Jeffs_Emporium

Carb manifold got the slim down from Burr engineering Fitted this, using 3 studs and 4 bolts. Then have to wind in the top studs for carbs swing them up from underneath and wind the bottom studs in once in place. I've given myself about 20mm clearance to the side of engine bay and the fuel pump fits in nicely next to the rear carb But the front carb is hitting the seat

I purchased a new balljoint for gearbox end for mine before realizing I didn't need it

I'm setting up my linkages in my liteace after g52 swap and they feel shithouse no matter where I adjust them to. I guess oil in box and clutch hooked up might change things

Having some roll centre adjusters machined for my gx61. Do they need a central locating ring like this Or are these fine Is there a maximum thickness Im allowed also. Here is the front suspension design with the steering arm sandwhiched between stub axle and ball joint

In the attempts to try get this running better I've tracked down some 270cc rb20det injectors. These have the same high impedance as my gen 2 1ggeu 185cc injectors and will be getting sent away today to get serviced and flow tested prior to installation. The only thing that isn't plug and play is the offset location of the top keyway doesn't match the centred toyota plugs. I'll be filing them off The idea is that I'll be able to do fine tuning with the graphic control computer. Also looking to decrease the supercharger pulley size eventually an have been told that rb26dett and gtir sr20det injectors are the high impedance same design and 440cc so there's room for further improvement. I've also tracked down this hks electronic governor control that can advance/retard spark based on rpm and map sensor which I'm looking forward to playing around with. As you might tell I've developed a bit of an obsession with this hks gear over the past year. So much so that I've decided to start a small online business via Instagram @jeffsemporium sharing what I've learnt from countless old forums and magazine articles and reconnecting these parts with the correct vehicles since 90% are advertised incorrectly. I'll also be selling other japanese old tech from the 80s, magazines and the odd fashion accessory

Test fit speakers I pinched from the van

One of the rear speakers stopped working a while back, gutted because they had a really decent sound to them. Time to address this burnt to shit parcel tray. Carpet is supposed to be a burgundy colour Where is the best place to acquire a peice of auto carpet for this and what adhesives would you use? I've tried the ados f2 and the spray and had zero luck with my van hoodlining and ended up resorting to using construction adhesive

Tracked down a set of 5 earlier centre caps.

Pulled the vinyl out yesterday to make sure there isn't any gnarly rust and give it all a good clean out Tempted to pull up the sound deadening to rust proof the lot while I'm here. Would really like to replace vinyl with carpet so it isn't so peasant spec as well. It looks like a pretty basic mold to home spec something up.

Clutch line and fittings has shown up from England and clutch slave from rockauto arrived also, just need to track down a rubber hose to join the two. Need to pull finger on this before we get out of level 4 lockdown really. I think I have mostly all I need to finalize wiring aside from some heat shrink and heat resistant tapes from China

I'm not really into lifted mud trucks but this thing is really cool!

Lots of dents in the whole lower section. Mostly 5mm filler 10mm some spots. It's been flapped to bare steel with filler straight over.

$1600 for a new tailgate is sounding good. Cursed myself

There's a 60mm diameter also

Something like this suitable for 4age mounting?

Did some panelbeating to the second skin on engine cover and managed to get it to fit with a few mm clearance. Pretty confident I can get a bit more with a rubber change

I did look into whether the engine covers differ for the different engine (y series stands straight up as opposed to the slanted 5k) but part numbers are the same for both chassis. Part number does differ for floor shift vs column however so could look into that to see if it bulges higher or not.

Also managed to track down the correct twincam 24 boot badge which needs a bit of a restore before installing

I also had a friend redesign the innovate wideband gauge face to match my hks boost gauge and have collected a few more hks accessories which I want to make a glove box install of

I purchased a spare 3rd gen 1gge around a month ago as well which is apparently a runner. Had an adapter machined up to be able to fit a 1jzgte forward facing plenum for this. I'm not actually sure what my plan is for this (I have the cast hks turbo manifold still) but I liked the idea of deleting the ugly cross over pipe.

Haven't had a whole lot of interest in this lately to be honest. It's been on axles stands for atleast a month due to me absolutely mangling the rear fuel hardline to rubber line connection it's had an intermittent fuel leak for a while where it drips then magically fixes itself and then leaks again. At some point someone had replaced the fuel pump which obviously didn't have the right thread to fit original banjo bolt into so they sliced the rear hose in half and fitted a barb joiner and then just slipped pump end over threaded section. Trying to fix this I undid it at pump end and went to undo flare nut on hardline where it went loose for 3 or so turns then just fully locked up seized....

Is there a minimum clearance I would need from timing cover to seat cover?

I did look for an off the shelf shortened and winged sump and pickup as I read they have ground clearance issues putting 4age into the lotus 7 kit cars but couldn't find anything. It's a mater of the least amount of work which is modding seat rather than new mounts and sump/pickup. I could cut a slot the running same direction as timing cover and still be atleast 100mm away from seatbelt mount and seat rail which is the only mounting on left side of drivers seat? There's an additional skin below which has a bulge in exactly the wrong place which isn't helpful

Second half which seals down onto it