kpr

I haven't noticed any significant change between  95 and 98 gull.  Thats  same tune, no o2 compensation.    But.. i did spend some time on the dyno the other day and found a few places at low throttle where it liked a little more timing.  so that could have been an advantage when filling with 98 gull, evening things out a little.    A lot of the time up here 98 gull is actually a little cheaper than 95

Along with finding a few small things in the tune.  put some slightly less tar in for oil, and the plastics back on under the front of car.     and yeah 7.2L per 100k which worse than normal haha.   but that was already 100k's in, then tuning on dyno on that tank.  see how the next tank goes, but  give up.

Although i did forget to see what difference it made with vvt on/off  at cruise

irrelevant sharn;   e10 also needs a few degrees less timing  to make the same power as normal 95.   but both make the same power if not knock limited and timing set right for the fuel used.     so if your engine was under timed for 95 and  just throw some e10 98 in the tank it would gain a little power

On 19/03/2022 at 09:45, cletus said:

Someone needs to send @kpr a set of carbs for comparisons 

I'd bet that first part of the dyno run where it gets 100% throttle at low rpm would be funny 

Please no.    Although cant be any worse than a megasquirt

I dunno how carbs work.   but end of the day its just a hole the air and fuel goes though.     If sized right  should be same same.  only real advantage carb has is fuel introduced further from valve so more cooling effect.   but yeh same can be done with efi

of course efi will run nicer.  higher the power will be even more in favor of efi.  as will need to run bigger carb/s  which will suck (or not suck enough to work)  at low rpm.

14 hours ago, ajg193 said:

My friend's blacktop auto does about 6.8 L/100 km if treated somewhat normally. Yours must have been proper chooched

stock ecu was about 14.3 afr in most cases after it stopped doing wacky shit and listen to the o2,  not great not terrible.  

guessing my normal is not the same as what you call normal.   If driven nicer on open road on longer trips  im sure it would easy do low 6's  how it is now.   

9 hours ago, Roman said:

Have you ever thought about having golfball texture in the intake?! 

Nar, never heard of that.  there was this hurricane intake idea though ?

Seems basically same as what ive found,   you have to go real small on the runners to get any significant low end benefit.  Will start to loose top end before see any real change down low.  (tvis again)
some people swear by small intake runner,  but its usually on a crappy setup that has reversion issues.  basically adding more pressure on the intake side to combat the exhaust flowing back.    but not the way to fix it.
going too big is a thing. but worse going too small

This my 20v junk.  400k on half tank. but the tank some kinda upside down triangle. 2nd half does like 100k's ha. 

consistently does low 7L/100km.    windy country road driving, hills and shit.   with the od 8k nang here and there.   open road should be in the 6's easy.
stock ecu it was doing  9.8L/100km.  something was a bit screwed with it.   but using that much fuel  the link has paid for itself

so yeh not bad for something thats not really eco spec. although the panel work resembles a golf ball. 

40mm runner seems to choke out at 130kw.    have tired it on couple different setups.    throttles that size mounted  close to port and runner tapering bigger, probably good for a little more.

Maybe nz engine would actually benefit from opening the whole port up a little.  assuming they would be designed for high air speed at lower rpm to  get that economy

fuel filter.   fuel pump if its still the 30year old factory one, may save you a walk home one day.

toque curve just some math.  would look like this.   

not sure sorry,  they have basic vvt  on intake. which advances the cam 30deg when on.  usually switching back off between 6-7000rpm.

They make best power with 28-30 degrees ign timing up top.  haven't come across any weird spots where they need more advance.  pretty much  like the same ign curve as 16v head

Block itself has different sump bolt pattern to 16v, but just use 20v sump. external oil drain not drilled, but otherwise pretty much same.    pistons different, the valve cutouts will be in wrong place for 16v head. i dont know if will actually work, but would at lest be limited to little/factory cams.  rods same as late 4agze smallport. the 509gram ones.      so yeh swap pistons and same thing 

1 hour ago, cletus said:

Did you ever figure out how that ended up in it or why? 

I asked the previous owner, he knew nothing of it.  said it had been in the family most of its life and his old boy used to daily drive it.      So probably happened back in the 80's im guessing

@Dudley

Guess these limited edition chrome front diffs are worth a bit these days ?

With the intake and exhaust changes, my 20v junk seems to use less fuel.  so good excuse to do that exhaust.  

36 minutes ago, shrike said:

@Romansounds like you need to get another Prius engine from the wreckers and build the bottom end with beefier rods and some other go fast mods (cleaning up casting marks etc etc) just don't add any speed holes

Good point on the Nos dry shot, typically when I've seen/done Nos its always been when injectors are getting close to the limit on 4 cylinder turbo setups (2200cc injectors) in saying that these days dual injectors per cylinder is more common

I forget this is N/A sometimes, effectively you've gotten double the factory horsepower which in most cases would be a bar of boost to achieve (general rule of thumb obviously) 

Didn't realize the cost of it in NZ was that nuts, its about $14 per 500g here (but can get cheaper options if buying in bulk etc) though the states is like $3.5usd a lb or $1.70usd a lb if you buy 60Lb at a time

Though I guess if you work it out then at $14 a run its not that cheap as i'd expect you to use a lb per run and $140 per refill of a 10lb bottle isn't cheap

Keen to see the exhaust gains tbh

Id say what about pre intake C02 cooling but as your running ITB it wouldn't be that easy, dry ice on the intake manifold between runs? :p

Still got sound deadening?

pre cooling the intake doesn't do much at all.  especially in romans case,  since pretty much his whole intake is plastic. which will transfer very little heat.  The air going into intake different story

NOS goes against the whole NA  tuning thing imo.   may as well just jam a 150 shot on a stock echo   - maybe someone should do this

I dont recall those tyres dropping trap speed at low pressure.  well not significantly anyway.    10psi and 8k launch should get it moving.    need to run less in them than if it were a rwd

13.8 is pretty impressive,  but should go at least 13.6 i recon

  Further up the runner more cooling.   closer to valve will run nicer.    but  wont be much in it in your case.  I'd run the ones in the manifold. 

radiator size is plenty big for a na 4age

 The 3576  would be better option in the 35 frame.  

How much power are you realistically aiming for?

10 hours ago, Muncie said:

@kpr 

What's horrible superchargers or the L67? 

Any opinions on wastegates? Internal or external at what point should I be thinking of going external.

Both,  but mostly superchargers.  you get way more power boost for boost out of a turbo setup. 

depends on the turbo you use re gate type.  a lot of aftermarket stuff doesn't come with internal gate these days.   easier just to go external