kpr

Yup, thats the same inlet test i was referring to.   

Have you looked into s65 bmw throttles?  they are 52mm, spacing should be pretty close for k series.  the also have an oval outlet  similar shape to the port.   Have a separate dbw module  that can be used if wanted to go that way. but is known to crap out. 

I'd  probably target  8000rpm  maybe a touch under for your intake runner length.   about 320mm from port face should get you ballpark.    you want to  get the intake tuning right where the engine naturally wants to make peak power.  will make more power and fatten it up that way.  rather than kinda trying to force it to make more power right up top. like your current intake looks to be doing.    The VCT  (cam timing)  is also your friend here.  you can use it to hang onto the power past peak a bit longer.   If do everything right it should at least match the power it has now right up top 8500- 9k and make a bunch more 7500- 8000rpm plus more through the mid range 

The runner length on the manifold in video is around the 350mm mark, as was targeting bit lower rpm. 

Tuned a  1.5jz  with all the good bits on it the other day.  had those xpert injectors in it. maybe the 1350cc version, still a decap'd bosch either way.     was happily making over 400kw, no drama tuning it. 

you can also get the genuine 7 hole bosch injectors which are 980cc.  if dont want a modified injector

looking at your thread you have something like below.  and are thinking of dropping smaller after the 2.5" collector?

This is what i was meaning. angle straight down to 2" or so  where all 4 pipes collect.    The big straight through is key to making it work.  think of the exhaust ending after them.   what you do after isn't so important.  long as the pipe size is big enough not  restrict airflow.   merging into a single 2.5" probably fine in your case.   but you cant make it too big. just makes it harder to cut the noise down.   all the power is in the headers and the section before the first reso's

run the biggest glass pack straight through muffler /resos  you can fit for the  first mufflers.  put the chambered ones at the back

sizes yeh you can drop down smaller, but need to do it at the merge.   then go back out kinda like a megaphone setup.  if you do it right and place  said above mufflers in right place.  will gain  power off the bottom. 

1 hour ago, xsspeed said:

would be interesting to see if you could, I'm guessing either the cranks are mounted higher in a 4gr or the piston compression height is significantly different between the two (or both) to account for such stroke difference. solution is only a custom set of rods away if need be

probably just the usual shorter block height on the 4gr,   usually a toyota / most manufacturers move. save some material cost and make engine bit shorter.    so yeah  longer rods  would be needed.  probably giving a rod ratio well over 2.    bigger bore, bigger valves bit more capacity.  probably blow the budget, but would be pretty cool if the crank did swap over

2gr with 4gr  crank.  

Nar sorry, ones ive been using were bran new.  ( they are about 220 on amayama)  
yeah the small gear. it kinda looks like its backwards when its in the right way

Ive pulled one of those (vvti pulley) apart a million times.   pretty basic. but can put the together backwards hah.     only thing i suggest doing is sitting it on the cam and making sure it freely rotates through tis whole travel. there isn't really anything that locates them central,  if get them a little off can bind up at at one end of the travel.   I usually put it on the cam and rotate it back and forward nipping up the bolts. 

Valve to valve isn't an issue in my case either with wide angle head.   piston to valve = yes.       The exhaust cam timing is not so much that it can be off and work.  it needs to be right  and  when its right, its pretty happy to work across the whole rev range.  when its off it kinda sucks almost everywhere

If you wanted to try something in the meantime,  you could take the spacers out of the plenum.  Have some thick head flanges cut to space the manifold out at the head end, lengthening the intake runner.   Maybe a couple at 25mm  so can stack them see what works best.  I'm guessing around 50mm would do the trick. Maybe could get them cut from something for some thermal insulation at the same time.  

runner diameter being a bit oversized  isn't actually much of an issue.  unless its way oversized.  
length is probably an issue though. 

you can see its doing something weird on the dyno sheet, which is most likely the intake runner length.    looks like its wanting to work at 8500. which makes the dip at 7500.    if the runners were a bit longer (most likely factory length)   so it was tuned for 7800-8000rpm  would  make more power.   its something that can be shuffled with the cam timing to a point also. your tuner probably should have already tried that though.

Ideally get those itb's on and make the intake runners way longer.   nothing off the shelf will get you there either due to fitment issues, or too hard to make. 

Oh and the intake plenum size.  probably aren't loosing any power there, unless your loosing some  effect from the intake tube.  bigger plenum damping out the pressure waves, unsure how much of a thing that is.    There will be a little bit in getting the intake tube the right length and size. but wouldn't expect big numbers  from it. 

Yeah numbers are  degrees, but but dont reference to anything other than the pulley position . 0 being fully retarded.   
 from memory you can change it, so it shows referenced to crank position.  but it just makes it confusing to setup/tune

Yeah you can see  the actual timing (yellow) misses the target (pink)   by a little when you get back on the gas.  but by the time your at full throttle its matching the target. 

top one is your current  "vvt"  map.    since race car and assuming you dont care about fuel economy,  I'd  run something more like the bottom.  or a less aggressive ramp at least.   so your always on target when get back on the gas.  Not really much of an issue in your case but thought would explain it better. 

Ive compared mine, which essentially mimics at 1j/2j   setup vs @Roman daves  1nz setup and seems to react pretty similar.   yours seems a little faster.   either a honda thing or the control is a little better in g4x

I was going to comment  about probably changing the cam timing map. so  it doesn't go to zero cam advance when throttle is closed.   due to the mechanical time it takes the cam to re advance when get back on the throttle.
but looked in the log and looks like it keeps real well. nice one mr honda.  so isn't really that much of an issue. possibly a little more crisp on the throttle if changed it.

As for  what cam timing it needs. will need to be done per engine.   unless 100% stock to 100% stock.    as changes to the intake and exhaust will change what cam timing it likes.
The shape of  the cam timing map  looks  right.    starts to retard at high rpm etc

This as part of the log   @Hyperblade  posted.   cam stuff at the bottom

The vvti control works real well even on my old g4 link. 

There is a excel 4 link calculator floating around which is good.    Its pretty hard to get a textbook setup.  will likely end up with a compromise somewhere.  but so is most factory stuff.    I would suggest having a few extra holes either side of what the calculator spits out,   at least one end of your links, where room is available.  

From what i can tell the "instant center"  is just a dumbed down way of getting you in the ballpark,  that comes from all the other numbers being about right.  
there is lots to it, some of it doesn't matter too much depending what your trying to achieve,  other stuff does.

They will rev cut if throttle is closed and  revs go over x amount.    if not running the water lines to throttle body,  will idle higher when warms  up.  as uses the water temp to slow idle.   might get away with adjusting idle screw or throttle stop.   otherwise vac leak somewhere

sorry just seen this.  the cam pulley sizes are the same between 16v and 20v engines.   36 tooth.     is the bigger round tooth pitch.  i forget the numbers now.    I couldn't find much that  matched to pitch and tooth count when was hunting for pulleys awhile back.  most were 40 tooth. or the smaller pitch

I get asked punishing requests every day.

just happened to read this before going to fill up at gasser.     absolute zero effort to tune any thing for economy. and its borderline tuned properly for cruise atm.    but put this here for reference next time is on dyno as i'll forget the numbers.  
yeah it pulls 4000rpm at 100k.  so never going to be prius spec haha.
its like a cyclone out, and road wasn't completely flat  so somewhere.   ran it both ways.  probably 8.5% throttle is 100k on dead flat.   vvti 40 degrees.   so have 40 to go full prius/retard.

the dyno hp readout doesn't have enough resolution to do cruise stuff.   but using the torque numbers  and running in a lower gear to mulitply the torque, for more resolution  works well.