Adoom

Can I use this hose? https://1stparts.co.nz/product/aeroflow-push-lock-500-black-series-hose-5-per-metre-5-16-new-fuel-safe-and-petroleum-oils-charged-per-metre-not-submersible/ It has the pressure rating and "Fuel/Oil" written on it. Or does it specifically have to say SAEJ30R9 for the WOF man to be happy?

What numbers/specification needs to be on the side of my 5/16 Fuel Injection hose?

Other than a lack of time and money, I think my main issue will be getting it to run with the factory ECU and keeping as little as possible of the commodore wiring and modules. I found a guy over near Palmerston North who says he can 'recode' the appropriate modules and ECU to make me a 'kit'. Thanks for the tip about the VE sump, I'll have to have a look.

I'm 96% sure the left cabinet says led zeppelin with what looks like a 'Flash Gordon' style rocket, or several zeppelins. and the right one says Van Halen across the bottom with enough blurry space for "Eddie" in front of it.

That looks like it takes AAAAGES to do.

I had one conveniently within reach.

These are pictures.

Got some more gas for the welder and finished off welding on the reinforcing plates. Not sure of the easiest way to remove the gussets from the old engine mounts, I can't get in any closer with the grinder without cutting stuff I want to keep. I'm not even going to try remove the giant 10mm flatbar @dmulally welded to the top of the chassis rail. I think, I'd regret it if I tried.

Got some factory engine mount rubbers and made some mounts. I'll weld the top and bottom of the reinforcing plates next time the engine is out.

So the Bosch is actually a walbro. The pumps are still fucked though. I could not revive them on the bench. The Carter is not drawing any current. I pulled the pump guts out and manually turned the motor. It turns but didn't spin freely, and no signs of life. The Walbro still draws current and gets warm, but no amount of banging on a hard surface would wake it up.

I got as far as smacking it in the car while applying power. Might have time today to pull the pumps... got to do all the xmas shopping today though.

So this has been living in the side shed for a while so I can do stuff to the Scimitar. I'd been starting it occasionally. A few months back it suddenly wouldn't idle or rev and couldn't keep it runnings. Well shit. Injectors must be gummed up? Several months later, last weekend, I finally got around to taking the injectors out. I put them in a jar of mineral turps cause it seems to be a pretty good solvent. Then I put that jar in the ultrasonic cleaner, for 30 minutes. I did that a few times, they probably had about 2 hours total. Today I put the injectors back in the car and reconnect everything. Fetched the battery and installed it. Turn the ignition on.... wait... where's the fuel pump prime. Turn the ignition off and on again but still no noise from the lift pump or high pressure pump. Have a look at those, the wiring to them feels a bit warm. Maybe the earth has corroded? Go get the jumper cables and connect the pumps directly to the battery. Nothing. Well, fuck. BOTH pumps are gummed up with old gas? The low pressure Carter looks like it might come apart, maybe. But the Bosch, I assume I just have to fork out for a new one?

It's the later tandem master cylinder(though this car did originally have a single circuit). As far as I know, the same tandem master is on the Stag(dunno if all of them had it). Internet says Stag is larger bore. Rimmers or Chris Witor in UK have the kits for the tandem, so that's a last resort. I'll stop in at MP Autoparts on my way home and see if Greg has anything.

Yes, I could do something like that. I'd prefer to stay with the regular master cylinder and put in an adjustable pressure reducing valve to fix any balance issues. Just because it's simpler.

Noticed the master cylinder is leaking a little out the back. I thought I put a seal kit in it, but I guess that was 7+ years ago and it's just been sitting in a box since then. Hawkswood have no stock. I wonder if BNT will have anything... It's usable for now, the brakes just need to work enough to tow it 6 minutes up the road to visit the alignment machine. But that likely won't happen this year.

