Yowzer

100% wrong.I've read it here before too....... forum BS. Probably started and contiuned by some salesman of speakers to keep the sales going. The speakers should always be rated higher than the amp. Otherwise the voice coils burn up at party time when it gets left at full volume. BTW you don't measure speakers with an ohm meter because the 4, 2 or 8 ohm is impedence which varies with frequency. The resistance is always less than the impedence. Steve. You're an idiot.

The main destroyer of speakers is 'clipping' (when the amp can't supply enough power to complete the waveform, and ends up cutting the tops off), so it's actually better having an amp more powerful than the speakers. Also if ya have the crossovers set up right ya can generally pump more power into the speakers without a problem anyway. On an unrelated side note; I ran a 25W speaker on my 1000W RMS amp. It set on fire

An amp (that isn't complete dirt crap) will give better audio quality than running on the headunits internal amp. Especially at the lower frequencies. Yeap ya can run both front and rear off the single rca output, but you won't be able to adjust the balance between front and rear from the headunit. Not that thats a real problem as the amp has individual gain adjustments anyway.

I have heaps of spare cars. Road legal is a different story. I'll hopefully have something (avenger) wof'd by then though

I'v heard a story where some guys temporarily fixed their fuel tank with some chewing gum after a rock punctured it. Could always try that with a cardboard plate ductaped over top.

My rangi accelerator cable mount (made from an old boot lid) ECU So yeah, had an oil problem, the pump was leaking but that is now fixed. Car is complete. I epoxied the thermostat housing back together so it's all good as.

My leaking oil pump begs to differ. Bearings are fine. Issue solved The oil feed pipe was leaking straight back into the sump. Didn't actually need to swap the pump, but figured that I might as well anyway since I was already there. Cheers guys!

Didn't this motor have fine oil pressure untill you changed the oil and filter? Off comes the filter first (or perhaps I am missing something) I had also changed the pump. Oil and filter are the same as what was already in the engine. No idea what size the factory filter is. Just got the same that was already on it. I changed it to a spare ryco one I had lying around with the same results. It is still pumping the oil, it's just not pumping it as well as it should be. I have now modified the 5m pump to fit so will stick that back in if I can get the sump off.

Gonna take it off right now. Just made a new pump out of the 4m and 5m one I had lying around. The 4m pickup wouldnt fit on the 5m pump due to the longer pump shaft, but the 4m shaft fit in the 5m pump housing. THe 5m pump gears are a good 1/3rd bigger than the 4m ones, so it probably has a bit more oil flow to it. This pump should be fucking sweet if the current one's the problem. I didn't take photos

Never blew a head gasket. The head cracked due to the water galleries being blocked up and causing it to overheat. Not sure on how you could blame the oil pressure problem on me considering I've had the car running for a grand total of 2 days, 1 of which only drove to exhaust shop and back.

10-5 brought his gauge over, and it is reading a definite zilch. Off comes the sump.

Gauge has the wrong thread so did not fit, but a spare sender I stuck on gives the same results... Just when I thought everything was sorted

Last one was also a repco one. Ended up with a screwdriver in it Will try it though.

I think it wants 10-40 but I went with 20-50. Has a repco jobbie filter. Maybe I'll chuck some flush through it and another new filter and see what happens. I don't know how the old owner treated the engine but it ran mint up till today. Seems a bit odd that it was fine yesterday (although that could just mean the oil was only a bit higher than the pressure sender... )

Yeah its new filter and fresh oil.

Yep will do once it cools down a bit and hopefully stops raining. No oil leaks that I know of and is still full

Yeah did think that. Somewhere about the 200k mark. Thicker oil maybe? Not that keen on a cheap fix though / engine overhaul in a can

So I was goin for a drive today, and the oil light started coming on at low rpm. This is kinda strange as it was completely fine yesterday. The engine is a 5mge with a 4m oil pressure sender, pickup and sump. Oil is brand new 20W50. As I said, it was mint yesterday and not so mint today. Not keen on running a bearing just after I get the car going again.. Throw me some ideas on what could be causing this. The pickup didn't look like it was worn out or anything Cheers

Has anyone got a spare thermostat housing for a 5mge? I will pay good money / beer for one. Need it asap

Have a gas mig, but it ain't working as good as it should. Regulator seems to be rooted. S'pose a mig set up for gasless is better than a gas mig with no gas. I'll see if I can get anything good from it, if not I'll PM ya. I only need it for a 5cm blat, if that.

Yeah I've been constantly rechecking all the electrics and fuel system, making sure everything is secure and not in the way of something that could potentially destroy it. Not keen on a high pressure fuel leak in my boot.. I did invest in a fire extinguisher just in case though.

It's so close to completed I can smell it! The fuel system is done, the tank is back in, headlights are on, the last of the electrics are sorted and the car is 99.6% complete. Unfortunally, the last 0.4 % consists of a cracked thermostat housing and a cable mount. Oh well, there's still tomorrow. Still a few bits of trim / bumper that needs attaching too. Cheap surge tank. Yep, it's screwed to wood. Lushtastic MDF. There it is, all piped up and ready to go. Just need fuel. I decided to upgrade the lights as well, so got some Narva high/low beam semi sealed jobbies. 100W of light up in yo grill!! Still need to upgrade the wiring for the lights though, as the factory shit was never designed for that wattage. And the shitty tstat house. It took me ages to figure out why the fucker was leaking. Coulda had the car fired up tonight otherwise. (Except it still had no fuel) Tomorrow is the day. Hope Repco has a housing in stock, and I need to find someone with a welder that I can borrow for 5 seconds to weld up my cable mount. Then I can go for an exhaustless blat!

Shroud DOES affect it. Use a shroud! It forces the air through the exchanger. If possible block other free/empty space on the sides etc. as well. It won't adversely affect your open road driving, at least not to a point of concern. If you were really worried about drag co-efficient you'd not have started with a Lancer. Ha yeah thats what I was going for. What I meant is it doesn't affect open road driving. Didn't realize you quoted me before I edited it

Shroud shouldn't affect it negatively as cars tend to have them stock anyway. It should improve the cooling a bit while stationary as the fan will draw the air over the whole radiator. Is your fan electric or belt? Generally the belt fans are better as they are a lot beefier and can push more air.

I vote sidevalve. Not everythings about power for dollar.