flyingbrick

Also just read that the surface left can be quite porus because of how it so selectively removes the oxide. So there's lots of surface area So it will rust fast.

Yeah I don't think there is any harm reusing that solution at all! It's also relatively non toxic so you can tip it anywhere ya want. The above tide rust shows its effect pretty well aye! Also.. definitely seal it mate. I'm positive that the tank would had a zinc coating from the factory (that electro galvanized stuff that new panel steel has) Without it I doubt things would stay nice long You could try plating the insides with zinc yourself? (I have no idea on the process)

You would only have to expand like a 10mm lip for a tiny overlap.. not like an exhaust hehe. Dont use it for tacking up without checking that someone can weld through it haha. It might be a total bastard PS you are doing well! I'm talking shit but in reality what you have done is A+ okay

Keep practicing :-D. You may have discovered why everyone doesn't braze their aluminium intake pipework tho, haha. I must buy one of those expander sets- would be great for stuff like this. If there was an overlap itd be easy because the gap would suck it in like solder

You could use an exhaust expander to make a small slip joint on ya piping..Slide them together like 5mm and braze. Would be STRONG

Oi get out of bed and tell us how it went

Awesome! Can't wait to see the result. Be a bit careful tomorrow because you may get pockets of hydrogen gas inside the tank

Assuming you pull it out once the rust has gone it shouldn't remove any non rusty material. According to the internet it will target rusty stuff as their bonds are weaker.. the pits were probably there before but you just couldn't see them as they were full of rust. Also, I believe it will strip any zinc or other rust prevention coatings from the parent metal- this may be the green sludge you have had accumulate. When the sacrificial piece gets covered in shit and rusty you need to drag it out and scrape the shit off into ya garden or whatever. For best results you need clean steel there. Now.. do ya tank! Many excite!

Yeah

Derust one part like this and you will be searching for more bits to do....Such fun

Oh man, getting good.

I bet you could use electrolysis! Fill it will water and tip it around so that there's no air and water fills it entirely, chuck in some washing soda, make the tank your cathode (negative) and suspend a steel anode (positive) carefully down the filler (it can't touch the tank) Double check the anode cathode thing so you don't make problems worse...But this should strip it to bare steel while you do NOTHING OH and use a laptop PSU or battery charger for juice. It's silent, easy, cheap and most importantly.. requires SFA actual manual labour

Hahaha.

What do you think it's worth?

I wonder what amps they can output for cranking .. anyway, cheers!

There's proably a million reasons why this wouldn't work, but, could you bore/skim/drill/tap around that 02 sensor and bolt the waste gate on there? I haven't put much brain power into this but it seems like an easy solution (if you have a mill lol)

I'm so confused....Is that the motor you are using? Not the one with red valve cover? What's the hole in top of manifold? Waste gate? So.many questions lol

Awesome! Have been googling stuff like this recently (because for some reason I never do things the easy way) Can ya tell me what they are?

Wait a minute.. do you have two batteries in there?

There's a full glass body on FB ..I was trying to get the doors off him but he wasn't keen. Still, for $1600 it's a bargain (if you can be bothered trying to get the cab legal..Would need lots of steel I imagine)..Actually even if ya biff the cabin- for the doors and one piece front it's still cheap I hear there were 20 made in NZ, the one on Faceballs is FG cabin, FG doors and one piece FG front (I can't work out if that is cool or just a pain in the ass)

Not any different to the many glass body rods that are kicking round.

What is the story with fiberglass doors on a vehicle like the HQ? Do you have to frame out the guts? (Simple bar work between hinges and door latch? What's the minimum requirements?)

The rear cab mounts/ front deck mount things had rotted through all along where they were welded to the chassis. Various patches had already been done and the only option was complete replacement. (Lol..Cat added one extra brown hole to this photo.) Probably mentioned these heaps but had them laser cut out of 3mm steel (significantly thicker than factory) and then folded at work during smoko. I cut the old mount off on one side and used it as a template to mark cut and fold lines on my new pieces. Have acquired a TIG welder to use at home. The GOOD body guys use Tig to weld up their panel steel- the benefit being far less material to clean up and a much softer weld that you can hammer (I'm told MIG will crack) The professionals don't even use filler wire- their gaps are so minimal that they can fuse the panels together and planish the seam out so that virtually no grinding is needed! I'm nowhere near that skill level but made my first decent part for the driver's side patch that I stuffed up earlier. This part is a front corner and it is a mirror image of the factory floor on the passenger side (I have nothing on the driver's side left to copy) As I don't have one of those fancy contour tools I used very low tensile bent wire (I think it's gas welding filler wire) to transfer and check shapes.

Gah interesting to hear that.

I get what ur saying. I LOVE retrofitting lipos into shit and do it wherever possible (I had an RC controller that I pulled to bits and fitted a lipo into.. I think I charged it twice in a year, was brilliant, and a 12v floodlamp that I put a big lipo pack onto) You need to make sure things are completely foolproof and easy though. You don't want to accidently plug a lipo pack into a nicad charger With that said- I use a hobby type digital charger with my nicad DeWalt packs (because my charger didn't work on our 240v mains) and don't have any issues.. smash some alligator clips onto the terminals and just press go- the bonus is that I get to see exactly how much juice is going into the cell. You'd probably want to open each tool and wire in a low voltage alarm so you don't bugger the cells but they are cheap and easy.