Adoom

There should be a plastic cover over the lens that you replace. The std rectangle ones are only a few $ at Mitre10. I bought one of these Optrels two years ago, it may be an old model now. It was pretty expensive for me, $800. But the clarity in dark and not dark mode is fantastic, a massive improvement over my previous one! It also has a big viewing angle, not like the typical letterbox view. https://www.prolineindustrial.co.nz/product/optrel-panoramaxx-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-204544 I'd definitely recommend it if your budget can accommodate it. Note: My previous experience has been with a cheap non-auto darkening helmet. Then a ~$200 auto darkening helmet. Now with the expensive optrel.

EDIT: In the discussion thread... I solved the leaky clamps by spraying silicone spray between the hose and clamp allowing it to be tightened without pinching the hose. I found the oil leak eventually. When I welded on the AN fittings to my remote filter adapter plate, I had to machine a relief into the weld for bolt clearance. Doing this had created a tiny little pin hole, I could barely see it but when I removed the bolt and ran the engine I could see a weep of oil coming out of apparently nowhere. So I bathed it in acetone, stripped off all the paint, spot blasted the weld area with the sand blaster then bathed it in acetone again. Then dried it with the heat gun. Luck seemed to be with me and I managed to get a puddle going without it turning to a pile of slag. The weld on the left didn't obviously leak, but it had a suspicious looking dot, so I remelted it just in case. Forgive the welding, I am still a tig novice. This fix is probably only the 3rd time I've welded aluminium. The engine bay part of the loom wrapping is basically done, I used that expanding sleeve stuff. I wouldn't say I'm ecstatic with the result, but I suppose it's acceptable. I also sorted out the wiring for the alternator so the charging circuit works now.

I must get some stainless rod and try this! I assume that unless you are welding safety critical parts for NDT, it won't matter using a bit of stainless?

I got my tig stuff from these guys, just because it's all online. https://www.prolineindustrial.co.nz/cat/welding-equipment/tig-welding/tig-filler-wires I am still a novice, but I used 1.6mm for my mild steel exhaust. It went okay, you have to be really crazy with cleaning the weld area, any trace of oil or dirt and the weld fills with bubbles then you have to grind out and start again.

Lubricating the hose under the clamp with silicone spray so they don't pinch when tightening appears to have fixed the leaks. Now I'm trying to identify the cause of an oil leak at the adapter plate for the remote mount oil filter. I'm hoping it's just the figure 8 o-ring that needs replacing, not a pin hole in the weld.

Internet has suggested a lubricant between the silicone hose and the clamp allowing it to slip and not pinch the hose. I'll try that before I abandon $60 of clamps.

Damn, I got the cool looking clamps because there were going to be so many of them and right in your face. I did put a bead on the aluminium tube, using the modified vice grip method. Maybe it will help if I move the clamp right on top of the bead, rather than beside it?

Pieced together the radiator pipes. SO. MANY. CLAMPS! It was actually slightly cheaper this way than buying some random rubber pipes with the right bends and cutting them up. It was still far more than I was expecting. I have cranked the clamps up as tight as I can but I still have leaks when the engine warms up. A bunch of leaks. It seems to be sealing okay at the engine and radiator connections. I'm thinking that since the joints where it is leaking are almost never going to need taking apart, I'll squirt some silicone sealer between the pipe and hose, then put the clamps on again.

In theory, yes. But I don't think it's advised because the mounts are single shear when most pivoting alternators are double shear. In my scenario, I don't have the clearance to move it anywhere. Some people make a bracket to mount an adjustable idler pulley. But this "stretch fit" belt is by far the easiest option. I just don't want to find that it is possible to be too tight and damage the alternator bearing. I tried looking up multi-v belt tension specs, but they required specialist measuring tools.

Can a 5 rib poly-v belt be too tight and damage the alternator bearings or something? Or are the bearings stronger than the belt? I am running an alternator only setup on my 1UZFE, so there is no tensioner. An internet person recommended a gates stretch-fit belt of a particular size that fits. I looked up the special tool used to install the stretch-fit belts then made do with random stuff that was the appropriate shape. I got the belt on, but it's pretty dang tight. Should I be concerned for my alternator?

Pretty sure I read somewhere that Aeroflow recommend clamps on their pushlock fittings if it's over X degrees hotness. EDIT: LOL just noticed I have basically just said the same as Cletus

Is this stuff all good for EFI hose? It does say unleaded gasoline and 290PSI, so I'm thinking 'Yes'... https://aeroflowperformance.com/af500-08-3mblk-8-1-2-black-push-lock-hose

There were indeed two sticky injectors. I ran the injector test again, and two of them were real quiet. I tapped them with the socket extension a bit and they freed up. So now it runs way better. I took a video of me fumbling with the ignition one handed to start it and make vrooming noises. I also installed the 'rest' of the exhaust, so now it reaches about halfway down the gearbox. https://youtu.be/K9sr3xajSOE I thought about using the original copper radiator, but when I had a better look, I found that the fins were disintegrating. So I've ordered a radiator from Fenix. Ouch, my wallet. After lots of looking at radiators for specific cars and having no luck, it turns out their universal medium radiator is within 5mm of the oem radiator. It also has the same type of mounting flange down the sides, I just need to trim it and drill the holes, then I can use the factory mounts.

