fishtailfred

managed to get this, not as much use as i had hoped, but potentially interesting none the less. as i said, i have no water lines to the turbo, but i do have a water-oil cooler like this diagram the water oil cooler is fed with already "hot" water from half way down the side of the head and is returned into the heater return and into the place where the radiator returns to the block for the water pump to scavenge. the turbo is done the same way, but the cooler water from the lower jacket on the block is fed to the turbo, and it returns to the heater return just like the oil cooler. both of these work via a pressure differential introduced by the water pump pushing against the thermostat (another reason why you should always use one) and the consequently lower pressure on the other side of the stat. heres the pic : hope that helps. fred.

even the autometer stuff is pretty average. just well marketed. they dont even have accuracy specs on their site. maybe vdo or something more serious? or a DVM and electical sensor. not pretty, but accurate.

ie, even just the hole would be enough.

are you sure its that low? i left about 15mm of oil above mine when stopped such that at 7krpm there is still probably about 5mm on there and getting sucked through the hole as fast as the pump needs it. think of it like a sink right, one hole, and it all goes through it quite quickly. same deal. the idea is that when you pull a G, the oil cant run/tip out of that lower half. having gaps round the edge is counter productive believe it or not. heres mine from the inside, zero oil surge so far. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... ldedin.jpg reason being that during sustained cornering, the oil would bugger off and not find its way down anyway, so you want to trap it in such that when its tipped it has to overflow out of your central and high hole, or be sucked by the pump. having a vented top plate will help with sudden transients though, thats true. stop it sloshing around etc. either way, whatever you decide, it will be better than without a top plate. hope that helps. (feeling like fucking killing someone right now, so shafted, you wouldnt believe me) fred.

sounds like a culprit. like they said, temp sender should be in head or at least on head side of thermostat. just moving it upstream of the turbo outlet would be a good start though. sounds like you might be seeing turbo water temps when the rest of it is running sweet?

what sort of dimensions are we talking? sounds like you have that under control anyway. that 10" fan would definitely be my first port of call. my ones work a lot better sucking than blowing too. just thought i'd mention that, not sure if its relevant at all or not.

you need a bigger radiator by the sounds of it. one of or both of two things will happen if you take away the coolant lines to the turbo : turbo will run much more hot and not last as well heat will end up in oil destroying it sooner and overheating the oil for the engine instead of the coolant. definitely run coolant to the turbo if it was designed for it. also, in that case, the thing to do is get your water cooling under control first. if you measure oil temps after that, and they are crook, then do the oil cooler. do you have electric fans on the radiator? if not, time to get a decent one or two for low speed situations. your radiator might be ok if its only at idle that you are having issues. on the track, the airflow from the speed keeps things pretty reasonable unless its grossly undersized.

i thought you might like these, its in south africa, hence the "bakkie" term being used instead of ute. same engine as mine, but making about twice my power, and in a much lighter ute dyno run 1 dyno run 2 old bakkie, 8.88 second run old bakkie 552kw dyno run old bakkie meanest wheelie ever enjoy, fred.

lol, yeah, that was a show i put on for my 18th birthday party, its less than 6 months till i'm 29 [crys a lot and wonders where the years went]. about 50 odd people there that night. good party. i took that thing along muriwai (took it there on the ute) and drove it around the streets daringly and was even invited to someone elses birthday party to do burnouts once cops showed up just after i left due to fighting etc. that was a 16th used to offroad it at rosedale road and even caught some air at about 120kph once good times. the earmuffs were needed with the dump tubes, and you could see flames from them at night easily. do you have any build pics to post? fred.

yeah, i know how to do it, i was just hoping for some detail pics to ogle at in place of my tools and cars which are very far away i'm a sucker for aircoolers in general, but i've had no luck finding mean ones being posted on the net with good pics. if you enter any burnout comps, where a helmet and thick jacket with the collar up. http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff26 ... 024768.jpg i got slapped in the back of the neck while doing this once, the piece of steel belted rubber was about 1.5 foot long, and 6mm thick, and caused my hand to be numb for about 20 minutes and my neck to be full of little red holes from the steel wires in the piece of tyres. it hurt. quite a bit. buggys looking great anyway

if you can source a water - oil for yours, it could be a goer with a new radiator. i dont know if they had them oem or not. most turbo cars except rotors just use water - oil and work just fine.

