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Posts posted by brocky41
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So bit the bullet and brought this engine of an older fella on trademe. 1500cc block with a GT head on it, double valve springs, apparently has a cam, set of extractors and a rebuilt carb. I also scored a Mk1 4 speed floor shift with driveshaft and other associated bits. He has spares so once back together I can raid him if needed.
The escort engine in it will be sold off once the new engine is in, mostly for bolt raiding etc if i need to.
Cortina Nats - here we come
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4 hours ago, tortron said:
Can you Honda lego some more power out of it?
K swap - already has the 4WD - some drag civics are down in the 7's lol
Heres a 'street legal' one with casual 1000hp
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On 14/11/2021 at 20:24, Valiant said:
I'd really like to give it a try.
I have plans for a LPG turbo light commercial, if it ever comes to fruition I'll keep all you pests updated.
Here's a photo of my lockdown project, the feeble vapor injection stopped working so I reverse engineered it to use an impco 125 and J model. Works great.
What's that you say?
"You can lay a gas carb on any angle, they have the capacity to be ducted, and meter enough fuel to easily support turbo pinto, turbo 22r, and the might of a Mazda Demio engine!?"
Yes I tell you, YES!
You updated from the mighty red wagon?
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2 hours ago, CUL8R said:
Go see Chris @ Chamberlains Suspension.
He can either match the coils of what you have or custom build new coils, reset factory ones ( I believe their Coiling machine is out of action at the moment however ) . They can also make blocks, and install it all for you too.
If its a old enough car I wouldn't recommend resetting your factory coil springs, as they've most likely sagged over the years and will re-settle unevenly 9/10...
This plus one
To give you an example of old and saggy springs, I got some Cobra 50mm raised rear coils for my D21 Terrano as it tows alot. Well it must have towed alot previous to me as the 50mm raise actually raised it 85mm (the 35mm sag then 50mm lift). Had to re-index the front torsion bars and raise that up a bit just to get rid of the massive rake . Cobra's are made by chamberlains and i highly recommend them off my own experience.
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16 minutes ago, Valiant said:
There was talk of getting rid of LPG recently.
Seemed dumb to me. Like saving the planet by not having straws any more.
But its ok we will have all these blue masks floating around now lol - I love LPG, still wouldn't mind something old running on it, Gas hot water rules too.
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5 hours ago, igor said:
Is there a point at which a restoration becomes a new vehicle under the law? If it still has the original plates and tags but everything else has been remade it would theoretically still be the same vehicle and could therefore enjoy historical status / cheap rego because it's old.
Ive often thought of this for all the escort rally cars (well any reshelled car) - if i have a rusty everything but the firewall and put the firewall into a brand new mk2 escort body that ive had someone construct out of new panels, is that still that same car. I guess it is in a way, because if all those panels were replaced over say a 60 year timeframe it is, your just doing them all at once.
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Just brought a 2001 Honda Stream (family wagon) with the K20 (K20A2 from memory - there arte a few types) Can confirm - goes hard for what it is lol. needs intake for the dort noises.
Good on fuel, cam chain too - later ones are even better. Had to change a knock sensor and it has the usual rocker cover and front crankshaft oil seal leaks, other than as above, pretty trouble free engine. Another common issue is the cams starving of oil due to poor servicing but if they have started to get a groove on you could just upgrade them while your at it.
Great swap for a little oldie like yours.
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24 minutes ago, SOHC said:
The catman gave my friend 7k for his bin
H6 Legacy 04 on are around a grand for the tri setup at the moment. Its based on whats in them alot now (coding) rather than half and full size - Mazda Atenza have a few different ones - one fetches around $1500 but is in 1 in 100 cars im told.
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The old tractor forklift looks awesome too.
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She's been purring of late. I struck a deal with the neighbor for a row of shelter belt trees she had lopped off at ground level by one of those diggers with a massive claw. She asked him to lay them out evenly to make things a bit easier to move but she got home and there are 2 massive stacks all pick up stick like. I have spent the last couple of months just here and there towing a few through two gates and about 50-60m to our place.
