cletus

this. single leaf doesnt have enough strength to locate diff proper like no reason why you couldnt do it if you convert to a link style rear suspension however

which part of the rule says that?

heres how it works in real life, and the rule is intended like this= you fit a bigger version of the same engine, it needs cert you modify your original engine to make over 20% more power than stock, it needs cert you modify your original engine ie bore it out and it makes less than 20% more power, doesnt need cert you fit a smaller engine of the same type, doesnt need cert

Clint Field likes this. that converter looks like a work of art. what are your plans for the diff?

yea if you could do it without welding then i see no reason why you couldnt do it.

have to be captive at the certed height. if you want to lower it to the 5% tolerance you would have to make sure they are still captive.

are those coins in that last one? hah

wont need crack testing, i have certed a couple of bmws with similar sort of mods to get rear camber ok for cert. as long as the welding is good then you shouldnt have any trouble

if you cant find the locknut, a sharp cold chisel on the outer part and big hammer should get it off

yes, if you want to be 100% sure it will pass, tig it. most struts done this way have the join under the threaded sleeve so the sleeve adds strength to the join

yea. sunroof 12 slots and eagers 265 hemi jacked up in the back with the diff painted red lake pipes kerb feelers mullet stubbies singlet proper old tin can of lion red jandals

heres the relevant bit on the lvvta website http://lvvta.org.nz/approvals.html#design

westy- you rang me a while back about the bmw with the front end changed around? if thats the case the design approval will be for non oe front end geometry- a front suspension with changed pickup points/geometry etc has to be approved by tac. so did you take it for a cert inspection and the certifier asked you to get design approval, or did the car pass and the certifier sent the paperwork through and it got picked up then?

this, needs authority card for plastic windows

if it was strong enough to not flex etc then i suppose it could be used. i would be careful though, there are a lot of bolt on things for various cars that claim to "make x better/improve traction/ reduce bumpsteer etc etc" that make things actually worse. to me that looks like it would make pinion angle change worse with suspension movement as the upper links are shorter than original. i dont know very much about mustang rear suspension tuning though, you have undoubtedly done more research on the subject than i ever want to haha

you would have to make something work, there must be some bit of structure for the hanger bearing to bolt to, maybe you could mount the loop off that? the loop does not have to be straight across

you can get the car certed for 2 different size wheels, id have to find out if the lower price 'amendment' thing applies if you want 2 sets of rims on the plate or if it would be full price

Toe-n-go! haha

^this. you need to find an old school type wheel alignment guy to do a valiant properly, they are a bit of a prick to do. both the camber/caster adjusters are on the top arm on an eccentric bolt. would pay to have a real good look at all the balljoints and bushes- especially the lower arm inner bush- every valiant ive ever owned has been worn out in most of the front end parts. they are also prone to cracks where the front upper arm foward mount is welded on to the chassis

not sure how you would successfully shorten a carbon fibre driveshaft.

the australian is correct

yes car has to match what the cert plate says

yes if it all works, correct spring rate, length is right etc, then that would be fine.

driveshaft loop/s is required when if the vehicle is scratch-built if it has a modified driveshaft if you have done an engine conversion that has a significant power increase if you add a turbo or supercharger to the original engine if you modify the engine so it has a significant power increase "significant power increase"= 50% more power than OE here is the info sheet http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf