KKtrips

https://www.facebook.com/KustomTinting/ He did my XE and the Prius, will get him to do the BA too, and the Commy when that is back on the road. He is mobile or you can drop it to his house, he came to work and did it the workshop there. On time and no hassle. Cost $300 for the Prius (and $350 for the XE from memory)

Turd polished. Now to start preparing for Wagnats. edit - oops - somehow I deleted my previous post.

Spokes rub on the outside of the mount, not the caliper. Also I've checked the studs, there is at least 10 turns. 1.5mm pitch into 5mm spacers will drop that down to 7ish turns. Alternatively I could space the caliper inboard about 3mm with a thick washer behind each mount bolt but it's not really the right way to do it. *waits for you to tell me its a legit way to fix it*

Fitted wheels and tyres today. But the wheels rub marginally on the callipers on both left hand side wheels. It is literally a zig-zag paper thickness clearance. So am ordering a set of 5mm spacers and will be good to go. It'll sit a little lower after I roll it back and forth a couple of times but this is a good idea of how it will look for now.

Hopefully tomorrow. Rims are Advan RG's in 16x7 and tyres I'm anticipating will be 205-55-16s so should be same rolling circumference as factory tyres, maybe a teeny tiny bit bigger. These are the new rims here.

No I haven't. I shall do so when it is on the 4 poster next.

6 clicks up fron softest on the rear and 3 clicks up from softest on the front. (I think it is 16 clicks from softest to hardest on both ends)

So tonight, I physically ran out of downwards adjustment. Could barely drive it off the hoist, well actually I couldn't with the front so had to put it on blocks of wood. Obviously that means its still not low enough in the rear - damn it. Next step is remove one or both of the adjuster rings and just roll the threaded locater. I'm kinda hoping it sags a little more. But thats as low as she goes in the front folks. Behaved OK going home and no rubbing or scraping I could detect.. Maybe need to get someone who knows what they are doing with stiffness adjustments to help because it feels a bit pogo like, though I';m not sure if its the front or rear causing it... Check out my photoshop skills.

Booked in for a cert monday after this - gives me a few days to get the heights sorted and new tyres/wheels on. I'll do my best, but I do still have to daily it 300+Km a week.

Put in some green lowering springs tonight after work. Spent about 3 hours to chuck them in, probably have half an hour worth of reinstalling the last bits of trim and shit. Need to spend a couple hours tuning the heights and shock stiffness. But for slapping them in it is already about perfect in the bum (maybe 5-10mm more) but needs to come down probably 30-40mm in the front and stiffen it up all around a smidge (it's currently on max soft) Will upload picture of slammage once I'm happy with it...

R - N - D is self explanatory, B is regenerative braking, but I only select it on long downhills. The gear lever sits in the same spot (neutral) the whole time, and you just nudge it into R, D or B like a momentary switch. There is also a P button above the gear lever that puts it in Park. Plus there is a foot operated e-brake down the left hand side of the brake pedal.

There is a place up in Porirua called Reklaw Upholstery, no idea what they are like but was going to do some research on them for the future.

A few come in from Japan with coilovers and a few importers ditch them instead of certifying them. So I've got the word out to a couple of compliance shops for some quality second hand ones. I sure as shit ain't dropping 2.5K on a new set. Haha

Looks like I won't be giving Cory Taylor a ride anytime soon. I love the call "the windows are tinted" at the end

Yeah mine is a Gen 3 which is 1.8 litre. Curiously they are more economical than the 1.5 litre Gen 1 and 2.

Nah. Wasn't a consideration till this one came up for sale.

I just realised I never told you the $/km figure. Using current fuel prices, the Prius will be in the region of $90-95 petrol per 1000km, a Euro diesel would work out at $65-$80 diesel per 1000km, add $60 for 1000km of RUC for the diesel too. Unless your speedo is broken... Also I brimmed the tank last night and the range is 850km according to the gauge. I believe it has a 35 litre tank.

Just lower before letting her see it. My mrs is all about the rough rides.

Why? It has an inbuilt generator. Plus it has a fuel tank big enough for 850km. More than enough to get to the next service station. LoL edit - what these guys said above ^

All my 2 litre euros were typically 1000km on a 50ish litre fill. Give or take 5 litres. That works out at 4.5 - 5.5 litres per 100km. The Prius is reading 4.2 - 4.4 litres per 100km on the gauge. But I'm yet to fill a tank to confirm this. So a Prius is more economical than a Euro diesel even before you add in the diesel RUCs. Include the fact that a Prius has no RUCs and it became the selling point for me.

I did look at full body kits but fuck me that shit is spendy. I'm not thaaaat into it. LoL

I have had this question before and the answer is yes you can have a bi-modal exhaust, but one side has to be quiet, and the other side has to be more quiet. ie: you cannot have quiet and loud modes. So effectively exactly what you and Cletus have said.

Yup, yup. I know it's criminal, but I'm an old man now, with a mid life crisis impending plus I'm doing a fair number of Km commuting each day so I needed something cheap, reliable and I felt the need for some mod-cons like A/C and cruise control. There won't be that much to this build, but I do intend on modifying it to get it looking somewhat right. Because right now it looks a bit like an Uber and I feel I should be named Muhammed 806 or something. I plan on changing that fairly quickly, so I've just eyed up some Tanabe DF210 lowering springs from Japan. This picture is meant to be on DF210's but freshly installed on stock wheels so it should be promising if they settle down after a thousand miles and with some bigger rims and tyres to fill the guards. With that in mind I bought me this set of 16" Advan RG's and going to chuck on some 205-50-16's or 205-55-16's to give it a tiny bit of stretch on 7" rims so I also hope to fill in the guards about 1/3" - 3/4" more than the stock 195-55-15's do. Also one of the first things I plan on doing is removing the front number plate and mount, then try to hide it discreetly as possible in the lower grille recess. Kinda like the look of the deleted front plate bracket in this pic. Oh yeah, I've also ordered a front lip - which I hope will look fine but it's cheap enough so will not be a big loss if it looks shit and I bin it. I liked the JP Vizage kit the best. Not too wild. But still US$1K+ freight, painting and fitting. So extremely unlikely to happen  FYI - this is stock height, then freshly installed DF210's and finally 1000 mile+ settled in height. Oh yeah I forgot to say, I'm getting the windows tinted next Thursday - try and hide my shame somewhat.

You can't get a copy. That's what I'm saying. We sometimes shares parts of the paperwork but never the entire file. Or not that I know of anyway.

Fact of the matter is, we know that some people will change their car as soon as it is certed. Either by giving it lots of rear camber, fitting stretched tyres, changing the seats or whatever. But any cert done these days has a plethora of photos taken with the cert. If the car is involved in an accident then we can be asked to compare photos of when it was certed compared to the components it was when it was in the accident, if they don't match then insurance cover may be declined, the driver can be done for use of an unsafe motor vehicle etc etc etc. Much the same as changing a vehicle after a WoF, except there is photographic evidence to show the state of the vehicle when certed.