Thanks, it feels like I passed a milestone. I should probably move on to wrapping the loom with the expanding mesh sleeve stuff I bought yonks ago.

I revisited some of CarTuneNZ's videos. Extremely fortunately for me, he has a series of videos on wiring and configuring the ECU for exactly my setup. The issue was the base timing, it needs to be changed for the COP setup. I also hadn't configured the idle control So now it runs! Quite loud because it's only got headers. I can't really run it till it warm because I've got no cooling system. It sounds like it's running a bit rough. Maybe some of the injectors are sticky? It has been sitting for several years...

Sayf Tea No leaks. Didn't die. No fire. Didn't want to start though. It would just do a random cough every 2 or 3 seconds. I assume it should run, the tune is from Sheepers 1UZ when it was still standard. All I've done is modify the config for COP. I guess it's the timing??? Maybe... But I don't have a timing light. I didn't leave the fuel in the bowl.

I'm keen on modifying something from another car and replacing the pump. Those aftermarket ones seem excessive for my application. Does anyone know of a suitable doner that is all metal so I can modify it easily? I suppose I could just make it all from scratch. It's just a flat plate with some pipes and a bracket thing.

Has anyone installed a in-tank efi pump into a fuel tank that did not have one before? I'm considering using an in-tank pump on the triumph, for the 1uzfe. My reasons are so I don't need to find an external mounting location and avoid having a surge tank and lift pump, also I would assume it's much quieter(because not-racecar). Is it straightforward? How do you deal with fuel surge? The tank has no internal baffles. What about the height of the tank? The oem stuff I have seen photos of look like just a big plastic thing with everything contained within it, I suspect I cannot modify that for height, or make use of the included float level. Should I just use an external pump and mount it under the car, using the OEM outlet on the bottom of the tank? I've finished the ecu wiring and want to test start the engine... but the old external fuel pump I had was fuckzorred(I think the E85 ate it) so I need to think about a new pump now...

Turns out... lead is easy to melt. This was the first attempt. I pulled real hard on the other end of the cable and it pulled out. Second attempt, I preheated the mould with the heat gun and also untwisted the cable so the wires were all separate and splayed them out. This seemed to work, seems much stronger. Glued an extra appendage on the triumph pedal so the toyota cable bits fit. I did check that it opens the throttle all the way. More than all the way... But the pedal has an adjustable stop, so I adjusted that.

Actually, this looks promising. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002602810952.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.257d6ddekfRGNd&algo_pvid=d840d349-13ad-42b0-a9bb-c5aa26c06c47&algo_exp_id=d840d349-13ad-42b0-a9bb-c5aa26c06c47-11

If anyone has links to part numbers for common OEM connector terminals, that would be super handy. I know you can get them from places like RS components, but it's often hard to identify them from the one image they show you.

Please tell me you have a plan to narrow the track so it's the same as the maxi. I think a stealth look would be cooler than MASSIVE arch extensions.

Mine is one of those WTF does this even fit super skinny allen keys ground to a long chisel tip. I found that it works better than wire because it's stiff and won't easily bend.

I've been doing the wiring. It's not an exciting thing to take photos of. I need to relocate the battery in the boot and I'll run the cable inside the car, so I decided I wanted a through-bulkhead stud thing so I had power right beside the fusebox/ecu and in the engine bay to connect the starter cable to. Googles through-bulkhead stud thing. $50!!! I'm sure I can make one for less than that. So I spent $26 on a short bit of 20mm brass bar. I tell myself I'll have lots left over for something else. I already had a big big of acetal I could use for the body. So I spent maybe an hour on the lathe making round things and round things with holes in. To cut the thread... I initially attempted it with my cheapo 'Frost' die, because brass is 'soft', right. And it was entirely useless, Massive amounts of effort required to cut a single thread. So I spent $24 on a volkel die.... plus $6 shipping. I've said it before... damn these are good. It's so fucking sharp, I could just about start the thread holding the die in my hand! It was too big for my die holder... so like a barbarian I used vice grips. Those small screws are countersunk so they don't end up being made live.

Too late now, but I reckon citric acid would have worked on those steel wheels. Citric acid is cheap, you get it in powder form. I think I got my on trademe. A big bulk bag, not the teeny pots used for making food things. Or electrolysis would be safer, no chance of leaving it in too long. Also cheap. In both cases you need a plastic thing you can submerge a wheel in. Then you give them a rinse and wipe with a scourer pad. Nice clean metal, until it dries and immediately flash rusts.