mjrstar

On 30/04/2024 at 11:26, Muncie said:

Hi All I've had an idea to add some strain gauges into my rear suspension to give torque readings while road tuning so I can go one better than just the yup that feels faster scenario I would be using otherwise.

Ideally I'd feed it into the ecu but I think I may be running out of capacity on mine.

What else could be used (cheaply) to monitor a mv/v signal that could maybe give a dashboard readout on a screen with live or peak data readout? 

I'd save a lot of messing around and just go straight to the @Roman approved virtual dyno app, it makes the graphs so you don't have to.

7 minutes ago, 440bbm said:

Waterproofing paint for a container roof.  Have patched a few leaks on the container roof, and its looking pretty rough. I need to get through the next 8 months. What can i use to paint and seal off any chances of water ingress. 

looking at the likes of this: Elastomeric Paint - Subflex 5000 - House Paint New Zealand  

Because its a cheaper version of this: Liquid Rubber Waterproof Sealant for Roofing & Commercial Waterproofing (cohe.co.nz)

 

I can buy New corrogated iron delivered for $835 in the right colour and have the timber to make a roof over its lid which would be more preferable than about 600+ for 20L of the paint.

 

Is there a more accessible product or anyone have any advise for other ideas?  We are hamilton based.

 

I used a bitumen stuff sika 4L blackseal plus from bunnings to stop water getting into some garbage gazebo sort of thing made from polystyrene. not the easiest to spread, but goes hard / don't get it on your hands. 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/sika-4l-blackseal-plus-bitumen-waterproofing-membrane_p0443433?store=9527&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwir2xBhC_ARIsAMTXk84SwSYOJlKIM02KNdUtZCPNB3XoAakuisNK5WXIYR2gPiAlxFlSZDIaAiJZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Battery cable ends.

Is there a superior material selection? I have been through a couple of plated copper terminals in pretty short succession, its always the negative which suggests it's under used / not charged often enough which I'd have to say is correct.

Are the cast looking brass terminals more corrosion resistant? or is there a magic jizz that will make my cable ends last a bit longer...Under the ball of blue/ green fuzz the battery terminals themselves still look mint on the 3 yo battery. 

Is it safe to assume you fixed this before the cams went in?

Wife had an ee80 many moons ago, it was stolen twice whilst she owned it.. it was replaced by an ae111 which was stolen zero times which was handy..

I just looks up the old ee80, and once again reported stolen /wanted by police. Random..

I'm all good with the current safety inspection of older cars, one thing I though....

I think there should be slightly more leniency for the testing of brake imbalance on old historic /classic.. I want the convenience of going to a vtnz, but I don't want the ballsache of having to get a 50 year old braking system to be as accurate and repeatable as a modern day equivalent when the car weighs under 700kg and probably couldn't do a 17 second 1/4 mile..

could you maybe make 2 halves from some MDF, then use that to press the shape into aluminium and then weld together, if you get some O state alumimium its very workable...

Don't you just ignore the evaporator box and deal with whatever the blower outlet and heater core inlet look like?

This is the stock MX5 bit.

3 minutes ago, rotormotor said:

Not racecar, road legal.

Mx5 ac box delete is an item but bloody US as well.

I'm pretty sure non AC spec MX5 should be a thing? 

Ooh what about an na MX5 duct as a starting point..

Is there an non-aircon model of your car?

If not I made some heater duct bits from fibreglass, started with cardboard and tape then laid what I needed to over the top.. bonus is no-one will ever see it so doesn't need to be a perfect finish..

it might depend a little bit on just how wild the cams are, i have found with an air flow metered engine you can get away with a bit, certainly more than you can on a MAP sensor engine.

You'd want to be sure it has piston to valve clearance, and see if the cams are designed to run close to base cam timing, i dropped some smallish kelfords into my old evo on stock cam gears, and it didn't really have much affect on AFR's, but I can confirm it did in fact go hard for what it was. 

Would something like the top tank off this work?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/radiators/listing/4647905590

I have one with a mystery leak that I couldn't be bothered trying to solve so I just got a replacement rad.. 

^^ yeah 100% hf start if you are learning tig. Otherwise you will give up.

Convert the k24 to run Volkswagen dsg, there are kits.

^^about a grand give or take, there is a pretty consistent supply on face crack but I guess supply will dry up one day..

Old mate had a number of dramas on his rally FD. The culprit was a coolant temp sensor that was internally failing, which made the ecu pretty unhappy when it would read something silly like 150deg and then negative 20deg on a rally stage..

for this reason alone you should at consider a fresh OEM sensor in critical applications if they are cheap enough or inspect / test the ones you have before a full send, and have not stupid defaults for open or closed circuit failure. No need to deviate away from stock sensors... With the exception of the O2.

I would also suspect a stock narrow band O2 might not be much use on a tuned rotary, maybe an aftermarket wideband would make more sense?

Others are probably better positioned to talk about closed loop knock control it might be ok for mild tune?

cool car, hopefully you can rescue it!

that cylinder head is probably 1st gen B16a (the cam cover is anyway).. 

P30 - B16a

P72 - b18c black top (i don't think its one of those unless the inlet manifold has been modified to fit)

P73 - B18cr

^^ good point, I had long body in by brain, even after the @keltik comment. 

i bet there are piles of falcon injectors from turbo barras that have been upgraded, even the non-turbo ones might be around 300cc?  but DYOR

1 hour ago, kws said:

My alto is the same size and weighs 670kg or so 

Yeah wife's new shape swift sport is almost normal sized small hatch and somehow weighs less than my ek civic racecar which certainly doesn't have any creature comforts..not sure how Suzuki do it.

^^ I reckon if you take the batteries out and fit a petrol motor you'd get it under 1000kg.

Is the 1000kg rule going to be gvm or tare. In my mind it kind of has to be gvm.

VF really was peak commodore, so much nicer inside than an VE. Whatever the model after was was blegh / not really a commodore..