KKtrips

/beaten like a cheap hooker at a truck stop

Just now, yoeddynz said:

Is the struggle to brake effectively and pass the test with larger wheels purely down to the extra leverage the bigger feet have over the stock brake size - rather then it being a weight or extra speed thing that upgraded trucks like this are usually having a cert test for? 

Combination of leverage, increased weight and increased HP giving less time for the heat to disipitate between heat cycles. But I understand the extra leverage plays a massive part.

These just popped up on FahBuh right now for $750 - nice and close to you in Havelock too...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1524300857866952/permalink/2421554838141545/?sale_post_id=2421554838141545&ref=messenger_banner

Most Hilux's have to stick with 31" tall tyres and give the brakes a full overhaul. Are you running Safari axles?

FYI - potential solutions are 33x10.5 tyres on a 7"wide rim and you are also allowed to fit 33x12.5"wide tyres on an 8" wide rim. The LVVTA tyre chart says minimum 8.5" but its changed and the tyre-rim chart has not been updated yet.

In saying that, the problem you might have with 33" tyres is hauling that bad boy up and passing the brake test. Hiluxes can fail on 33's with a 3 stop brake test, yours being a scratch build requires a 5 stop brake test and I think that you are going to have an issue passing a brake test.

2 hours ago, xsspeed said:

What is allowable in terms of wheel repairs, more thinking for cert than wolf. 2 of my SSRs had cracks on inner barrels so have now had them welded up by TTT. Currently not ground back or anything so you can see all the welding but are wheel repairs on cert or wolf mans radar?

LVVTA Wheels and Tyre Standard says...
Aluminum wheels must not be repaired unless the repair is carried out in accordance with the requirements specified for wheel repair within the Land Transport Rule: Wheels and Tyres 2001 (Rule 32013), in which case it is not a modification.

Land Transport Wheels and Tyre Rule says...
3.2(5)     A repair to an alloy wheel must:
    (a) be compatible with the material specification of the item to be repaired; and
    (b) restore the damaged or worn wheel so that it is within safe tolerance of its original state when manufactured, as able to be demonstrated by a physical test

No don't know it sorry. Looks nice, I would be wary of what is under the paint, a look up under the dash and inside the doors might be a good telltale

.

Yes, you need to have access in and out of the back seat. But you can get away with only one side having access in and out. So the drivers seat can be fixed back buckets.

2 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

If a driveshaft hoop is welded, does that weld need to be NDT?

Depends, how good are the welds? I would say give it a DT and see how it fairs.

Just now, ajg193 said:

Starlet is registered as a 5 seater, but only has 4 seatbelts from factory (registered new in 1983, so later than the 79 requirement as far as I can tell?)

Cert plate also explicitly states 5 seats

Is this likely to cause me any issues?

I would check to see if it was actually classed as a 5 seater originally.  If it did  then it would have had 5 seatbelts from factory as that was the requirement in NZ from 1 November 1979.

Officially - if it only ever had 4 seatbelts from factory, I would look at getting it reclassed as a 4 seater and also get your cert plate changed so it is compliant.

Unofficially - it is unlikely to cause a problem for you unless someone was going over your car with a fine tooth comb which would not typically happen unless it was going through Low Volume or Entry Certification. The fact it has been through certification already says it passed a close scrutiny check once before so probably would't get picked up.

FYI - returning a vehicle to stock there are 2 processes are called a Full Return to Standard or Partial Return to Standard

Both require a certifier inspect the vehicle for any modifications that have been removed, and that they have been removed appropriately and safely and also that there are no subsequent modifications since originally certified.

If the answer to both is yes, then the certifier will remove the plate and get in touch with LVVTA to advise a full return to standard. LVVTA will remove the reference to the plate out of Landata or if it is a partial return to standard then LVVTA will print a revised plate and send to the certifier for them to fit.

Both require to pay the certifier for their time spent inspecting the vehicle, completing any paperwork and attaching the revised plate (if necessary) A partial return to standard also attracts a plate reprint fee from LVVTA.

