KKtrips

Went to look at it when I went to the V8's in Puke last year but the rooster didn't reply to my emails when I tried to make a time. So fuck him, I decided I'll get something for myself on a trip in the next couple of years.

My wagnats is being celebrated by taking my wagon to the body shop.

This looks sexy as fuck - also I will move your posts above to your build thread

Time has come for me to wire my scoot. I have no wiring whatsoever so starting from scratch but the bonus is I'm running bare bones electrical Anyone got a go-to wiring diagram to help make my job easy? The full list of everything electrical I'll be running. Ignition Switch Trail-tech CDI and Coil Headlight (low beam only) Park-light Tail-light Brake-light Switch Brake-light Speedo-Light (not necessary if too hard) All lights are LED bulbs and I want to set it up so they turn on whenever the engine is running (ie: no light switch). There is no battery, horn, or indicators.

In later news, I have installed some new Infinity Reference series speakers and a Pioneer head unit, holy shit, the sound is insane. ALL the bass, like seriously off the chain. LOVING my commute with the awesome music and cruise.

Yikes - ewwwww

If anyone wants me to check our copy of the ETRTO (I think we have the 2015 edition) then send an email to me at work and I can check for you. (PM me for my work email address) I plan to update the Tyre-Rim infosheet, with all the info from the ETRTO, but its a time/priority thing.

If the tyre size is outside the rim size listed in the ETRTO (tyre standard) and the LVVTA tyre size document then you can fit narrower tyres only if the manufacturer (not the wholesaler or retailer) supplies a letter saying so. Also - you MUST use the tyre brand and model listed on the letter. ie: you can't get a letter from Falken saying 205-60-14's can fit on 8" rims and then fit Supercats in that size.

Compressions are fine. Don't fret. Jag handbrakes are the devil. That is all.

Bart - NAUGHTY Welding cast is an absolute no-no so please ignore Bart cos that is super dumb advice. If you are changing hubs and stubs, why not change suspension arms too and retain the correct ball-joints?

I'm presuming you mean for cert? But regardless of if WOF or cert, unfortunately no you cannot. The problem with them is if you pull the ball joint out of the stub and the tapered insert falls off, then you might not notice and do the joint up and it might pull up tight but there will be play (and a lot of it) once you start driving.

You and everyone else / me too

Ride Height is plus minus 5%

Yup temporary seat removal is the only other thing. Gold star for Terry.

You can request your plate is made without a rego number on the plate. PS - are you going to get a PP for your car? I might know a guy who MIGHT be able to arrange your new PP on it. (I'm not promising but I can try) edit - FWIW - a mismatching rego number is one of the only 2 things that is not required to match on the cert plate for a WoF.

@Dudley as @Bling said, part of the form is filled out by the certifier. You could just take the parts to an NDT lab and ask them to crack test them, but without the form they won't know what result the certifier is looking for and you may have to redo it if it is wrong, so it is better if the certifier gives you this form and it is done right the first time. Without the form is like asking a builder to build a garden shed without any idea of where and how the customer wants it built.

@Dudley the certifier will give you the form you need, called the F008, take it to the test lab with the struts. Ask the certifier, what he would like to see around identifying the struts.

What year is the car?

What materials are they made from?

Unless you have short and super hard springs then 40mm of compression should be easy otherwise you are going to need lighter springs. Droop should be manageable too, just takes some braining to figure out the best way to adjust your adjustables to get it.

Running adjustable coil overs? Keeper springs might be your saving grace.

It can't touch the body at any point. But probably 5mm is enough clearance.

FYI - below is what the LVVTA exhaust noise standard says in regards to the maximum dB limits. I'm guessing your rotary is probably closer to 95dBA. A 6-10dB increase is what most human ears would detect as doubling loudness. Decibel level requirements 2.9(1) The maximum permissible decibel level emitted by a low volume vehicle tested in accordance with this standard, must not, except for in the case of where factoring must be applied for one or more of the situations specified in 2.9(2) to 2.9(4), exceed: (a) in the case of a moped (LA or LB-Class), 91 dBA; or (b) in the case of a motorcycle with an engine capacity of 125 cc or less (LC, LD or LE-Class), 96 dBA; or (c) in the case of a motorcycle with an engine capacity of more than 125 cc (LC, LD or LE-Class), 100 dBA; or (d) in the case of an MA, MB, MC, MD1, MD2, or NA-class vehicle that was manufactured before 1 January 1985, 95 dBA; or (e) in the case of an MA, MB, MC, MD1, MD2, or NA-class vehicle that was manufactured on or after 1 January 1985: (i) if first registered in New Zealand before 1 June 2008, 95 dBA; or (ii) if first registered in New Zealand on or after 1 June 2008, 90 dBA. NOTE 1: The decibel figures specified in 2.9(1) are the figures set by the Government, as specified in Land Transport Rule: Vehicle Equipment Amendment 2011, and may change from time to time as Government policy dictates. Such changes will be reflected in an amendment to this low volume vehicle standard. NOTE 2: ‘dB’ refers to ‘decibels’, and the ‘A’ denotes ‘A-weighted decibels’, which is an adjustment process that takes into account the varying sensitivity of the human ear, to different decibel levels at different frequencies. Low frequency sounds are quieter to the human ear. The ‘A’ weighting curve primarily takes into account the 500-10,000 Hz frequency range.

I think I am doing a terrible job of explaining, LoL, The law allows a vehicle that meets a recognised overseas requirement or standard (even if it is different to NZ requirements or standards) so it does not need to meet the equivalent NZ requirement or standard.

I wouldn't call this overly rowdy or any rowdier than a fairly heavily modified small block Chev in a Camaro