Brakes bled on my lunch break, with some bottles of random DOT4. Both rear banjo bolts were only finger tight. And one of the lines at the rear t-piece needed tightening and loosening a few times before it stopped leaking under pressure. After bleeding, I held down the pedal hard as I could for about 30 seconds, still dry at all the joins. NFI what the brake balance is like. Handbrake works. Guess the next thing is to put the wheels on and take it off the tip-over jig. Then enquire at my local garage if I can put it on their wheel alignment machine to see if the subframe is anywhere near straight. It's Julian Cheers old place, he said there is an alignment machine.

Reinstalled the underbits and put it back down. Now I can test the lines for the rear brakes. And need to make mounts for the passenger seat. It could then go on a wheel alignment machine to see if the subframe is mounted straight. Then put it back up. Take everything back off. Weld the subframe mounting studs so they can't move. Finish the welding on the underside of the passenger seat mount. Seam seal. Then some kind of top coat. Put all the bits back on. Put it back down. etc... etc..

Spent some time getting the engine where it needed to be. Back corner of one head wanted to be in the same place as the footwell/bulkhead. The small amount of intrusion. Flipped the gearbox xmember backwards and it got close enough to work with a couple extra holes. I'll modify it a bit more to lift the box a little. As well as needing extra captive nuts in the chassis. Gear linkage didn't come with the box, they sell it separately, it also sits way too far back, so I need to make one. Or maybe adapt one from a K11 for the lolz

Gear wobbler installed. I can get all gears. The rods needed to be shortened. And a small area of the tunnel needed to be massaged in by 5mm for clearance. The nissan rear rubber was very soft so the gear change was not great. I got some urethane mounts intended for an original mini linkage and have mocked up a bracket. MUCH better now. Made some clearance for the back of the intake plenum. It won't get in the way of the brake and clutch mechanisms. A factory radiator "fits". I think I will cut out the inner wing on this side too, so it fits a bit better. The bottom pipe will need to be in the middle to go between the mounts.

Subframe getting there. Engine moved a bit over to the passenger side for tie rod clearance. I had to rework the gearbox mount because I initially did it without shims and it was WAY TOO tight. I'm trying to find somewhere to add more bracing to the front tierod mounts since I've had to trim them a bit.

You have definitely removed ALL the bolts, right?

Giving the mini project some love. On the car, I made some cardboard templates and marked limits of where tubes could end. Then rough cut the tubes to just longer than the correct length. Then wrestled it out past the engine and bolted it to the jig on my steel table. Once I got the pipes in where I thought they needed to go and welded enough that they would stay in place. I trial fit it in the car again. Now how to get the engine back in there.... I lifted the car up even higher on blocks and wobbly scissor jacks, to slide the engine under front the front. Then 3D tetris for at least an hour to get it up into place. It's tight. I will need to add some clearance to the box section here. My engine mounts are stiff, but probably not that stiff. An engine steady bar may also be required. The right side tie rod mount is the main clearance issue here. This pipe is way out here to clear the front pulley(by 8mm!) but I've realised it will interfere with the lower shock mount. So I'll be adding a bend. That flappy plate will get gussets later so it can't bend. The other side might need the same treatment, but it doesn't stick out nearly as far. I'm hoping, when I'm done, I'll be able to install the subframe on the engine, the lower the car onto it.

As far as I can tell. It's not canbus lighting. And it doesn't sense the current to see if a bulb is blown. I think it was just put there by the towbar installer because he assumed. He also didn't know subaru provided a plug in the loom where the factory optional trailer light loom goes so he just hacked into the wiring behind the light. I has deleted it. Discovered brake light bulbs are both gone. Only the high stop light was working. No warning lights anywhere. Wonder how long she's been driving around like that....

Hmmm, but this doesn't have a separate power wire. But I guess it must serve the same purpose.

The trailer plug isn't working on 2012 Subaru forester. The terminals were rusty, so I replaced the plug. But still no power. This thing is inline in the cable. I'm testing for power on the tail light circuit. Power is not getting through this thing. It wasn't sealed and had some oxidation I cleaned off. Wtf is it? Can I delete it? Car doesn't have LED bulbs if that's what it's for.