kpr

I'm feeding it off the main oil gallery front of engine. The solenoid part is the easy bit. Just have it remote mounted. A v2 maybe on the cards to try eliminate some of the lines .

Yea as above engine spins in same direction so cams do as well. Basics of it is, there is a advance camber and retard camber. to advance cam, solenoid sends oil down advance gallery. at the same time it opens drain on the retard gallery. same shit but the other way around to retard the cam. to hold the cam at a timing number will be equal pressure on both sides, G oil feed D cam advance E cam retard F drain The 20v setup i had on there just has one oil feed to pulley to advance cam. and relies on rotation of engine to retard the cam back to zero. no need for cam shaft position feed back, since its just on/off

Everything is custom made or modified parts off various engines. I spent a lot of hours machining stuff. but even more figuring out how to make everything fit and work. so yeah nothing really bolted on, but was interesting how some stuff off other engines fitted together with some butchery. I may have got away without doing it. but i used the bigger jz pulleys to allow more room to get the oil feeds to the vvti. also liked the idea of going to a wider belt and higher pulley tooth count at same time. went for the jz pulley over the beams, as heard stories they are a complete dick put back together if pull them apart, due to having a big spring in them. the jz one is a walk in the park to pull apart put back together. Its also cheaper to buy new Theres only a tiny advantage having it on the exhaust side power wise, not worth the effort

So I pulled the head off looking for bendy valves in cylinder no3. but all looked good. guess kinda makes sense the rings are toast in that cylinder will all the smoke. the whole thing was built with worn out old junk and all the bores look horrible. but need to test more stuff. so put it back together with a trd head gasket. that had been reused, i lost count how many times. stock 1.2mm trd .8mm metal. some copper coat and back together again Still smokes like a train as expected. try not to let it idle so doesn't fill the cylinder with unburnt fuel.. seems to have gained about 3kw. 2kw at worst with the trd head gasket 100c run same as above, 120kw on stock cams!

Ok, so i ignored all the oil leaks and bent valves, put it on the dyno. most of its working as planned. im not sure how fast its meant to respond. this is unloaded 1st,2nd,3rd and bit of 4th on dyno. which is a bit faster than it would accelerate on the road. It doesn't keep up in 1st, which is borderline free revving. but the rest is pretty good. some adjustments probably can get it even better. first attempt I had it setup for too much advance and not enough retard. so skipped a tooth on cam belt which got it pretty close. after a few runs with cam timing fixed at different settings, built a rough vvti map. using around 35 degrees of travel throughout the rev range. It could go a few more adjustments, as can see in the graph below where the fixed timing slightly edges it out in places. Doesn't look super impressive, but weak stock cams will do that Red is vvti holding 28degrees throughout rev range, which simulates the best compromise on a fixed timing setup blue is my rough vvti map To get that 114kw peak on a fixed timing setup would lose a huge amount of midrange After that i had a play with the exhaust cam timing, was slightly off. then run it up at 100deg oil temps. i usually run tests at 90 or 95 because easier to keep there. but hotter oil will make more power Almost 117kw with stock cams (not even bluetops) and some bent valves and an amazing amount of smoke coming out the exhaust. must be some kinda record? red is stock ish bigport. same good header and exhaust. stock intake. same cams!

Got a bunch of teething issues and stuff to finish properly. but managed to run it for a bit. it was a bit wacky on the "2jz" vvti settings. after messing around with the pid settings a little, looks promising. cam is advancing and retarding and matching the target in vvt map. The cam belt and pulley setup works good, no issues. have a 25mm wide belt on there, stock is 19mm. Also this engine is stuffed, I had incident where the bolts backed out (may not have tightened them properly) of the 20v vvt setup. the inlet cam jammed up and bad stuff happened. after that it was down 5kw or so, but still made over 130kw ha! compression test come back 150, 150, 100, 150. now with stock cams back in it its super obvious, runs on 3 cylinders until get over 2000rpm. I'll pull it apart once happy with how the vvti setup works.

