kpr

yea nar that would turn into another suspension tuning nightmare. less changes i have to do between off and on road the better. ideally just a wheel swap

The offroad stuff is a bit of a steep learning curve coming from car stuff. biggest thing that got me to start with, was springs rates are way lower than you would expect. i wasted a lot of money as was scared of going too soft. Basically the primary rate (both springs combine) needs to be soft enough to get the vehicle down to ride high with at least an inch of preload. which in my case is 6inches of droop. the preload needs to be there to push the shock out to full extension when doing jumps etc. kinda similar to what your staying about the race car stuff. guessing they are using the dual rate to do similar, since preload on a high rate single spring will make droop near non existent Seems to be a lot of different theories on how to setup the dual rate change over. seems none of the "suspension tuners" like to give out there secrets, especially when it comes to shock valving. Other than the few things above, springs are just there to hold the thing up, valving is everything on offroad stuff. shocks need to have fairly low rebound dampening so wheels drop out fast enough, so have max travel to soak up the landing. but too little is also all bad. the compression valving needs to be stiff enough to soak up the big stuff, while using most of the travel to do it and also not ride rough as shit over the small stuff. They are progressive shocks and can tune the low to high speed dampening to a point, by the way and thickness the valving shims are stacked. gives most people shits the first time you blast through the paddock at 80k's, after doing a few laps at 10-20k, as it actually rides fairly rough at low speed. now try make all that work on the road as well..

cant say i've actually been in anything like that, so don't have much to compare it to. but sounds about right. the main issue was it getting upset mid corner. can deal with the body roll long as it isn't crazy, which it was borderline without the swaybar

Tray back on. Still handled bad on the road, better than with no swaybar but still junk. Figured out main problem was due to the lack of rebound dampening in the shocks combined with the dual rate springs. Basically how it was setup, if were going around a corner and hit it bump, it would hit the 2nd spring rate (which is over double primary) and bounce back. making the truck wobble like a bowl of jelly. Manged to get it to work alot better with some adjustments. Backed off the adjusters on the rear shocks so pretty much never hits the 2nd rate on the road. so there is no sudden change in spring rate. Letting the swaybar do its thing to control the roll. Tried the same with the front shocks, which did make it better but more body roll. Then went full retard and set it up so the front is on the 2nd spring rate at ride height. Surprisingly this worked sweet with alot less body roll. I need to drive something else for awhile, then test it out again before decide if its good enough. or if i was just getting use to driving a deathtrap. Offroad; again, surprisingly it rips in the paddock now. less roll and still soaks up the bumps good. rear rides nicer due to the later spring rate change. Because boring ramble: Put a light bar on it, because some gezzer on nz offroader said it would make it more capable off road and pick up the ladies Not gonna ever use it,, just a gimmick to scare 4wd barrys

Maybe. Probably worth seeing how much cert guy laughs at me anyway

Lost count how many bottles of argon have sunk into this thing over the years. bar ain't gonna fall off. Bit less flex now. but still pretty good. Still need to make the tray fit, as the rear mounts interfere with the arms. so only did a short test run. still has a lot more body than your usual road vehicle, as expected. but seems more stable and progressively rolls rather than falling into the corners like it did before.

Yeah it shutdown to everyone. pity as it was literally 2mins down the road. starting to get hard to find places to go up here now.

yep kinda only place the bar can go, because some diddle put a fuel tank in the way. so yeah the tie rods have to be that long. but it also means they are working on less angle when suspension gets towards end of its travel

Did send oldmate an update after done a bit of work to the truck, seemed stoked i was fixing it up. Unsure how he would feel now i've cut it up and put all the dents back in it Hopefully wont have to bother disconnecting and run with it on all the time. but worst case its only quick zing with the rattle gun to remove a link to disable the bar. so far its looking good to run it all the time. ran out of argon to finish welding it. so no test run yet. but jacking it up it still flexes fine. and since the rear spring rate is only half the front. seems to evened out front to rear flex. actually levels itself out now. before could jump on one side of the truck and it would stay sitting on the piss

With the soft springs and lack of rebound valving truck tends to do this.. watch very end, kinda missed it. Not turning in the vid, my crappy ali fish eyed camera just makes it look like its a corner. its ok in 4wd, just does it in 2wd under power. but tbh don't really care that it does it under power. mostly the body roll around corners is a bit extreme . enter "offroad swaybar" kit. its basically a weak swaybar that can handle high travel. not sure how well its going to work, will find out the hard way like usual. Had to relocate the limit straps again , 4th time??

seemed like a good idea. but exhaust grows when it gets hot. Edit: catcher mode on:

