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Posts posted by kpr
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Thats a lot of turbo for an L67. a gtx30** would probably be better suited. remember the NA barra makes decent bit more power than an NA L67. Which directly effects how much power it will make turbo and how well will spool the turbo
worst bara numbers i found:
Power: 182 kW (244 hp) @ 5250 rpm
Torque: 380 N⋅m (280 lb⋅ft) @ 3250 rpm
moo numbers177 (hp) Horsepower at 4800 Rpm
320 Nm @ 3200 Rpm | 236.02 lb.-ft. @ 3200 RpmIn a perfect world should make double the power on 1 bar boost ,can usually get close on a good setup. turbo not supercharger, they are horrible
bara - 488hp
moo - 354hp
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Long time no update. nothing really has happened to this thing other than being strapped the the dyno with various junk engines.
Current one being a long rod 4age, 7a block, 4a crank custom rods, smallport pistons. modified bigport head with 193b cams. so yeh just a polished turd. has all the blot-on's off my good engine
and the main reason i actually took the good engine out and put junker in, is this abomination
Its something Ive wanted to do since forever ago. actually made some parts way back. but ran into issues and all got to hard basket.
about 500 years past and attempted it again with a little help from a machinist friend.Intake cam pulley looks a little weird? Thats because its a vvt pulley off a 20v. They are just a simple on off 2 position deal. with 30 deg travel
After some teething issues, managed to do some initial testing today
The pink line is what it makes with my normal fixed timing. which is quite aggressively advanced. basically as much as can go, to gain all the midrange with minimal loss at peak. the downside is power drops fast after peak power
Red line is with vvt on from start of run, which a touch more advance that what it normally runs. Then switches off a 7300 retarding intake cam 30 degreeslittle red line is a "stockish" bigport engine. for reference
Great success? or did i just build a v8 that idles are 6000rpm
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The starlet alone is almost about to crack 1000 runs
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Peaches are back to defend their title
But all my money is on the road cones
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On 15/12/2021 at 15:05, GARDRB said:
Could you test different intake setups with some sort of smoke machine without detriment to combustion?
Put a smoke machine by the drivers side guard and see how the air flows into the different trumpets?
Also, @kpr do you want an old 32" TV for the dyno? I've got one in Kamo and could give it to David T to bring out to your place sometime.
Cheers for offer re tv. will pass though. the crappy little crt fits with my shed tetris at the moment.
Not sure about the smoke thing, since engine is consuming something silly like 7000L per min, likely wont see a lot unless have lots of smoke.
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Not the best example, as length was slightly off. but can see on the skinny blue runners. how they fall over up top, with only minimal gains down low.
Pretty much everything ive tired diameter wise, to make a gain in the bottom end, will take a big hit in the top end.
Waay more forgiving going oversized. example being something completely silly like the noodles. they hardly loose anything down low.
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bends dont really have any effect, probably a tiny bit in it if your runner size is borderline already. your average long radius bends are fine. those cast aluminum elbows are a bad day though. somewhere on my youtube i tested them
About 1 million people have asked me to test dimpled ones. haven't had any sent my way yet though.
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I just figured it out, they spin the wrong way for the southern hemisphere.
but yeh, been taking to @Roman about it. I might do some butchery, to see if can get them to work any better. I think making the slots bigger would be the first thing to try. cutting a hole in the end would kinda defeat the design
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Looks like it's hanging on really well!
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3 hours ago, shrike said:
9k is probably manageable (just?) Is it still making power and not peaking at 8500? ( next up dyno chart showing it off a cliff at 8600 )
What do you think the weak link will be next?
Rod bolts?
Oil system keeping up and bearings letting go?
Oil pump failure
Clutch?
10k I'm not so sure If serious lol
Liked your porting comment assuming it does widen the curve and increase midrange sounds good. Part of me thinks yes the cfm required will increase at lower revs due to less intake restrictions but the exhaust will still limit it. Not sure how much you'll pick up or how much wider to start.
Judging by his fuel map and having vvt. It should at least hang onto peak power for quite a few more rpm.
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Ive got you covered with that 10k rpm engine prep also. buy some 10 dollar drug dealer scales. weigh engine parts. butcher said parts with preferred item. so everything within .02gram. then proceed to completely ignore anything that spins, because that cost money to get balanced
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Oosh that fresh chinesium. Ive proven they are good to 10k rpm for at least 5 seconds. so your good to go
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9 hours ago, Testament said:
did noodles trump peaches?
looks like it could go either way. I'll have to resurrect the peaches
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That would be amazing
Yeah will run them all at same length. so all the 75mm ones will have the ali extendo bits on them, which as a small taper inside
the long blues aka "2. big straight blue lagoon" are actually made for silvertop throttles, so they a bit skinny compared to everything else. i just butchered the flange off the end.
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1 hour ago, deankdx said:
i will go for the long straight blue ones first, then the weird blue ones, then green because.. different also.
i was talking to a Cylinder Head reco dude(age 65 he was at the time) about match porting to the manifold. and he said some instances a poor match where particularly the exhaust port being smaller than the pipe/flange (aka bigger pipe than the port) helps with preventing a reversion effect(expanding gas though)
would any of this translate on intake runners?(stepped runners smaller diameter than the port)Yeah depends on the sizes. Port matching in most cases is pointless and in some will make it worse. Good example of this is my current junker engine. Has bigport head with itb setup designed for smallport just bolted straight on. Most people would lose there shit at the massive missmatch. But it actually fixes some of the sins of the oversized ports. If tried to make the manifold match the port size with a nice slow transition, it would be worse
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2 hours ago, ThePog said:
In order of best to worst;
Big White
Small white
Green swirly
Conduit
Small Blue
Blue Amazing
dont forget about the noodles! They are my only hope since no 3d printer
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@zep that chart i posted was trailgear stuff. if got 2 short side rock assault, would be at a guess 1300 ish wide. which probably too short?
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what length do you need? have you looked into aftermarket 4wd stuff? maybe something that you dont have to get re-splined
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Yeah easy. That part of the axles isn't hardened. You'll also need to watch out with the 6 stud ones the back side of axle flange too big to fit a smaller pcd. So will need to be machined smaller to fit the studs in. I recall way back my cert guy wasn't happy for that part of axle to be machined. I don't know If thats actually a thing or not. But maybe worth finding out first. Some of the hiace ones are also quite long
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Yeah so basically insignificant. I stand by my half track burnout making your car faster statement.
After many years of playing with stuff. If you need big compensation your setup sucks mechanically, your car is on fire or you have a efi 4k
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Turbo chat. Educate me (About wastegates)
in Tech Talk
Posted
Yeah if you do the math on the bara torque numbers is making 173hp at 3250rpm. which is pretty much peak power for the l67. so can see how the barra would spool turbo way sooner
So yeah look at the power rather than engine size if comparing
Just looking at the plusar page maybe something like this would be better suited. dont quote me on it haven't looked into it too hard.. https://www.pulsarturbo.com.au/collections/gtx-gen2/products/pulsar-gtx3071r-gen2-turbocharger
either way it'l go heaps better and probably more reliable with turbo over supercharger. since more stress on engine to make same power with supercharger