JoKer

alrighty it was a bit of a Saga & I'm sure OS is sick of hearing about it (waasnt really much anyone could do without physically looking at it & I didn't help much)

we checked everthing else, fuel, diaphragms, sparks, wirings... then

On 19/07/2019 at 13:28, JoKer said:

see that wire #5?

I didn't have that (it never has)

car goes good now & may explain the dead resistors too

Alright "we" think we got it : for those following

Quote

  


Actual Wiring Diagram (I had to look at my security Cameras to see when I last had the Haynes in my hand... 2x Thursdays ago it turns out, Book was under seat of my Commy LOL)


  


had a mate looking her over, he says "hey you've not got that jumper #5"


  


makeshift Jumper, which I'll probably never upgrade


  

And I've driven my car to work (2.5km / 5 mins) for the first time in 4 months!

cant believe something simple, we've pulled fuel hoses off, checked Carb Diaphragms and traced wires, and all it "seemed to be" (we'll test drive around town for a few weeks first)

was one little Jumper that was never there : super odd!

painfully slow 'progress' (hope I'm not overlooking the obvious or ignoring the answer right in front of my face posted above somewhere)

1st start today went for a wee while then back to 4 second or so runs (havnt actually timed but its short & rev counter is 1st to drop same as in video clips above) before we touched anything

Got given this Diagram today (cant find my Manual for some reason now to confirm grr)

and I'm told its looking at the 5-pin plug like this

and with help 'discovered' coil was wired back to front? (-/+) not confident onthis 'point' but may explain dead resistors?

swapped & no different / improvement

anyway got 12v to the right places, (with resistor unplugged) then plugged in only getting 1V or so across the low side? (at both terminals)

there is a couple of 'free' wires hanging around which I'm not sure go where etcand not keen to "let the smoke out"

and yah, sorry I know its not east "to see from where you are" just documenting as we go, might help someone in future, no adjustment on the rotor that we can see and resistance on the induction sensor was 1k Ohm

diagram was not Avenger specific but is that an alarm bell?

did some module swapping

thought I had it : ran longer than usual (like 20 seconds or so) then did the die-ing thing

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbc-starts-stops-starts-up.964488/

Suggests coil : next thing to try i Guess

ran fuel line into a milk bottle has heaps & doesn't stop

had a look at the racecar setup : slightly different

thought about robbing that

both 'blown' resistors were OEM / 40 years old

but yep I'm wondering the same thing

I'll check alt (if i can in the short time it runs) Or remove & pop in a lathe etc see if we can get some figures

keen to have a good think & look before I go changing too much (can revert back to the Points Dizzy easliy enough but that not the "point" eh)

have a couple spare Modules will also try them (making sure to ground them)

will also check lights & stuff

everything was 'normal' before it Shut down on way to Palmy Meet

I'm not sure about anything that's why I havent touched it

basic history is I removed the Points & condensor unit & replaced it with the complete kit from @mark105's Dad

Quote

& have been running it for a few years now Fitted it Oct 2017

only had issues when it blew the 1st resistor block earlier this year (High Ohm side dead) this original Post / thread

then again recently and replaced with a new unit & since then not worked

@Avenga might be able to help, and have input on wether its a cert item or not to run Pins only and remove latch

Found a couple of Controllers to try / House stuff meant no time  in shed over weekend, though I did manageto gather a few photo's for more info

and as the Dizzy is one of these

I've been highly recomended not to try the 12v link as suggested above [something along the lines of frying inductor sensor pickup or Ignition module?

3 hours ago, Ghostchips said:

the way the tach' drops

yes that's always been the clue for me something electrickery isnt talking and it cant 'throw a code'

3 hours ago, Ghostchips said:

battery straight to the coil

@yeah yeah na just suggested that, will give it a go on weekend

Thanks for the replies guys (only just seen) they're $100 new?

couple of clips

1st at Idle

2nd givign it some

just odd

Fills a glass full of fuel pretty quick, I reckon its got heaps of gas, seems to just cut out in same time frame every time

5 or 6?

Left a trail

yep thanks came as a complete kit & was all swapped over

"was running when parked" nothing changed & sulking at moment, might try changing the CDI unit, same as one of these (not sure if 5 or 4 pin sorry) likely be 5 pin from research on the net (twin coil Ballast)

(have not been near car for a while nor will be till Monday ish

On 08/08/2019 at 09:17, Ghostchips said:

People drop them

yep, or 'store damage' get small dings or dents etc

oh yeah & these, I make these

they sometimes come back for repair with Price tags attached over $1100, I've made 18 in the last year alone, & they've been a NWC product since early 2000's... one of our Higher end Products

no advance plate, its a Electronic (with optical pickup) dizzy from a 78+Avenger

same as a Valiant / Chrysler setup

Well away no pics isnt handy I'll try do better next week (bit trickey from home pc, work easier)

how would I test / check that? given it runs for a bit & all i've changed is the resistor I keep coming back to that as the 'fault' but there's not much to go wrong there either 

it did get frikking hot when I left ign on testing yesterday & burnt myself on it

nah Electronic ign / doesnt have one, hah yeah scratching head at moment all I can put it down too is the resistor at moment, ran when 'parked' heaps fuel (pulled lined off today & such)

runs a chysler / Valiant 

Had the second hand Res Block fail while driving to Palmy Meet

Have replaced with a brand new unit

Now car only runs for 3 or 4 seconds then dies (seems same time limit weather Idling or reving

Appears Electrical ie not fuel related

Has anyone experienced something like this & got any tips?

Ok Bolted / Plugged it in and car runs for about 3 seconds and dies, no matter how many revs it gets 

electrical seems to cut out

odd

wonder how many $15 Parts there are that can stop a car....

Got 2x CBR43's, just in case & you know, that will mean I will NEVER need the second one...

under $30 from my local parts store vs $20 ea from Trademe

Diagram from the 'Haynes' and with the Multi-meter I'm recording 2~ Ohm & 5~ Ohm

will that be an issue, or have I got the wrong units?

appears to be the only part 'new' available

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/partsearch?query=Fuelmiser Ballast &type=products

it would be a shame to pop it in & find the "next" vulnerability after-all!

there's not specs on these 

here : https://shopping.rewardia.com.au/Ignition_System_Ballast_Resistor_Fuelmiser_CBR41?pk=zm&pi=1330129663

and an Ebay advert for the above (Mopar Discontinued) Part# P4529795 says

Quote

1.2 OHMS PRIMARY

5.0 OHMS SECONDARY/AUXILLIARY

SUITS VALIANT ALL MODELS

WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION

REPLACES OEM 3656199 / 3874767 

there's also a lot of new users here possibly not on the group chat too

bit more bumpage / in your face & people might remember too

@Matt350

It is tonight

Deets: 

@_Matt dont forget to bump it on here LOL

32 minutes ago, TimShadboltfan27 said:

camping

Come Back to Camp Rangi woods

or there's a neat wee spot down @ the river @ Mangaweka next to an old wooden bridge

and Napier Taihape Road also next to an old wooden bridge (old man used to like going camping where he could Fly-fish)

hop on www.willtheyfit.com

for wheel sizes & correcting stuff