Vintage Grumble

Cheers guys, I just want to remove sound deadening from a car, guess I would need a couple of boxes full? Better find me a chilly bin. Will refrain from blowing things up also (as hard as that will be)

Where would I get my hands on some dry ice? Cheers.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=24193 Shit me.

I wee'd a little im so excited, cant wait to see what it looks/skids like.

Might be, wouldnt hurt to have spares, depends on price I guess, as im pretty broke due to this car

Had a go at this the other day, got my 2.8L turbo diesel panel straightener, and chained it to the front, gave it a yank here and there and got most of it pretty straight, only thing that went wrong (apart from snapping a G-clamp and several chains) was at one point the chain sort of ripped through the steel I was pulling on, but should be able to weld it together/patch it up. And the chain flung back and put a tiny hole in the radiator, which is being fixed at the mo, only $40 to fix, so not to bad. Also picked up a gaurd & bonnet from local wrecker for $80, they are a bit ratty, but will most likely get rattier any ways. And my $35 light showed up also. So far this has cost me $605, and once put back together should get a WOF (Dude put in a new drivers side seatbelt/front engine mount/front brake pads/two tires/new sway bar link, just before he crashed it to get a WOF) Should be a bit of fun relatively cheaply.

Cheers, yeh tires have made it look a lot better, only down side is they have a gay logo on the other side, may have to sand and paint that patch? And I was thinking about brazing the frame together, to give it that OS look? As it will only have a light/semi rust paint job any way, golden joins may look chur? Hopefully when I get back to work the coupling will have been done, and I can get stuck into it, if works not to busy.

I guess on my 4age the gain in throttle response is more a result of going from 10:1 to 12.5:1 comp ratio, rather than the quads. (cant be weight of internals in my case, as mine got a fair bit heavier) Like you say, I guess power gain depends on how crap your original intake is to start with.

My silver top quads are perfectly round both ends? Would quads be a waste of time on a slow reving motor? I was under the impression you dont gain piss all power, just makes the motor more responsive?

^ Yeh, that dude knows how to spend money, I hear the car will be racing again very soon. A local chap is making a space framed 350Z twin turbo to try beat it, will be around 7/800hp, got a lot of fancy shit in it. Also, Mr BigDave, are these cars loose as shit in the rear/always trying to wrap you round trees? Beautiful car by the way, love the unigue designs of these beasts.

Yeh, if they are 3 inch/ones with expiry dates, you have to have cage/log book and so on, but you are able to have club sport spec ones (no exp date/2" wide/std buckle) in there along with the std belts. I have 2 inch club sport ones with no expiry dates on them, and have them mounted at the factory seat belt anchor points (under rear seat and so on) but it is illegal to use them while on the road (so I was told by WOF man)

Was hoping to have this going by now, but waiting on a mate to bore the new larger coupling out, going to try an interference fit. Hopefully this coupling can handle the immense power! The only other things ive got done is fit the new tires, pretty happy with them, they look a lot more motorbikish due to their size, and slapped some handle bars on, will most likely make some new ones, that are more "U" shaped/uprite later on. Also slapped a mud gaurd on the back, it will end up a bit shorter then in the pic,

I just went to have a yarn with my lax WOF guy, turns out hes no longer in business So I went to see back up WOF guy, whos normally a bit strict, and he said its sweet as to have no back seats/belts? Said he'll give me a WOF as long as its all gone, said if you have seats, you have to have belts and vise-versa, and that theres nothing in the rule book about having to have them in there, he'll just make a note in the system that they are gone.

The car im wanting to remove the seats/belts in is a 92

So you didnt need a cert, just changed the info on the reg?

Ok, so it sounds like there are rules, but some WOF guys dont follow them? My WOF dude is pretty lax, i'll go ask him about it, Cheers.

Sounds fucking tops, likey.

