dave123456789

Well the Prince failed its last wof on a few things so I pulled it off the road and its been chilling out in dry storage since. Its looking a little dusty but have big plans for it now, 2013 will be its year. Got all the ball joints removed ready to send away, just need to get back out to the warehouse to pull the gearbox out to do the clutch then probably start on some panel work. Time to get motivated. Feel free to comment on which way I should go about it, planning on big wide steels on the rear and probably going to keep the vauxhall engine in it cause its already there and im not rich enough for something better. Looking a little sad but its in pretty good condition still, thankful for dry storage. Still got the mad rake going on since I never lowered the rear. Fat ass.

Where abouts at westgate are we all meeting at before we head up north?

You want a pic of the bbq? I'll grab the mrs phone when shes home and take a photo for ya. Do i have to come remove all the parts or can you bring them to the meet? Could I grab the rear brake cylinders too?

I got one, only hot plate and grill. think its a 3 burner. Legs are attached with wing nuts so easy to pull apart. Or 3 burner too small?

I reckon it looks better without the mirrors. None of my cars have mirrors so I might be biased, head checking like a boss

hey mate i tried tuning the carb and the car will die if i turn mixture screw in quite a bit but it will only die/stumble if i crank it so far out if falls out then the car dies. what would cause this? i also couldnt get it to idle at 750-800 so its still at about 900-1000 depending on how it wants to behave. i also have the lame problem of it dying when i come to a stop sometimes, i tried cranking the idle up to something stupid to see if that would fix it but even with a 1700rpm idle it would still die when slowing to a stop. i also had a crack at checking the timing with a bulb. i solder some wire to a bulb and set the pulling between the first at second notch (which it states in the manual to be between 5 and 10 degrees) but i had no idea where to hook the bulb up and a couple of fail spots i tried just kept it lit the whole time. i understand one goes to earth but where does the positive go?? edit: sorry if these seem like stupid questions, hate having a wof/reg car that you hardly drive cause it drives like shit.

thanks heaps for your help this morning. i'll get straight onto it when i get free time next.

my carb only has two points of adjustment, just the throttle stop to adjust the idle and the volume control screw. i'll check the timing saturday night and report back. got work too soon to be getting oil and shit everywhere.

just thought i would ask this here, my manual states idle should be at 500-550??? i currently have it at 1000 as it seems to be the smoothest as at 800 it rocks the car a little and any lower car runs like a bag of shit. what would cause this? just 45+ year old engine i guess? everything ignition related has been replaced/upgraded.

Gapped them all at .032ish and car runs beautifully. idles smoother, drives smoother and no more gay jerkyness when you get back onto the gas after a gear change. now i can focus on driving it while saving for my weber rebuild. cheers.

chur. will see how that goes. got morning off to trying to get weekend maintenance out of the way so i can actually use the car. thanks again.

65 super minx. ngk bp5es plugs

hey guys just wondering what i should gap them to? my workshop manual states .025in. (.63mm.) but that is with the old points system. Should I crank it open to .035? Or leave it as stock? thanks. might be a obvious answer but just thought i would ask.

Thanks for the tips guys. Swapping carbs is the most expensive bit at this stage at rebuild + manifold + filter all adding to alot. slowly chipping at it with manifold ordered this week. Still have not checked the timing but will do it this sunday off. Who is the guy on the forum who can get cheap things from repco or supercheap? Im after a set of leads and plugs and im a jew.

Alright, little update. I have installed an electronic ignition kit and it seems to drive a bit nicer but I am still suffering from it dying every once and a while when I stop at the lights. Also when starting it when cold it sounds a bit like a rotor and behaves really shit but eventually gets to idling properly. Im going to find a dizzy cap, rotor and get a new set of plugs for it but other than that do I have to start looking at the carb? Would rather not start playing with the current carb as I have a 28/36 weber I need to get rebuilt and put on. I also dont have a timing light so do not know if that has anything to do with it.

I bought this late last year, Just got another WOF on it a couple of days ago. Euron8 came over and welded up a bit of rust on the pillars. Will update build thread when something interesting happens or I get a camera for some photos. Have ordered electronic ignition kit too. Got to put away some pennies so can get my 28/36 weber rebuilt then hopefully it will move a bit quicker as its so bloody slow. Its still matt black but with a cream bonnet now (havent painted it yet)

My distributor has 25D on it so I guess mines the 25D4 listed on that site? Sweet im going to try and order one.

Dear god thats ugly. Needs two less lights.

I think you may have solved my issue I put my new set of points in with a dab of grease. Didnt use the feeler gauges this time and just eye balled it about the width of a playing card. I did give the edge of the rotor and the inside of the dizzy cap a good clean with a bit of paper and now seems to work mint. How would I go about converting one of these to electronic dizzy? I see there is some on trademe but at 200+ thats half of what I paid for the car.

Yup - sure could be - by spare set of points do you mean a brand new set?PS- you lube the camlobe with a very small dab of grease - about half a raindrop size is almost a bit too much.. put some on the end of a flat blade screwdriver and transfer onto one of the lobes and then smear it around the 4 lobes of the points cam. Yes brand new set Pretty much have a spare of everything ignition related in the glove box, from coil to plugs. Learn something new everyday, should have got my google on before replacing them. I'll give that a try tomorrow when I can see what I am doing and report back! Thanks

Using a generator, works mint and battery is a big 750cca. First time it died I had to crank it for ages cause i forgot i had the choke right out and battery had lots of juice left.

I idle at about 1000 already, sometimes more sometimes a bit less depending on how the car whats to behave. I do not have a dwell meter but will throw my spare set of points at it and see if it makes a difference. I did not lube anything except give the face of the points a good clean. I did manage to drive around quite a fair bit before this started happening, probably 30 minutes. could it still be points?

I chucked 30 in it today so still half full. Fuel bowl in engine bay was still full when car died first time. Also pulled air filter off and there was fuel being squirted into the carb when i moved the linkage.

Hey guys sorted the wof on my super minx today but my car now has an annoying habbit of turning off when you get to the lights. Only happens sometimes too, few times it would idle mint as then at the next set of lights it would just die. If i rolled up to the lights keeping a foot on the gas it was fine. Tried having the choke out a bit to keep the revs up but that didnt seem to do anything. Where do I start? Only recent addons is new points and condenser but that was a while ago and car was fine.

Hey mate where are you located? I am after some spares for my super minx also.