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Compression fine Cars running alright again now, only on the single carby tho Took the leaf springs out and got them reset with a 2" drop.. happy with the $120 i spent on that, not happy about the $50 i got charged for the Nolathane bushes

Do they run like shit with the lights on? As in no power?

How low are those blocks? Look wayyy more than 2"

tested compression with my thumb, leads with multimeter, and spark by holding the plugs.. the ones in there and the spares had a farely weak spark, new plugs, fired basically first time. so its all sweet now they seemed fine and were sparking ok, but the new ones just ripped into it.. quality

Yeah. Id be doing that probably

Had a few problems as of late.. Car wont start with either single carb, or twins [On twins the 3rd and 4th cylinders were flooding, front 2 were fine.] On single carb, all 4 flood. The points i Have in currently are sweet, condensor is new, cap is new, and so is the rotor. So I have a bit of testing to do to get to the bottom of the problem Gonna be a looooong couple of weeks.. hopefully nothing too serious.. ie. Compression loss

Take either a template of the head incl all the holes for bolts studs and the exhaust and inlet ports, and the carb faces and how far apart u want them etc. to a engineer, and they will make u up something.. Im pretty sure it wouldnt be the only slant 4 2.3 with webers on it though.. somebody else would have dont it before, so theres either gotta be other manifolds or somebody who can make you one up

Mine didnt work. Factory sender is just the one sensor wire from the stock sensor, whereas autogauge sensor is made differently and needs to be grounded to work, cause the factory 1 is grounded on the head. Basically no it wont work/didnt for me but u might be lucky if u try it I have opted for just the autogauge one.. [cos my sender blade snapped and cbf soldering new one on

Im saying, the one with webers on it u got, may have come stock with Zeniths, but somebody has put Webers with custom mani on. Dont quote me on that cause i have no idea about vivas aside what anhonyb has told me.. But just a thought.. I found the same thing with some holley 300 or someting. turned out it was indeed custom mani

u bolts all lined up parallel and tightened the same and tight etc?

I cant theres nobody else home to turn ignition on while i hold the lead in safe place

Could have been put on a custom manifold? Workshop manuals are pretty on to it

and if the spark is poor, that means coil isnt going well or the leads are having a wee tanty?

Yeah they both had the plastic piece i looked for that. Got a few things to try i suppose. I have a feeling the cap or rotor is gone if it isnt the plugs

When the new points were in, and I opened up the gap, it sparked where the condensor and LT lead touch the points? But on the new points, they were in the EXACT same place and everything, but yet the spark was where it should be on the old ones? Maybe the new points were double earthed or some shit? Wouldnt that indicate that the rotor is ok? Or is it not meant to jump?

I have just had an idea based on information given to me. Apparently, a guy who owned a Hillman took it to a garage in Auckland, completely standard, but it had a couple gaskets missing off the fuel pump, so it was pumping around 14psi. (should be 2.5-3psi) So I may want to check that my fuel pump is at 2.5-3psi, cause that could be squirting way to much fuel in. Already checked the needle valve in the float bowl, that's free and fine. I'll try the coil thing, and check the rotor aswell like you suggested KK. If theres no fault, i'll move on to the fuel pump. Would i need like a pressure tester or something to test that \ how the fuck

Yeah i cleaned them with a wee bit of petrol and dried them

If you have the HT lead still attatched to the coil, but the other end off the dizzy, and u hold the "free" end about 5mm or something away from the block, and turn on the ignition circuit, it should create a blue spark between the block and the lead? That indicates that the fault would have to lie somewhere within the dizzy cap, rotor, carbon tip, or points possibly cause it would mean the coil is working

Both rotor and cap are brand new. Could test the rotor by that method ^ then if thats sweet, test cap by taking off coil lead from the dizzy, and hold it next to the block and see if that sparks, if it does, narrowed down to the cap, carbon point in the cap. Should be sweet though, its new?! Mind you, the points were too (which they have already sent me a free set)

New plugs and leads is the go for now. (plugs have only done about 100km though)

Checked leads on 20k on the multimeter. Lead 1 - (380mm) gave me 8.74 = 2300 ohms/100mm. Lead 3 - (280mm) gave me 6.14 = 2192.9 ohms/100mm. Lead 4 - (300mm) gave me 5.74 = 1913.3 ohms/100mm. Lead 2 - (280mm) gave me 5.78 = 2064.3 ohms/100mm. Coil lead - (270mm) gave me 6.28 = 2325.9 ohms/100mm. So based on this: The leads seem to be fine?

Yeah heard that one before. Looking for electric streaks or something huh? I have to get a battery for my multimeter first

If they're all the same.. should they have basically no resistance at all yeah?

Just with a random normal multimeter?

I changed the condensor when i put the other points in, same with rotor and cap. Three of the leads are about the same length, and 1 is a short one. But theres this shit on them, looks like white sorta stretch marks, thats why im thinking they could be fucked. (bent or something in the past??) they all have some white marking in at least one place. unless its the coil ht lead not doing its job?