I suck at internets, cant find anything regarding rear seat and belt removals. What I want to know is do you have to get a cert to obtain a WOF with rear seats and belts removed? I had a crazy feeling back in the day you could do this and still get WOF's if you permanently coverd/block up the seat belt mounting points? Can anyone show me/tell me the rules regarding this kinda shit? Would prefer to ditch rear gear so I dont have to stick it back in to get WOF's. Any help/info would be tumeke.

If you happen to see/talk to him, could you hit him up for me? they dont have to be mint. Chur. Yeh, chassis is def OK, didnt get touched. And that is true about measurements, also it doesn't need to be perfect, aslong as it fits back togeather/gets WOF.

I'd like to, but i'd have to move the seat back close to a foot, kinda to tall, legs end up on mean angles, meaning I cant twist them round enuf to do it properly. They can be setup neutral no problem! don't lower it lots without fixing the roll centers or it will be a dog! I had a 101 trueno about 8 years ago, and all it had suspension wise was dobi springs, handled really well, and interestingly when pushed it oversteerd. Will be intersting to see what this ones like on the track. Had a quick look at this on the weekend, pulled off a few bits to get a good look at the damage, im starting to think I wont even have to replace the radiator support, as I dont think it counts as structural? Will just need to take to car with a slide hammer and give it the bash with hammers/dollies. Anyone know of a manual for these that has all the point to point measurments? Some pic's, Have started making a pile of crap I dont need for a WOF/making car lighter, like the air con/side skirts/carpet/boot liners and so on. Am happy the radiator is fine, and none of the wiring got mashed. It wouldnt jump start when I went to look at it, must have been a combo of shit leads and a dead battery. Slapped another battery in it, and jumped it with good leads, fired up first pop, motor sounds sweet, makes bugger all silver top pulley noise, which is nice, as they can sound like diesels. Will go visit the local wrecker and see what panels I can get soon. Only other thing I need to do really is new CV boots all round. Dude I got it off spent $600 on WOF items 3 days before he stacked it, so shouldnt need much else for legalness.

Yeh, im looking foward to having a FWD understeer party on the track! Also can now go in gravel club events. As for open quads, I happen to have a link laying around that will run this, it features in my plans.

Got a slightly crashed AE101 Trueno Sprinter off TM, damage is fairly minimal, got it for $450, which I dont think is toooo bad. To rebuild I will need LH gaurd/bonnet/radiator support panel. (If anyone knows of someone wanting to get rid of said parts im keen) Have already got the head light for $35 off trademe, bumper is saveable, and luckly the impact was above the chassis rail, so car seems to be pretty straight, couldnt find any cracks or wrinkles around strut tower and so on. Its fairly standard apart from homo spec muffler, and king springs. Plan is to rebuild it cheaply and get it legal, so me and the wife can use it for track days/dual sprints/motokhana's and the like, will one day end up a full on track car when funds allow.

Sweet, have instructed him to find a pump with cradle. I had to do this to my 86, when the pump gave up, put a silver top spec pump in there, was a lot smaller then the old pump, so cut and joined cradle, even had the correct plug, so didnt have to have any joined wires in the tank. Was a cunt to do on a AE70, only one hole in tank, and it was tiny, had to shave the hole a bit bigger, and find a tiny pump.

I dont know piss all about cressy's, didnt realise there was injected models, hopefully there is a second hatch with a decent sized opening in the tank, would make life much easier. The baffling may be a problem, as every time ive driven that car its had no gas in it, will have to look into foam as you say, doubt I will be able to get anything else in there. As for the pump, what sort of intank pump should we go for? I guess a factory soarer pump from a 1UZ/1JZ would be the go, If i could get the whole cradle from one, would make shit easy.

Looking at putting an intank pump in a cressy, seeing as they came out carbed, im guessing they only have the one hatch/lid in the tank? for the gauge/breather/outlet? Anyone put an intank pump in one of these? How big is the hole/what sort of pump will fit in there? (need to run a 1uz) Thinking of doing the old hang it off the gauge sender cradle job, as im not to keen to cut holes in the tank. I'll have to have a nose for inspection holes in the boot/under the seat before I drop the tank. Any help or information would be great.