cletus

Faded/dull clear coat

It has not bubbled or lifted yet but it's not far off 

Is there any magic jizz that restores this back to concours perfection? Or does a half decent job of slowing the inevitable march of time and deterioration?

Or should I spend my time on more productive things 

If it's a new style tag with photos- possibly

If it's an older engraved plate that just says it's a bedford camper - probably not 

Is it top or bottom ball joint that has run out of travel?

Side note, going from 6 stud to 4 is likely going to be problematic for cert 

The one with the red circles is the original one that I failed for poor casting 

The original pic is of a replacement upright that "is definitely not welded" 

Everyone I have shown the pic to says its welded 

I, 100% think it's welded based on what I can see in the pic  

The guy maintains its fine and just looks like that because he scotchbrited it 

Unfortunately because it's a cast suspension part, welding = no Bueno 

There is a hole in that part, the coilover mounts to it

I'd be interested to hear anyone's opinions on this...

It's a suspension upright 

I always paint mine. 

I use BBQ paint from bunnings. Lasts very well

8 hours ago, zep said:

Ok, sweet. I guess I just don't want to have it all nice and neat only to find that I need to do something major that requires repainting things. With the painted suspension/chassis/etc, you still want to see unpainted pics of welds and stuff right?

 

If it's just got a coat of black on it, usually ok and don't need to see it in the nude

If it was getting filler or powdercoat then need to see it first 

You can usually see if a weld is OK thru regular paint 

Have been asked twice by wof guys if different colour matters

It doesn't, but it would be better if you can do the final cert pics when it's all done so you don't have to deal with that

It is a cert requirement to paint any modified areas so your suspension and chassis etc will need to be painted with something for cert  

I have wondered about a small electric motor assist system that drives a belt attached to the diff, that could recharge a battery when braking

Even a little one that makes 20hp or something like that, enough to keep a car rolling on flat ground 

Yep they can be tack welded together, if the weld is not doing anything apart from holding the 2 bits together for assembly, preventing someone from putting it together incorrectly by a spacer going missing 

If a weld is transmitting any brake load though, different story 

No worries. Makes sense to use someone that's not 4 hours drive away haha 

3 hours ago, Raizer said:

@cletus any experience with TiTAN suspension/coilovers?
/Anything to look out for on them in regards to cert?

Seem to be pretty well regarded in Aus, but I'm 99% sure they are Malaysian rather than the Aussie made they seem to try to imply on the website.

 I've done one car with those , I would think they are probably very similar quality wise to yellowspeed/xyz/d2 etc 

Ie, for a road car, ok 

Making sure the bump stop limits travel before the front upper ball joint hits the body is probably the main thing to look out for 

Another thing

Imagine if you bought one, and wanted to use it for work? 

You'd never get anything done, there would be so many people pestering you to take photos or ask about its features that you wouldn't have time to replace mrs Bensons leaking tap 

My boss bought a Maloo ute when they were still an expensive vehicle, he got it cheap off someone who needed money. He drove it for a couple of weeks but got sick of the attention and "whoa Mr flash guy must be good money in certs" comments and went back to his AU wagon 

1 hour ago, Ned said:

Thats where 800V batteries are a dream, they can charge even quicker... wait until you see an ID.4 charge at 250kw and get from 0-80 faster that you can get a big mac from a friday night drive thu

Does that prematurely chooch the battery? If you do fast charging regularly 

17 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

^this

Speed monitoring in the name of road to zero, speed is the only thing anyone ever should be thinking of 

Distance you travel ("you could have walked or bicycled")

Driving behaviors,  excessive acceleration 

Travelling somewhere that it's encouraged not to ie city center at x time 

Because poms are used to cars that are pieces of shit? 

Did you figure out what it is? 

The 'ute tax' / clean car fee/ rebate for evs  finishes then.

It won't be RUCs 

Small BSA? @RXFORD had one maybe?

19 hours ago, Kiwibirdman said:

Where this could get interesting is if someone has bought a new Hilux off a Dealer and said give me everything including bull bars etc on a new vehicle. If the bull bar fitted by the dealer doesn't meet standard then there could be a claim under consumer law.

 

There was probably thousands of utes sold new from dealers with lift kits that didn't comply 

I went to a large dealer once to cert a vehicle that had big wheels or something,  it also had strut spacers and longer shackles . I told them I had to cert those as well, and it had problems which meant it couldn't be certed as it was

Apparently the supplier of the parts had told them that they didn't need cert so there was a whole lot of utes new from the dealer which weren't legal

because of 3 year wofs, it didn't come up as a problem and I think if the dealer was doing the wof and service it doesn't get picked up for ages  

Then it gets taken to a different place for a wof, knocked back and they ring me saying "there's been a rule change and now I need a fuckin cert, it's bullshit, it's been that way since new and it's fine" 

20 years would probably be sensible then it would align with 20+ yo cars not needing to meet standards for importing etc