yeah, thats what i meant. i have no idea what my oil temps are, but i went silly on the radiator, and my coolant only warms up when idling still, or doing static burnouts, driving it drags it back down to 65C - 55C depending on speed and load. thats with a good brand new oem thermostat properly installed too. i have an oil to water heat exchanger on mine, i suspect that due to the low water temp and big sump my oil temps are ok, but its on my list of things to find out for sure. is your turbo oil cooled only (mine is) or both oil and water? if the latter, its unlikely to be an oil issue. a mate of mine came up with the rather cunning idea of using a small bike radiator and a water to oil cooler to cool the oil. that way no danger of losing oil pressure with a bad hose, and if you do lose water from it, its only it, and not the whole engine. pretty cunning. if i have oil issues, i will probably try that first. same guy has an mx5 with a similar engine setup to mine. he has high oil temps, but sweet water temps, and quite a big oil cooler, but not the best airflow to it. i'd consider the airflow when choosing your size. if there isnt much, might not cool so well even if big. fred.

provided you use a thermostat (which you 100% should anyway) i doubt you could go too big. are you sure its oil temp thats the issue and not the whole normal cooling system? did you update your thread? (ie, can i find that info myself)

looking good do you have any construction pics of the frame shortening etc? i'm a sucker for detail

as noted by retep130, thats not ideal. however not an issue. residual pressure in the surge tank just makes the regulators job harder to do. mine probably has some residual pressure too, but in reality, its a non issue. you dont want to aim for that though. if you are concerned about high pressure capability, you inline a pair of pumps to the rail. this is why bosch pumps are a good call and walbro are dodgy. my 044 flows mint out to over 100psi. thats WAY more than i will ever use. currently i have 45psi base and 17.5boost giving a total of about 65 if you include some restriction here and there. if on the other hand i cranked the boost to 30psi (which in intend to do) and upped the base pressure to 60psi (which i intend to do as a quick fix in the short term) we have 90psi of peak pressure just when flow needs to be max. at these levels, the walbro does not cut the mustard.

the main thing is this : return line flows all of pumps flow without restriction 8mm should cover that unless you went totally nuts. it will be sweet.

not at all. ideally, return line should equal feed line. reason being that if the return is restricted, then the reg will be turned down to get the right idle pressure. when the fuel demand rises, the pressure will fall. mines smaller (the incorrect norm), but it seems to work ok anyway. i have 3/8 to the engine, and 5/16 back to the surge tank. 3/8 is good for many many many hp, so i dont think you will outflow the 8mm.

my surge tank was from sinco customs too, i highly recommend him. great value, top quality product! good guy! his name is Mike.

hey softy! i agree with him. i am emotionally attached to the ute too, but you must take care of your engine before your panels (with the exception of the antirust). hence, the ute is 5 shades of red

after the first time though, the surge tank stays full, and there is no need. there only needs to be about half in the surge tank before the main pump can pull it, push it, and get it back from the return line. i drew this up a while back, perhaps its of some use to someone reading this thread :

umm, if something other than lifters are scraping without the plugs in, you have major issues that priming the oil system wont solve. removing the plugs changes the load on the bearings from substantial (comp ratio dependent) to negligible. at that point, if the bearings have so much as a residue on them they will be fine. to illustrate : 10:1 compression 86mm bore (for a 2l) should push about 200psi cranking more with oil in the bores if you put the plugs back in after oiling. 86mm bore is 9 square inches, 200 pounds is 90kg. 90 x 9 = 810kg of load on your crank at TDC remove the plugs and its only the load imposed by friction. IF you care about your bearings and they have no oil film, removing plugs is the only way to protect them. on a smaller bore with lower compression, its still going to be 400+ kg on about 3 sq inches of bearing area if you are lucky. remove the plugs and be happy fred.

me too, and i've done this before myself, and will do it again (particularly with the crappy deck still visible. i recommend that you pull down the pic though as you never know what sort of dodgy bugger is looking at it. if you bother, i'll edit this away... starlet looks fantastic! always loved kp61 starlets.

you're onto it. i actually fed mine full to the supply pump with a little carby pump first, but i'm paranoid some light oil in the bores and a towel over the top, and the plugs out and ign /injection disconnected till you have oil pressure and the plugs back in. if you had the head off, you should have moly greased the cams and lifters so that should be ok. if not, the will survive alright anyway.

i thought i'd post this here to illustrate the point about viscosity and temperature of the weather/usage thats for an 88 mazda F series motor. but its similar for all vehicles.

depends how old the stock you are looking at is. i looked about 7 months ago, and it was sm then. it didnt used to be, but was then. jafa stores tend to have high turnover. if you are small town, perhaps its still sitting on the shelf from 1983? overfilling the engine will just cause it to burn and or leak it. can also help glaze the bores. over tightening the clearances can lead to burnt valves from not seating properly. you should adjust them correctly to the right figure. there is some technique in it. i think i last adjusted valve clearances about 6 years ago well designed HLA's and clean oil for the win