Yup its been awhile! Exhaust doesn't sound too much different that the old, one other than few less rattles

rotating mass sucks, put light flywheels on everything

starting to get this ali welding sorted. half my issue was the torch and cup setup was junk and leaky. got a new gas lens setup and the old china welder is working legit again center section between the 2 mufflers Need a couple more bends before can finish the exit

old exhaust that got beaten with a big hammer going full retard again, thats aluminum tube after the muffler. had some leftover ali from something else. so machined a couple of v band flanges to adapt from stainless to aluminum

Shouldn't be too hard to mount the single tooth one without the backing plate. i retained all the covers on mine just to keep the mud and crap out. These are the ones i used. have had zero issues since installed them. timing doesnt jump around at all when checking with timing light. unlike stock triggers https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensors/3076224/?searchTerm=307+6224&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E285C647B362C377D5B4161426250705D297C285C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D5B4161426250705D3F292426706F3D3126736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3330372036323234267374613D3330373632323426

you'll probably struggle find a hall that will fit in the place of the vr sensors. there isnt alot of room in there. only time ive had the stock vr triggers work well with ms is with a zeal daughter board. but that was along time ago. haven't used ms since. if you dont want to go the usual trigger wheel on crank pulley. can try what i done, hall sensors on the cam pulley 36-1 . look in my hilux project thread for more info . prob a few pages back.

Exhaust is pretty junk. has be cut up and beaten with a hammer to fit around the link setup & crossmember , because couldn't be assed making a new system at the time. after all that it still vibrates on the chassis Originally was going to make an ali muffler to keep weight down. but had this old stainless extinguisher hanging about. Drilled some 3" holes and chopped and end off. brought perf baffle for it and a reso Packing done. it sucked to weld because its super thin, maybe 0.9mm. but its pretty much the same weight as the reso and alot lighter than the one on the truck. lets see if it blows up looking through both mufflers. Since i was too lazy to test fit it before i built it. it doesn't actually fit where i was planning on putting it. have found a new spot for it, but more parts required.

That time of the year again, grass needs a trim on extra low

Some action from awhile back

Barry.co.ng

New seats. while the old ones were period correct, thats about all they had going for them. saved a little weight at the same time. welded some plates on the chassis, from the front suspension towers back to where the chassis is full height. so now when the chassis snaps in half doing jumps, i can say i attempted to make it stronger relocated the rear limit straps . when i done the new coilovers, reused the existing mounts, which didnt work too well. would only limit if the diff dropped straight down. so when getting hectic body roll or flex the shocks would top out. remounted them close to the coilovers, no more clunking. also put some longer 14" springs on the bottom of rear coilovers, so could get more adjustment out of the dual rate adjusters. have it switching to the 2nd rate a lot early like front, so body roll isnt so crazy now. Pretty happy how the suspension is working , possibly needs some more shock tuning. but just need to drive it more for now. springs should finally be good front have ended up with 150/200lb rear 80/110 lb

perfect execution, with maybe just a touch of spinal compression

This one shows the speed a bit better. yup its got some epic body roll. its always gonna be roly, but have yet another spring swap to go in the rear which will make it a bit better Probably said it before but the gearing kinda sucks in high range it'l do around 130k in 2nd gear, so its a bit of a sack when going from 1st to 2nd until it gets up some rpm but After the above vid decided to have a play with the timing, as its still running the same ignition map as when the engine was in my ae85. been meaning to do some adjustments for ages. Managed to put quite a lot more timing in while still being safe. Now its got more nuts everywhere. Which means more sideways and more air, put it back in shed shortly after.. Thinking it was a combo of the original tune being fairly conservative and my new 36+1 trigger setup being more accurate

This things a death trap , below will probably bore most people so just watch the vid.. Been doing some shock tuning, basically have to pull the shocks apart and change a bunch of shims on the shock piston. the shocks were factory 50/70 valving, which means 50 (.25mm shims) compression 70 (.3mm shims) rebound. thicker shims = more damping. plus can get creative and mix and match different sized shims to make the shocks more progressive etc. there are 5 shims on each stack plus and overload on the rear took some rebound out, put the .25mm stack off the compression side onto rebound side. also took compression out but left 2 of the .3 shims on the bottom of the stack so shocks stiffen up on a hard hit the above made quite a noticeable difference across the paddock alot less harsh. then did similar to the front, swapped the .25 compression onto rebound side. and put the .3 stack on compression plus swapped out the bottom shims for .4mm's like on the rear for more progressive damping the diffs now drop out alot faster so ready for next bump. the compression is more suited to the weight each end. still aint dialed but alot beter Any way end of the day, back on the marae. made truck go faster over shit / scary. actually looks super tame in the vids , going about 80k here. i can pass cars that are driving down the road..