running again today, and noticed the revs increased when the clutch was pushed in.

hmmmm

Pinion angle, driveshaft length etc.. Has all been covered off yeah? 

5 hours ago, fuel said:

slap an evo 4-9 TD05 and proper FMIC on that thing and turn up the boost! 

And some bigger injectors, new front pipe, camshaft upgrade, manual swap reflash etc.. 

3 hours ago, bigfoot said:

First thing I want to do is more slam, any tips?

I think the evo 4-5 front struts go in and give about 30mm drop, you add a 3mm shim where the knuckle bolts through the bottom of the strut. 

I don't know if there is a comple bolt in oem option for the rear. 

Yeah if panel steel only then 0.6 is great it gives you more adjustability in the low range due to greater current drop through the wire stick out. (tip to work) 

Although is 100% rubbish if you need to weld some thick stuff. Wire is pretty cheap, Maybe grab some 0.9 as well and a couple of tips 0.9 tips, generally the 0.6 should be fine in a bigger liner.. 

My local engineering supplies sells Xcel-Arc which I use, but suspect it's all much of a muchness. 

One thing to factor in when gearing up for co2 mig is you'll need a thread adapter to use a normal argon regulator.. 

Such as:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/building-renovation/tools/other/listing/3770563324?gclid=CjwKCAjwpqCZBhAbEiwAa7pXeWLObiEjzt92tsZfPaU-opb8YAdYHnlBIL2ZMIdhqGxRwXmBBPNAoRoC-CkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

4 hours ago, kpr said:

If it were  some kind of issue with the injector coil  like you suspect.  that could do all sorts of silly stuff with the dwell time.  so no, or next to no fuel could have been coming out on idle.

what was wrong with the xpurt injectors?   Thought about running unmodified bosch injectors?

Yeah injector coil resistance could well be further up the shit once a dose of engine bay radiant heat and possibly vibration is applied.. 

Flow testing in a rig could be a far less challenging set of conditions? 

1 hour ago, Jusepy82 said:

Hey has anyone used a c02 fire extinguisher as their bottle for welding as a gas setup ?

Im about to pull the trigger on the cigweld 185 and need to start thinking about a gas setup. Ive noticed bunnings has a bottle scheme ...

I run an owner bottle 5kg of co2 on my mig, goes hard for what it is. 

5 minutes ago, shizzl said:

No noises, just stalls on release

clutch fork and bearing has some movement at rest so feel normal.

Can you bar the engine over at rest with the clutch disengaged? 

Could the clutch release fork or release bearing be catching on the pressure plate, ie its moved out of the way when the clutch is depressed and gets hung up when released... 

What sort of noise does it make when it doesn't go? 

Does it stall the engine when you let the clutch out? 

I would generally agree about who cares with the black plates, but actually on @thegreatestben fronch thing which massive black grille it actually looks a lot more at home than a white plate.. 

Might be a photo on the p-plate thread.