Keeping in mind that if you are changing a gearbox that was originally changed from Manual to Auto before certification and now going back to Manual and the replacement gearbox is not the same as the original OE manual gearbox, then a full recert is required, because it is not returning to stock, it is a further modification.

I'm not sure its ready for my level of sarcasm.
 

Just now, JustHarry said:

 "apparently" .

LoL

As stated above, it's not the lift that kicks a 4WD into requiring cert, it's the additional mods that come with it.

Just now, JustHarry said:

https://www.4wdbits.co.nz/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=4897

For arguments sale do these count as a "direct replacement" for 75mm lift?

Yes, the issue will come about from the angle of the steering drag link will be steep enough that you will probably need to fit a longer/adjustable drag link. That does require cert.

6 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

WOF inspectors generally don’t have access to the hobby car manual. The VIRM (WOF rules) has tables of what does not need cert, so anything else does. For suspension see here and go to tables and images 

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/steering-and-suspension/steering-and-suspension-systems

Grab a copy of the threshold document. It lists all the modifications that don't require certification in one handy location. 

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

 

Just now, JustHarry said:

Want to lift my 78 series landcruiser. 

So coils and shocks. Bolt in spec. Will likely need loger soft brake hoses 

Since I thought it was over 50mm was cert i was only going to do a 50mm. Lift.

But would go 3 inch otherwise

Are they live front axles?

Just now, AllTorque said:

Sorry, what was the question?

How do you decide that a vehicle you are inspecting for a WoF requires cert.

Just now, JustHarry said:

So does the over 50mm lift still require cert? Using recognized parts ie. From autolign / ironman sorta thing

It's not a 50mm lift that requires cert. It's how it is lifted that makes that determination.

I haven't checked a WoF for 15 years, so I'm outta touch. Maybe @alltorque can correct me on the way things are done these days. 

Also, don't worry, I "argue" with people all day long. It's normally only the ones who take a highly unlikely modification and apply a requirement in a hypothetical situation that doesn't even apply to their own vehicle just to win an "argument". It's those people who wig me out.

Normally a WoF inspector would not need to ask the question provided the vehicle was not extreme in height and the vehicle handled and performed as expected.

If their alarm bells were going off then it would be up to the owner to prove their vehicle complied, it is not up to the WoF inspector to prove it doesn't.

A WoF inspector has a certain amount of descretion, that's why they have to had been in the trade for 4 years prior to getting their authority. 

Just now, Nominal said:

So, if they are catalogued as lift springs for a 1998 Impreza, and are fitted to a 1998 Impreza, and all other thresholds are OK, then they should pass WOF?

Yes

edit: for clarity, must be catalogued by a reputable suspension manufacturer, not a list of part numbers on some random spreadsheet on an obscure website.

1 hour ago, Mof said:

I feel that you can clarify all you like, but this is the threshold sheet, it's not up to you. It's up to the wof testers, and they interpret these things in an incredibly broad spectrum. 

I get calls about this kind of thing several times a week, a vehicle owner will ring up complaining that a WoF inspector has incorrectly interpreted a requirement telling them they need a cert. 

From the information provided by the vehicle owner

• we can determine the WoF inspector has correctly interpreted the requirement and I can explain this to the vehicle owner.
• we can determine the WoF inspector has incorrectly interpreted the requirement and I encourage the vehicle owner to get the inspector to call me and I can explain it to them

When the WoF inspector calls I can explain the requirements to them, sometimes it turns out the information provided by the caller was incorrect or an important detail was missed out of the conversation meaning the WoF inspector was actually correct and I encourage the WoF inspector to then get the vehicle owner to call me back so I can explain it to them if needed.

We have pretty good bullshit detectors here and can get most of the necessary information out of the vehicle owner pretty quickly unless they are intentionally hiding something knowing it will change the answer, a call from the WoF inspector usually clears that up though.