Archetype

I've got a vector outline that I created in InDesign, and I need to convert it to a dxf or dwg file. Can anyone point me in the right direction, or convert the file for me? I supply it as a vector EPS, AI, PDF, etc.

No, but there may be some further changes within the series, so there might be more than just RX-7s racing.

Yep, pretty much. The Mazda Pro7 Racing Series are/were (?) looking at introducing a middle class, based on the Series 6 RX-7s. The reasoning behind it is that the Pro7 Plus cars can be fairly expensive to build, which isn't really in line with the original Pro7 formula. So this new class is a simplified version of the Pro7 Plus RX-7s - allowing new drivers like me to get involved, which means more cars on the track. I know I wouldn't have considered building a Pro7 car if it wasn't for this new class. Some differences in specifications include being able to use the factory suspension, front bumper and rear wing. The details haven't been finalised yet, and I wonder if instead of creating a new sub-class, perhaps the rules of Pro7 Plus will just become a bit more relaxed. I kind of liked the idea of having a new class because it meant that I had a chance of being able to win races (only in my class, of course). But if it doesn't happen that way, I guess it just means that I'll be at the back of the pack all the time. I suppose it doesn't matter too much though, as I will need plenty of practice before I become competitive with the other guys, and my car will most likely evolve into a Pro7 Plus car eventually any way.

Cool, did you buy Stu's old car?

Did you manage to find someone in Hamilton to do the re-wiring? I noticed you chuck a post up in spam but don't follow enough to see whether anyone replied. Might be worth chucking a thread up if you haven't already.I'm sure there have been a couple of guys from Auckland advertising similar services over the last year or two. They probably travel for the right money. I'm keen to do my car at some stage. I imagine a stripped out race loom with base functions would sell quite well. I've hunted for something like that but was surprised to turn up no results. Is there such a thing? Just for the vehicle body I mean, not engine loom. Yeah, I got a pm from a guy who suggested an alternative electricial, so I've been in touch. I'm giving the first guy a couple more days to do something before I decide to take it elsewhere. It's so frustrating having the car sitting here doing nothing at the moment, as this isn't much more that I can do until the wiring is done. It's another one of these annoying situations where it's hard to define when to move on to other options, and I hate having to wait around on other people who can't communicate effectively.

I've taken all the wiring out of the car and I'm re-doing the whole lot, so there should be a bit of room with the new loom. The total mass of the factory loom is huge!

Nope. Do you need some?

Yep, seats are gone.

Hey Markku, I've got a pretty busy week ahead of me, but you can swing by some time next week if you like? I just caught up on your Trueno thread - looks like you've been getting a bit of racing action. Did you bring the Trueno up with you?

I see plenty of vans like mine being used for race car tow vehicles at Hampton Downs, etc (and at the Maramarua Rally yesterday). The Lawtons have been using their Super Custom to tow their drag car from Paraparaumu to Meremere for years too. I've been towing the car to a few places lately and it handles it really well. Being a Super Custom, it would have a bit more weight to it compared to an empty commercial van.

Thanks Joe. The PPF is the same, and it's all sorted now. From memory, the only thing I needed to modify during the auto to manual conversion was the flange on the diff housing.

It may appear that way, but don't beat yourself up over it. People that I've seen who have bought someone else's race car have always found a seemingly endless trail of costly problems. Much like building your own car I guess, but at least its your own car. If it was $10k with a factory 13B minus T it would be worth it, but not as is I reckon, as it puts you out of the class in 2013 and possibly even 2012. That's true. At least I know the build history of my car, and there are no areas of the car that will cause any problems due to shoddy workmanship. So far the car has worked out exactly how I wanted it, other than a little problem with the roll cage.

Nah - all Pro7 Plus cars have to use the housings and plates from the FD RX-7. The RX-8 and NA Series 5 rotors were allowed a couple of years ago, but they made a significant power difference and were banned to keep things level for everyone. There's an ex-Pro7 car on Trade Me at the moment that still has the NA Series 5 rotors in it: To encourage participation numbers, the latest Pro7 rules allow any engines that were built with RX-8 rotors before June 2011 to race in the 2012/2013 season. Not sure where that leaves the Series 5 non-turbo rotors though. That car above would be a really good buy for anyone wanting to get into Pro7s. It may have been cheaper and easier for me to buy that, rather than building my own.

Not a hell of a lot at all really. Remove the turbos/intercooler and replace with N/A exhaust (the design is free). All internal parts are factory and non-modified (no porting allowed), and we all run Link G4 computers. So that just leaves the basics - the exhaust, the air intake, and a few small gains here and there by getting rid of stuff like the power steering, etc.

The first round of the Pro7 Series is coming up quickly, but I'm getting there: Blog post relating to the pictures above. Latest blog post.

Hey, just found your build thread for this. We bought our van off your Mini's previous owner's family, and I had a look at the mini up close while I was there. I quite like the matt black and wheel combo on your car. 15x8s on a Mini is huge!

Continuing with my delayed coverage of the build progress, here are some pictures of some more shiny new parts. Click here to read about it on my blog. Things are going pretty well at the moment, despite the lack of updates on the actual car. I'm a bit embarrassed at the state of it, looks wise, but I'll get some better pics up soon.

Yeah, I think I might seek professional help.

Ok, so I've just come across this thread and I haven't read it yet - but I'll start at the beginning to see if my questions have been covered already. I need to paint the interior of the RX-7 now, and I have no knowledge or experience with painting really. It's completely stripped on the inside, and I want it all to be silver (floor, roof, cage, etc). What gear do I need? What type of paint do I need? I should be able to borrow most of the gear that I think I need, but should I just fork out some $$$ and get someone else to do it since it's just a one off? Plus I want it to be done well, and I'm worried that I'll fuck it up.

That engine bay looks really tidy. Only 70,000km - good deal.

Yep, if I can have a drive of your Mustang.

A couple more pics from a while ago: Words here: http://www.kiwimotoring.com/blog/post/car-build-pro7-mazda-rx-7-seat-mounts

Hell yeah - they'll go real well with the matt black paint job the van is getting.

Finally got ourselves a tow vehicle, which will also double as a promo vehicle once I've signwritten it, as well as Kayte's daily, and a campervan when we go away. We bought it off Trade Me without actually seeing it in person. I'm not too happy with the condition of the interior or exterior, or some of the details that were left out of the auction description. I guess that's the risk you take when you place a bid without looking at it in person first though. It looks a lot better in this photo compared to real life, but it'll scrub up ok with a bit of work:

Thanks for that. I was trying to picture which RX-3 it was that beat the GT-R Skylines and I was thinking of another one. Yeah, 15 doesn't really do it for me. Some pictures from the latest blog post: Words: http://www.kiwimotoring.com/blog/post/car-build-pro7-mazda-rx-7-lets-go-shopping