Vintage Grumble

You fucking beauty! Cheers man, owe ya big time.

Yeh I will pay him directly, I was wanting your details so I could make it worth your while if ya know what I mean.

You're a bloody rippa, will give you info as it comes to hand. PM me bank details and i'll sort you out chap.

Were still there, so have purchased them, but just realised they are in Porirua, anyone live anywhere near there? didnt realise its quite a way out of welly

You chaps are truely chursome, I shall go to TM and see if they are still there. xoxox.

Hello, if I were to purchase a set of wheels in the welly area, would some lovely person be able to collect them for me, and store for a short period of time until I can sort out getting them back here? I can pay in cash/beer/hugs/dutch rudders/reach arounds/french tickles/girly giggles and pie + coke combos. Love, Thomas.

^ Yeh, this is the reason why its not really an option. Also dont really want to cut/weld anything, really dont want to have to get a cert. Mr Yak, thanks for the info, but what are my chances of finding one of these axles along with the shock mounts/spring clamps? I would also have to find out if the stub/brake flanges are the same. But if it was basiclly a direct bolt in, it probably is the best option. Mr Durtay, the shocks are tiny, maybe 30mm across, and 400mm long? They dont seem to do anything at the moment. Also, regarding camber, i'd just bend the axle in a press if I wanted camber.

Mr KK, thank you for the info. I have some lovely cell ph pics below for ya! Mr Mikuni, you raise some valid points, and yes, my set up is exactly the same as Simons. In the below pic, you can see the big bump stop bit that hangs down from the chassis, when on the ground, the gap between this and the top of the spring is 130mm. The thickness of the axle and spring seat is 65mm, so when fitted upside down there will be 65mm clearance between the top of the axle and the chassis/bump stop thing. Regarding the angle of the shock, as you can see in the below pic, it wont change much, but the shock will be much more compressed (will have to see how short the shocks can go/they are stuffed anyways, will have to replace them) This pic shows the offset of the stub to the axle, from the top of the spring seat to the centre of the stub is 20mm, so the stub centre is 20mm below the spring, so when upside down it will be 20mm above the spring, and the spring is 10mm thick, soooo by turning the axle over, it will lower the car 50mm. So yeh, the clearance between the top of the axle and the bump stop/chassis will only be 65mm (with no rubber stop), which is a bit tight, but could add another spring to harden it up/less movement/less bottoming out. So i'd say lowering it 50mm is about the maximum I could go, but I think that may work out ok, the top of the tire will end up about 5mm below the gaurd lip, these cars really were not designed to be slammed, haha.

Yeh, just had a look at mine IRL, if you turn it upside down (so spring seat now faces down, and shock mounts face forward) then spin it 180 deg (so shock mounts now face backwards) the only thing you would have to re-do is the brake lines and brake mounts on the axle (no matter which way I do it, the brake lines will need to be re-done anyway). The shock mounts would end up on the top of the axle rather than the bottom, but I dont think it would matter. Also the brake mounting flange is symmetrical, so the brakes can stay the correct way up. One down side of doing it this way is the axle flanges are offset upwards at the moment, so when upside down they will be offset down wards, thus lifting the rear slightly, but its going to have lowering blocks anyway, so not really a problem, just means they have to be that little bit bigger. I think this is the way its going to have to be done. What are the rules with lowering blocks anyways? is there a limit to the thickness? and can you use them without getting a cert? I guess the old 100mm clearance rule is still in effect?

Yeh, likes like the only way to do it, put spring seat on the bottom of axle, and re-do brake lines. If I can make it factory looking, shouldnt need a cert either. Or maybe the double flip? Hmmmmmmmmmm. Thanks for posting pics Simon, bloody rippa.

Dud's just sent me this pic: Lewled. But seriously, its gonna happen.

Haha, great advise, thanks. I will have another look tonight, and evaluate the situation/post pic for your viewing displeasure. You can buy 145 65 13's, im assuming they will have a bit o stretch on a 6 inch rim?

I think cars are set up slightly lower on the RH side from factory also, to make up for the camber of the road.

AIGHT, got this bad ass home a couple of days ago, and had a good look at it last night. Straight away I have discovered a problem, the rear end of these has a solid axle, with a single leaf spring, my problem is the spring is on top of the axle, this is going to make slamming it super tricky. I cant think of an easy way to lower the rear? I think the only option is to put the axle on top of the spring, which involves a lot of work due to shit being in the way and so on, I will slap a pic up tonight. I guess if I mod the axle in this way i'd have to get a cert? Anyone ever lowered a car with a set up like this? Is there an easy way of doing it that I dont know of? Also tried one of the 13x6 wheels on it (factory wheels are 12x4 btw), I think they will be spot on, seem to stick out about two inches from the guard, so with the lip flipped out and a bit of tire stretch, should be gravy.

Looking good, want to spray mine next?

Anyone interested in buying this? Will be putting it on TM soon. I fucking love this thing, its so fun to ride and can go any where, any time, and the bitches love it!! Have to sell as I now have 4 cars and no room in shed/time to use it/im lazy/woman wants me to put a ring on it. If your going to get your bike licence this is the perfect bike, is a fuck ton more fun to ride than any 250 road bike. It has a new chain/front sprocket/recovered seat/new fork boots/gaskets/seals/over flow tank/carb mount/few other bits n shits, and now two brand spanking new tires which have done about 1 hours riding, tires were $180ea, and the rest of the parts set me back about $600 (so $960 worth of new parts) Will also throw in a 4L of Mobil 1 2T and castrol chain and filter oil. Rego is live, but on hold, will need nothing for a WOF (will get one for new owner) Looking for around $2500/make a brother an offer.

I got a 40x160x6mm bit for ya, should have it in the next few days, so PM me your addy and i'll NZC it down for ya. I tried to get more, but when it comes to titanusyum, apparently theres no such thing as scrap cos its so fucking expensive. Tiz a little fank U for pissing around wth those wheels for me. Edit: Thanks for the trailer info also. I may start from scratch, as its going to be so small and low i'd have to do shit tons of mods to a std trailer, annnnd soon i'll be able to get steel/trailer shit/general engineering crap bloody cheap, as thats my new job!

Haha, shit me, thats chur. Also, LOL at working out finer points, do you mean me emailing you crudely drawn paint pics of how I think you should do it?

You got some bad ass buses down there.

Yeh, its a nice place, as long as you stay out of the valleys up the back/kawerau, and dont wear red or blue shirts. But yeh, dont think im man enough to roll pink wheels, maybe if it were a more manly car/not an alto, puhuhuhuhu.

Only prob with pink in WHK/KAW is that it will get me raped/killed. People in this area will instantly associate this with being gay, which sucks, cause it looks pretty fucking mint.

As suggested, They all look so fucking kool, its going to be a hard decision to make. Also thought about redoing pinstriping to match wheels, if I dont go with red that is, or would that look totally shit? Regards, Nana.

I thought of this also, not sure of gayness level tho. Will have my man Dud's whip up some p/shops and see what it looks like.

DONT BE SILLY KK, YOU CANT DUN THAT!! Any idea on shape or size of bits you may need/could use??

Talked to chap, reckons he can help me out, if you can work out a way of doing it with 6mm plate, I should be able to hook you up, he even offered to weld it if needed. The less shit used, the more likely it is to be free.