Almost ready to bend some more valves

spinning triangles with magnets

Because putting vvt on your 4age isn't complex enough. This is my approximately 84% complete vvti setup, along with belt drive upgrade. Its at the point where ive got all the major components figured out. Just need the last little bits to come together. Then test on engine to see if its a complete fail or not. Since is probably fallen way off the radar. you can tell me how retarded i am here: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21726-kprs-starlet/page/28/

I haven't noticed any significant change between 95 and 98 gull. Thats same tune, no o2 compensation. But.. i did spend some time on the dyno the other day and found a few places at low throttle where it liked a little more timing. so that could have been an advantage when filling with 98 gull, evening things out a little. A lot of the time up here 98 gull is actually a little cheaper than 95 Along with finding a few small things in the tune. put some slightly less tar in for oil, and the plastics back on under the front of car. and yeah 7.2L per 100k which worse than normal haha. but that was already 100k's in, then tuning on dyno on that tank. see how the next tank goes, but give up. Although i did forget to see what difference it made with vvt on/off at cruise

irrelevant sharn; e10 also needs a few degrees less timing to make the same power as normal 95. but both make the same power if not knock limited and timing set right for the fuel used. so if your engine was under timed for 95 and just throw some e10 98 in the tank it would gain a little power

Please no. Although cant be any worse than a megasquirt

I dunno how carbs work. but end of the day its just a hole the air and fuel goes though. If sized right should be same same. only real advantage carb has is fuel introduced further from valve so more cooling effect. but yeh same can be done with efi of course efi will run nicer. higher the power will be even more in favor of efi. as will need to run bigger carb/s which will suck (or not suck enough to work) at low rpm.

stock ecu was about 14.3 afr in most cases after it stopped doing wacky shit and listen to the o2, not great not terrible. guessing my normal is not the same as what you call normal. If driven nicer on open road on longer trips im sure it would easy do low 6's how it is now. Nar, never heard of that. there was this hurricane intake idea though ?

Seems basically same as what ive found, you have to go real small on the runners to get any significant low end benefit. Will start to loose top end before see any real change down low. (tvis again) some people swear by small intake runner, but its usually on a crappy setup that has reversion issues. basically adding more pressure on the intake side to combat the exhaust flowing back. but not the way to fix it. going too big is a thing. but worse going too small

This my 20v junk. 400k on half tank. but the tank some kinda upside down triangle. 2nd half does like 100k's ha. consistently does low 7L/100km. windy country road driving, hills and shit. with the od 8k nang here and there. open road should be in the 6's easy. stock ecu it was doing 9.8L/100km. something was a bit screwed with it. but using that much fuel the link has paid for itself so yeh not bad for something thats not really eco spec. although the panel work resembles a golf ball.

40mm runner seems to choke out at 130kw. have tired it on couple different setups. throttles that size mounted close to port and runner tapering bigger, probably good for a little more. Maybe nz engine would actually benefit from opening the whole port up a little. assuming they would be designed for high air speed at lower rpm to get that economy

TVIS ! Bluetop 4age conversion is the answer

fuel filter. fuel pump if its still the 30year old factory one, may save you a walk home one day.

toque curve just some math. would look like this.

not sure sorry, they have basic vvt on intake. which advances the cam 30deg when on. usually switching back off between 6-7000rpm. They make best power with 28-30 degrees ign timing up top. haven't come across any weird spots where they need more advance. pretty much like the same ign curve as 16v head

Block itself has different sump bolt pattern to 16v, but just use 20v sump. external oil drain not drilled, but otherwise pretty much same. pistons different, the valve cutouts will be in wrong place for 16v head. i dont know if will actually work, but would at lest be limited to little/factory cams. rods same as late 4agze smallport. the 509gram ones. so yeh swap pistons and same thing

With the intake and exhaust changes, my 20v junk seems to use less fuel. so good excuse to do that exhaust.

pre cooling the intake doesn't do much at all. especially in romans case, since pretty much his whole intake is plastic. which will transfer very little heat. The air going into intake different story NOS goes against the whole NA tuning thing imo. may as well just jam a 150 shot on a stock echo - maybe someone should do this

I dont recall those tyres dropping trap speed at low pressure. well not significantly anyway. 10psi and 8k launch should get it moving. need to run less in them than if it were a rwd 13.8 is pretty impressive, but should go at least 13.6 i recon