Ive only got a pile of ones she had 'topped' left to go now, so without the massive trunks on them which should be an afternoons work.
Love the tractor has high and low box, a few of those logs are pretty heavy and it would only move them in low 1 and full tilt. Ill take a couple of years worth of wood for us and then should any OSers need some pine next year ill have it split and will be selling by the trailer load / cube to help recoup mine and the neighbors costs.
First mod - removing the door - bloody thing keep swinging around in the breeze and was generally getting in the way.
Exhaust fell off - luckily a temp one was an EL Falcon away (fits on for now, as it came off the car, didnt even bother making it look better.) Will have a straight pipe with flap made up, because sounds boss with no muffler
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4 hours ago, BobbyBreeze said:
More capacity over an RB block - 3.1 and 3.2 is easy with OEM cranks with up to 3.5L doable if you spend for a billet crank. They go into Z's and C10's so people like the nostalgia too.
Pity the RB head has less ultimate power potential in N/A form over the L though. They do sound pretty damn cool though.
That sounds the tits. What about these guys - love the sound of a good L with a turbo
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4 hours ago, Willdat? said:
Rims need widening and more tyre imo something like this haha
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Oh its so easy - straight out of the car and on the back of the ute, job done in minimum effort and time. I think i could to with one of those forklift type 3 point linkage units for the front. Those hay forks are either not going to stay straight or poke someones eye out.
Also lifted a datsun 140J body (no glass or diff, but still has motor and box) and moved it forward but not back. Time for more rear weight?
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So mucked around with the fuel pump - did the rear round part from this video and then pulled the top off - turns out the fuel delivery valve from the kill lever is a bit sticky. Wasnt too bad - i thought diesel pumps were voodoo science lol.
Moved it back and biffed the top back on to see. Sure enough after a bleed, started and ran well. (will have to remove again and clean it up as i had to tap the pump a bit to start the 2nd time so still jamming Can almost lift an E46 wagon with no engine and box (pretty much complete car other than that) but couldnt move it due to no weight on rear. Thinking may water fill the rear tyres or get one of those trays for the 3 point link out back and throw some weight on it if I need to. Although moving an engine and box or a dead car stripped shell is all i really need.
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Hi @johnnyfive yea i did crack these while cranking - lower one was a 'squirter' but the top one had a case of the dribbs. Battery died but will try again tonight - hand pumping while they are open 1 at a time first.
I did give it the tinyest est squirt of engine start ( i know not great for diesels) and it coughed so at least i know there is some life somewhere in there.
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Well I dont know if i need help in the head or just help lol. I went and brought this International 444 sight unseen and not running. Came with bucket, hay forks for the front and a plow thingo for the rear. Mostly want to use it for lifting and shifting stuff, you get sick of manual labour on 10 acres after a while.
I got it pretty cheap and i think it has a fuel delivery issue rather than the motor being the issues. Old owner said it got harder and harder to start after being left for longer periods. I tried to bleed the injectors last night but im getting plenty of fuel to the pump, the pump just isnt delivering fuel to the injector lines - im thinking something up with the pump, as the hand primer pump is getting the fuel through the system and back to the tank, fuel filter is full etc but the "kill" lever is awfully easy to move back and forward (i dont know if this is normal). Just seems odd with no fuel coming out of the injector lines when cracked off (ive bleed a few LD28's in my time lol)
I also havent worked out what the black switch to the left of the key panel does, and have already noticed some dodgy wiring.
Looks to have a new starter, and alternator and a rebuild hyd pump so just those are probably worth what i paid for it.
Anyway heres some pics - any advice is appreciated
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I think i might have followed this from Oxford a couple of weeks ago - Cool car.
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@Naratechwin - Dereg, rust in front xmember, Struts and and a few other bits sold.
I do have the Bumpers, front is a bit smashed up but rear looks ok and the shift knob is still there.
Brocky41's 1963 Ford Cortina Mk1 "JANEE"
in Projects and Build Ups
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Yay - rear bumper brackets, need to be bent back into shape but brackets none the less.
Also need to find those chrome dome bolts etc to attach the bumper as all i have a a bucket of jap nuts and bolts