slipsittin

Try this link, they are all in PDF format so easy to print off wiring diagrams etc. http://www.scribd.com/search?query=automotive+manuals Corey

Yeah I wouldn't run 91 in it unless you have a good timing light to set it up for it. Awsome to hear it is going again. Corey

Manifold isn't the problem the size of the booster is, But Burton's do a manifold that works well. Filling the hole in requires removal of the guard, replacement R/H inner guard and firewall. As I said it's not simple at all, hence why the engine change. I would be keen to show you all that these engines have good potential but I don't want to alter that much to do it. It just doesn't get me syked. Corey

The thing is my inner guard was modded to run the booster years ago before certs were needed (its all done properly to the right standards though) when I used to race at Pukekohe. So I don't really want to have no booster and a shaped hole I hear you on not running one though Corey

Well due to not wanting to mod my engine bay away from how I have already done it..... The DOHC has to go due to the side draughts not fitting in with the brake booster. So if someone is keen here is the link to the add. viewtopic.php?f=15&t=16327

Well once again I have silly issues and the biggest one is the carbs hitting my brake booster I set the car up with my pinto turbo for the ciruit at Pukekohe when it was off the road and altered so much I had forgotten how many things I had altered. So now I have to reinvent the wheel or go back to the pinto which I have just got hold of one and start back to where I was This one will only be twin side draught as the 9k I spent on the last one is not available this time. Palmside also do very cheap brand new manifolds $300-00 plus freight and I also have just priced up a quick rack as the rack ends are easier to sort out on the right version I'm told. Also I just realised my brother sold my gearbox with his escort so my gearlever position is a lot different. On the up side I am finally getting my shed sorted and will have some pics up soon of the new set ups I will be doing. A big thanks to Gaz for sharing his information and I will show a step by step how to do for the crossmember conversion as I get it sorted. at least I have my front seats sorted now though.

If I'm right(probably not) the holes have to be drilled out.

Gaz, I'm fighting my laptop and printer to get the picture to scan in at the moment lol... I hate the fucken things when they don't want to do what you click on. Any way I have access to a parts sierra so I will be trying what you wrote. Also thanks for sharing the info man I really appreciate it. What I ment by the way was the GT cortina struts I have have the stub axle(where the hub/wheel bearings fit on to) located 50mm higher up from the balljoint tapper mount hole than the capri ones. Therefore the car should sit 50mm higher with the capri ones... Which is a common complant with capri owners binding the balljoints when lowering them to much. Thanks, Corey PS, Sorry again for the spam.

That is the truest thing I have read in any forum dude!!!! Corey

I take my hat off to you man, Like many others have said that is a very tidy car. My cortina was a minter when I first got it and seeing this thread reminds me of how much I destroyed it But yours is looking awesome and nowhere is it over the top Corey

On the pressure side you could raise the cap pressure to a 15psi one if your cooling system is in good nick. That will bring it down. I would run antifreeze/boil also. 93C is all good but a little higher for a manual fan I guess but the exhaust system plays alot with temperature when running modified engines. If its breathing everywhere but the exhaust it will be hotter Corey

If it is a chev diesel the injector pump is located in the distributor hole. I was with Durty thinking it was a slant 4 Ford D series truck engine but I'm not sure now?? Corey

Welcome Roddy. I'm guessing something is up with your auto choke. When you start it leave the air cleaner off and hold the choke butterflies open with a large screwdriver (big enough so it can't fall through the carb), Bring up the revs and see how it goes. I can't remember how to set them on those carbs but mine always gave silly problems. Also just read that you rekitted the carb, check the linkage to the choke butterfly is connected. Also as Uncle Jake said back up and recheck all the things inside your dizzy again. I had a capacitor do exactly what yours is doing and also a coil but try the basic steps first. There are also different caps for these engines and they put the rotor position out to your dwell angle. You may need to run a different points setting to get it corrected. Let us know how you get on. Corey

Thats a very good deal from what I have paid for in the past when I used to be in to motorsport (building and racing). Can you post the place here for us please. Corey

$500-00 for just calipers???? I'm hoping mine will be no more than 250 with new discs and rebuilt calipers. I hear you on the bolt straight on thing though...... But if mine works like I think it wil it should be the cheapest and easiest conversion to date. Also the pads are cheap and easy to get. Corey

The thing is guys, I got a set of capri struts off of treggo but the stub axle is nearly 50mm closer to the ball joint......So if I run them with my current springs the ball joints bind so I'm looking at modifying the original Cortina arms and then getting some made up. Also the capri arms bring my wheels in nearly 50mm which means I would have to run 75mm spacers and thats not cool. I'm in quite a spot between the suspension and the induction system at the moment LOL Gaz did you notice also the difference in stub axle angles between the Cortina and the Capri/Escort struts. Sorry for being off topic. Also I am sorting out a diferent brake conversion with 4 pot Hilux Surf callipers cause they are cheap and only have one brake pipe conection. I will post when I have it sorted and will supply the part numbers also. Corey

On the last link did you all see the other hole for the TCA's above the standard one? This is common for racing so it is drilled to give the right camber for a particular track. Also the TCA's are what looks to be a Burton or copy of theirs. I'm trying to get the legallities sorted on TCA modification at the moment as I noticed the capri/escort ones are nearly at ball joint binding when in the standard holes when lowered heaps. I will post soon. Corey

What do you want to do to it? I do a bit of stuff in my spare time and don't mind teaching people who are keen to learn. Price is dependent on buget and time taken. I use One Stop Automotive in Huntly for my local machining or Franklin Engineering in Pukekohe, and if I'm in Auckland I use Taylor Automotive Corey

Thanks man I am trying to get a guy I know to photoshop it for me... apparently theres like 5 shade of base coat on those bikes. Maybe its the bigger version of the mk2 escort lol. I tried a few ways of removing the indicators and covering the hole but it looked silly IMHO with the other mods I have in mind so I'm glad others like it. Just for the old days and you can't see the surface rust I will try to get some more pics up of the other mods I'm doing by the end of the weekend Corey

What do you boes think?? Well as you can see I am a sucker for punishment lol. I think the new grill setup is way better than original. I really don't like the front indicator/park lamp assemblies. Corey

I PM'd Gaz to querry him on his rack conversion and have hit a bit of a brick wall till I get the option to sort out a different setup. I will post some more pics more often as I got a new phone and can work on it with more room. I hope to pick up the doner diff for the spring pads this weekend coming and try to get them off and setup on the other one. Also I will post some pics of the seats and console now that they are sitting in place properly. My 3 year old boy told me today I need a smoker pipe out the back (exhaust pipe) and indicators on the back so I don't get a ticket. If it were only that easy to make the old girl run again lol BUT SOON SHE SHALL BE ALL MOCKED UP AND RUNNING

Well Labour weekend came and went a lot faster than the weather stayed predictable lol. The plan was to get the body bare metaled and the rust preventer on.... BUT it didn't go that way but I made the shed useable again and sorted my grill ideas. Heres the standard one. And heres my version with the indicator and park light removed. I think it looks better anyway and here it is with the lights mocked up. Also a bad pic below but I like the stalkers I picked up a while back. Also before I put the bonet back on I got a shot of the engine in the car

Have you got a pic as I'm on the road a lot next week. I will keep an eye out but need to know what I'm keeping an eye out for lol. Corey

Here in Hamilton never, we don't have these around here do we??