cletus

A common rust trap on valiants is the plenum area under the windscreen. the heater gets fresh air from in here thru the vent. inside the plenum is not painted very well and has a couple of bits where water/leaves/dirt can sit and rust, and repairing rust is a prick, you really have to cut off the top, fix the rust and seal it all back up again. this one was pretty good, but as the heater didnt work anyway, and its going to be living outside and i hate wet carpets i decided to seal it up so it cant ever leak...

exhaust requirements and wording as to where it comes out in the first part of this http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ssions.pdf

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplement ... eshold.pdf here is the list of things that you can do WITHOUT a cert.

you can run braided line right up the car i do remember something somewhere about a maximum amount of flexible hose like what kk mentioned, i think that may be an nzdra or similar rule. i personally would use hardline where possible, its cheaper and you only have to replace a small amount of hose when its perished instead of heaps.

that is sweet. like those wheels + height.

vs? got a pic? this one isnt mine, but same thing.

from where did you purchase such an item?

yep bench ones were column shift. ive got a vs commo wagon with bench/column/6chairs

ah yes forgot about diseasels and their vibrations

these things go pretty good, a mate of mine had a manual one with similar mods to what you are doing and it hauled ass. one thing to check is the throttle cable, the outer goes hard and falls to bits on top of the rocker cover and the throttle doesnt open 100%

ive never bothered putting them in exhausts in rwd vehicles,cant think of any manufacturers that put them in factory either. front tuggers need them though.

i did a diy alignment on my vg id read somewhere that vals suffer from a lack of caster/factory spec is none. so i just maxed out the adjustment inwards on the rear of the arm, and outwards on the front, and set the toe by watching what the tyre does- roll it foward, if the tyre bulges out at the bottom and tucks back in when you roll it back, it has toe out. i adjusted it until the tyre doesnt change when it rolls foward and back. this was meant to be temporary but ended up driving it like that for ages. when i went to get a wheel alignment the only thing he adjusted was the toe- a little bit of toe in to counteract the camber- which was about 2 degrees. toe out is more of a tyre killer than camber too. here are some specs from a charger book i have,

steam roller wheels spent today removing luxury items- power steer was leaking, so put the manual box out of the green one in it, i dont like the v8 booster setup so wont run a booster. if you havent had the pleasure of seeing a chrysler v8 booster , here is one. yuck. theres a push rod off the pedal which isnt straight, which pushes on a pivot bar , which pushes the booster, all on a dumb angle. this is all cause the engine isnt in the middle of the car, its offset to the drivers side, so there isnt enough room.

Looks sweet man!

actually was looking for a wagon when this came up..... would be more family friendly.

chucked some paint in the general direction of the engine today. wheels are off getting widened, the wheels will also be this colour, body satin black.

nissan serena/largo also transverse leefs

oil pressure is what takes up the slack in a hydraulic lifter, so if you have removed them it is possible to push the plunger in by hand. thats why you will quite often hear a rattly lifter when you start a hydraulic cam engine when its been sitting a while, because a valve has been open/lifter on the cam lobe, the lifter bleeds down as the valvespring pushes against it.

if the lifters are visibly concave on the base then they are fucked. what is supposed to happen, is the lifter is flat on the bottom, the cam lobe is ground with a slight angle on it, as the lobe pushes the lifter, the lifter spins in its bore. once stuff wears, the lifter wont spin any more and everything wears faster. had a 302w apart for a noisy lifter a while ago, it had worn thru the bottom of the lifter. all this is why its very important to run in a cam correctly on older v8s

have a look at the valvesprings, make sure one hasnt broken. im sure i have a distant memory of a 302 clevo i worked on years ago that had some weird problems, and we replaced valvesprings to fix them.......

i guess it would legally be a modification, but i doubt anyone would care/notice if done well

some of those mini adjustable cones need shorter shocks as well, they come loose at full droop sometimes

dye penetrant is ok, has to be done by a qualified person, i cant remember off the top of my head what the qualification is

it is. currently you cant even cert struts like that if they are made by a shock manufacturer, let alone modified by someone. somebody must have been having a stevie wonder day

depends on the certifier and thier location/travel time- stuff like that but up here in high-roller auckland, we charge 460 incl gst retail as a basic cert, depending on the mods it goes up from that