kpr

Them gains when the blades disintegrate

Any suggestions where to get a decent tube and fin intercooler or just a core?

So, i was wrong.. it wasn't the intake that was restricting it on high boost. Still starts to brick wall around 200kw Red line is the new setup, Blue dual setup Not following what it does on low boost: Decided to test the pressure drop across the crappy china intercooler. I'm not fancy enough to have 2 map sensors. so these are back to back runs. Red run is measured pre intercooler. Blue post 1.5psi maybe doesn't sound so bad if were running 30psi. but at this boost, its 10% pressure loss. The way it gets worse as power and rpm increase suggests its junk also. was almost at the top of my list to replace anyway

From memory around 40mm to the roof, from the face of bellmouth. There was quite a bit of room from the edge of bellmouth to the plenum wall . New one air can basically go straight down the runner rather than all the air having to come over the edge of the bellmouth

Yup highlights pretty well whats left on the table, with the usual short runner intakes that are used on most turbo stuff. Is a bit more complex making it all work nicely though. Not even possible in some cases I'm kinda sold on the idea, that the the bellmouths were too close to the roof of the plenum, on the dual setup. The dual setup had bigger slots into the main plenum, area wise than the original stainless single throttle dual setup. but made less power. It really started to brick wall around the 200kw mark, more boost didn't add power as it should. Hence why i done all this testing at lower power level. The starlet also hated it soon as the plenum roof was stuck in place, even with taper tubes removed and a big open hole in the side. speaking of starlet,, will try the new intake on it when its on the dyno next, see how it performs compared to the open trumpets Also i'm sure a lot of people will be disgusted at how big the runners and plenum are on this thing.

Ok Just finished putting on the snuffleupagus. looking good so far! red is the dual plenum. blue new runs from all the other testing i done up there ^ somewhere blue: new plenum with correct runner length. green: weld elbows with dual plenum red : long ali bends with dual plenum pink: dual plenum bolted straight to throttles New setup wins everywhere. when back on the normal 13psi should get interesting

Pity its a 3s. If it was done based on a 4age it would look more like this :

Managed to stick it together ok ish with the old mitech. have done worse have done better.. Lost count how many days spent on it, but here it goes compressed into 10 mins :

Since runners would be already entering the plenum on a weird angle, decided to aim them forward a bit as well, for firewall clearance. That meant could run a full bellmouth on each runner also. So build up the sides with welder and linished them back nice plenum just needs a little trimming to fit base plate. then try make a mess of it with some janky welding Awaiting a 5 to 3" reducer to stick on the front to change to intercooler pipe size

I thought that may have been the case the way you worded it. worth seeing if toyota has them. I can attempt to measure the gap between the water pump and water neck on my 4age setup if you like? to see if they are the same. no guarantees tho as its a knob to get to without pulling stuff apart assume you have seen these ones ? 57 shipped bit spendy for a bit of pipe i guess. https://www.sq-engineering.com/product/16v-4age-water-bypass-pipe/

just get the right pipe. rwd 4age one probably same

id1000 Probably bit of an overkill. but shouldn't have any issues running them. They are at least based on a bosch injector which are cheaper. but the id's you get the deadtime data and a matched set for the extra money. have seen them run fine on smaller engines than yours. I run 980cc bosch ev14 injectors in my n/a 1600cc. on g4 link. cant really comment on how nice it idles with them because of big cams. but resolution wise, easy

You're limited to batch fire with G3. But are all good resolution wise, will run bigger stuff fine. its the old lem's and linkplus that struggled to run big injectors

your old injectors with the seal top and bottom (not the o-ring) usually have a little bit of pressure clamped from the fuel rail to seal off nice at manifold / head end. hence a rubber thing each end. the top one isn't actually a seal. newer injectors more just rely on the o-rings. you want get the fit close as you can, but otherwise long as they aren't flopping around in there, no issues. like roman suggests if you just get some upgrade injectors for and evo. should be able to wack them straight in. Injectors are better and newer ecu's are far better at controlling them. old ecus didn't have much resolution. so at idle with big injectors, the smallest increment change on the fuel map would be either too lean or too rich. good 1000cc injectors on a decent ecu work just fine now days. also as roman says if you can get some that come with dead time values. will end up with a nicer running engine once all tuned.

iat sounds normal, they will get pretty hot non intercooled. so yeh i would rule out the sc at least

Started to make a new plenum. 5" donut chop, butchered the old plenum to harvest the bellmouths. so yeh hopefully this works.. Done some more butchery, to the suspension tower cover this time. I did buy some cast elbows, but didn't like them. diameter was slightly too small and real sharp bend. managed to "reshape" the tower cover to gain enough clearance so could use the ali bends i used for testing. They have a id slightly bigger than the throttles, should be good. Still pretty close to the tower, but looks like it will all fit in there. the runners will enter the plenum on a bit of an angle, and same deal with bellmouths, they wont sit parallel with the base of plenum. Seems like a better compromise than using sharp bends

Not something simple as a stuffed thermostat ? what kinda iat temps are we talking ?

injector, coil, ecu etc.. 12v+ should only be on with key on. ecu supplies ground to switch injectors if injectors aren't working and no spark. check the 12v+ supply is good. if so its likely that the ecu isn't seeing the cas triggers. neither will do anything if ecu cant see rpm

i assume you have the igniter case grounded? if its a ali cased toyota ignitor case needs to be grounded

Have decided to make a more conventional style plenum to try on this, will make it with runners slightly shorter than the blue run. maybe some magic will happen, maybe not. when i tested the current plenum on the starlet it really didn't like it, so that was pretty good sign somethings not right. Made a vid on the same thing a few days back

what are you trying to do? sounds like you need to get the right ignitor looks like the ignitor you have is made to trigger off a reluctor wheel in the dizzy, which then fires the coil. - pretty much carb eletronic ignition the one you need the ecu tells it when to fire the coil .

Having some kinda issue at normal boost level. (13psi) suspect clutch is starting to slip. or possibly some kind of airflow issue, as it pretty much brick walls at 200kw even on 16psi boost. So in the meantime re did the tests at 6psi boost Red line is the same length at green line in above post. - long pipes cut down 25mm Blue line is with weld elbows - suspension tower in the way so had to use tighter radius bends Green is normal setup all of the runs were done within an hour of each other So yeh, maybe another 20 -30mm shorter should be the sweet spot. Not really what i was hoping for but still some not bad gains through midrange - around 5%. The good thing is that 5% multiplies with boost.

Started testing some more intake stuff yeh nar didnt run them that long ^ but made this abortion Red line is one of the best runs i could find from the itb setup Blue line is the run from the setup in picture above Green line is the same as blue, but runners cut down 25mm As can see cutting runners down the 25mm moved the peak higher in the rpm range. and starting to push the big loss off the end of chart Cant cut the current runners shorter due to tower clearance. so awaiting some tighter bends to carry on testing. Goal is to try get it to do the same thing as my na setup. get that peak to sit between 7000 -8000 rpm and gain about 15kw up top. depends if the sharp radius bends are an issue or not

if the preload is the same, will be same height. 10kg spring is a 10kg spring no mater the length. the longer spring will be made out of thicker material to compensate for length.

looks like a straw. and from a quick google, amongst all the usual shitfights general consensus is they are "loud"