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That's what I was assuming. Its from a 2wd L200. Things should swap over easy peasy right? (if required)

Hey all, L200 4g63; is it the same as a L300 4g63/ will it bolt in? Apparently sumps and wiring may be different, can someone confirm please? I've purchased another 4g63 carby engine from a L200, I havn't removed the engine from my L300 yet to check any differences so thought I would ask on here.

SO my diagram is all good? I had major brain fade at first. Heater won't be on all the time anyhow, just more so to demist windscreen and to warm the mrs up when she moans that its too cold.

Like this: http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/4bd7b4130 ... View/P7671 ??? or http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID= ... rm=KEYWORD

Contacts:12V DC 16A, Lamp:12V, Is this one : http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/4bd7b4130 ... View/P7666

I have a 3 prong switch with a LED that lights up in it (don't really want LED to operate) and I simply want to wire my heater fan directly to the battery (i have a fuse etc) so get it to work. Is this correct:?

Hey all, How does the motor in an L300 van get removed? From dropping crossmember or does it need to be lifted out of the cab some how? Cheers

fuel: So will FWD & 4WD 4g series of engine fit into an l300 without mounting issues?

I'm about to do this. Currently sourcing a complete engine, loom, ecu etc. I'm not entirely sure about the conversion so as much information as possible would be excellent for me to work from. I'm a bit vague regarding using a fwd engine. Is this easy? Mounts will be fit into the l300 ok etc? I see the inlet manifold and turbo may face the wrong way, therefore what needs to be done regarding this? Thanks.

Thought I'd copy/write this up. Courtesy of NGK FAQs - Spark Plugs Q: How do I "read" a spark plug? A: Being able to "read" a spark plug can be a valuable tuning aid. By examining the insulator firing nose color, an experienced engine tuner can determine a great deal about the engine's overall operating condition. In general, a light tan/gray color tells you that the spark plug is operating at optimum temperature and that the engine is in good condition. Dark coloring, such as heavy black wet or dry deposits can indicate an overly-rich condition, too cold a heat range spark plug, a possible vacuum leak, low compression, overly retarded timing or too large a plug gap. If the deposits are wet, it can be an indication of a breached head gasket, poor oil control from ring or valvetrain problems or an extremely rich condition - depending on the nature of the liquid present at the firing tip. Signs of fouling or excessive heat must be traced quickly to prevent further deterioration of performance and possible engine damage. Normal Condition An engine's condition can be judged by the appearance of the spark plug's firing end. If the firing end of a spark plug is brown or light gray, the condition can be judged to be good and the spark plug is functioning optimally. Dry and Wet Fouling Although there are many different cases, if the insulation resistance between the center electrode and the shell is over 10 ohms, the engine can be started normally. If the insulation resistance drops to 0 ohms, the firing end is fouled by either wet or dry carbon. Overheating When a spark plug overheats, deposits that have accumulated on the insulator tip melt and give the insulator tip a glazed or glossy appearance. Depostis The accumulation of deposits on the firing end is influenced by oil leakage, fuel quality and the engine's operating duration. Lead Fouling Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This can not be detected by a resitsance tester at room temperature. Lead compounds combine at different temperatures. Those formed at 370-470°C (700-790°F) having the greatest influence on lead resistance. Breakage Breakage is usually caused by thermal expansion and thermal shock due to sudden heating or cooling. Normal Life A worn spark plug not only wastes fuel but also strains the whole ignition system because the expanded gap (due to erosion) requires higher voltages. Normal rates of gap growth are as follows: Four Stroke Engines: 0.01~0.02 mm/1,000 km (0.00063~0.000126 inches/1,000 miles) Two Stroke Engines: 0.02~0.04 mm/1,000 km (0.000126~0.00252 inches/1,000 miles) Abnormal Erosion Abnormal electrode erosion is caused by the effects of corrosion, oxidation and reaction with lead - all resulting in abnormal gap growth. Melting Melting is caused by overheating. Mostly, the electrode surface is rather lustrous and uneven. The melting point of nickel alloy is 1,200~1,300°C (2,200~2,400°F) Erosion, Corrosion and Oxidation The material of the electrodes has oxidized, and when the oxidation is heavy it will be green on the surface. The surface of the electrodes are also fretted and rough. Lead Erosion Lead erosion is caused by lead compounds in the gasoline which react chemically with the material of the electrodes (nickel alloy) as high temperatures; crystal of nickel alloy fall off because of the lead compounds permeating and seperating the grain boundary of the nickel alloy. Typical lead erosion causes the surface of the ground electrode to become thinner, and the tip of the electrode looks as if it has been chipped.

Does it have a L24E or is it carby?

How the hell does higher compression where the bearings out quicker.... I'm not doubting you, i'm just curious.

Have txt him. How does it cause big end bearing damage by using a skimmed head? I've had heads skimmed on old L20ETs and never had a problem with bearings...

Yes, took rad cap off and turned her over with radiator full. Water/antifreeze shoots out of radiator during cranking, as soon as I put the rad cap back on and crank her over all of the water from the radiator gets forces into the overflow bottle and out the drain tube when i'm cranking her over. I aware that I need the find the solution as to why she overheated in the first place. What steps should I take exactly (have written a plan up below), sound ok? I have taken all into account what you guys are saying regarding to find out why it overheated in the first place. • Compression test motor. • K-T test motor (seems like a waste buying the test as I’m very positive the H/G is blown). • Perform leak down test on motor. (don't have a leak down tester at home, not sure if I need to do this. But i'm worried air is getting in from somewhere) • Rectify any leaks • Remove radiator and get professionally cleaned. • Remove required components to check water pump. • Remove and test thermostat. • Remove required components to remove head. • Purchase recond head from caboonatlarge “$200. rebuilt head, been cheaked and cleaned up, planed, new valve guide seals, head gasket set and even had the valve clearance done” • Install recond head and all other components. • Finished

Im fairly sure the head gasket has blown. Where do i get a k-t test? I havnt had much luck in Nelson....

I was being cheap, and being cheap = skipping major things. I didn't get the head crack tested. I did check to ensure it was straight though, and it was. I have never had a block crack tested.... I see a brand new 4g63 head on trademe for $400, is it worth it?

Ok, I refilled the radiator and attempted to start her up. I did not put the radiator cap on, and when turning the motor over water/coolant was being propelled out somehow. Like it was under pressure.... What the fuc*...? Cracked head or block i'm assuming???

Not sure yet. Will check it out. You don't happen to have a head you could send me?

I had recently changed head gasket, water pump and belts on my L300. It's overheated again...*sigh*. What do I do with it? Any ideas? Realistically....

Ok. Why do you think that? I do have a spare metal intake pipe from the civic i'm wrecking, i may be able to adapt that on her.

So is this correct?

Hey guys, Anyone able to enlighten me a little bit with adding a poddy to my L300? Can I simply remove the air filter box and attach a pod filter to the rubber intake pipe goign to the carby? Cheers.

Hey all. Going to pull the engine analyzer out of the container later. Anyone know what screw is the Mixture screw on a Mitsi L300 4g63 Caby?

That or Royal Purple http://www.royalpurple.com/manual-trans ... fluid.html http://www.royalpurple.com/gear-oil.html

Hey all, My Suzuki fa50 moped needs a new throttle cable. I have the new replacement cable, but having a week bit of trouble getting the old one out of the carby. There is a gold colored sleeve that I need to get out, does this come out easily? DO i need to drop the engine and remove the carburetor to get this piece out so i can remove the old throttle cable? Cheers