Yowzer

Might as well post an update, considering I've actually done something Heres the photos of what the previously mentioned cocknugget did to my doors. *waiting forever for the bloody photos to upload because I don't have a program to resize them anymore..* In the mean time heres some stormtroopers riding hoverdogs.

Keen as. Might 3-wags it down.

Famous last words right there

I think you need a mig welder and an angle grinder.

Keen for meat at gardens again. That top carpark is lush.

Wow, nice job man! That's coming along real mint! Fully inspiring me to actually do something on my own car, instead of just looking at it

Ah ok, it's an avenger grill so prob way too big.

Cheers boe! If it ain't too much hassle that'll be fucking mint! Ya wouldn't wanna grab a grill while your up there either? I'll have to shout ya both some beers sometime

It's not that they can't handle the power, it's that they can't handle a dc voltage. Plug an old speaker straight up to a 12V battery and see how long it lasts. Now picture how long it lasts at 30V. Dude your missing steves point. Its not the dc power at all although placing a dc voltage over an inductor will cause the current to rise to a very large value this is not whats happening with clipping. Think of a clipped basic sinusoidal wave form (it has 'flat' tops) it has more area under it than a smaller maximum unclipped waveform. Therefore the amplifier is putting out more power which can damage the speakers Should move it phill Nah I know that boe, but I'm saying that even if a speaker can normally handle the power, clipping can still damage it. Ya could have a speaker that can happily take 200W all day long, but if the amp is clipping out at 150W while trying to reproduce a 200W output it can still stuff up the voice coils. Mate of mine killed a sub that way. Rated at 700W/1500 max but the amp could only put out half that. Him being a tool cranked the gain up too far and burned out the vc. I was running the same sub at 1000rms (2 ohms) and it was mint

So how did you set up the gain so you know that it's not distorting? Genuine question, I'm sure others would also like to know. Steve Ears.

Allrighty... Summarize time. You said your speakers were 85W and 70W rms? You will definitely benefit from an amp as head units only put out 50W max. An amp will usually allow for better quality as well, plus the advantage of cranking some lower frequencies. Aim for an amp around the 80W-100W rms mark. Some amps have the high voltage input where you can connect them directly to the headunit speaker output, others do not so you could use the things that 84_S12 was talking about. You can also run 2 RCA splitters to run them directly from the pre outs, however you will not be able to adjust the front-rear balance from the head unit. Not that that's really a big deal as ya can set it on the amp anyway. I know I've just repeated alot that others have said, but there it is, all summarized into one answer.

It's not that they can't handle the power, it's that they can't handle a dc voltage. Plug an old speaker straight up to a 12V battery and see how long it lasts. Now picture how long it lasts at 30V. It will, in most cases, be the installers fault as a correctly set up gain, input voltage and crossover will prevent the problem. But wtf is the point in running a 100W speaker on a 50W amp? Wasted potential right there. The damage occurs when carnies try to get 100W from their 50W amp by cranking the gain to beyond what the amp can provide. Yeh, right..... tui ad. Steve Ouch, Yowzer, I think you just got burned Shit yeah, I guess I just fluked a $8k+ install On a side note, we are actually a mile off topic here. BRB while I read the original question...

Keen as if cash allows

Make sure your amps are well under rated for your speakers Haha yeah, wouldn't wanna be operating them efficiently or anything aye! Sheepers boe, what ya want for it?

List of things to do, in no particular order. [*:20lgpb93]half done - Quieten down the exhaust [*:20lgpb93]Wheel alignment [*:20lgpb93]Install power steering box [*:20lgpb93]Improve front carpet. [*:20lgpb93]Reupholster the rear seats [*:20lgpb93]Panel work on all the minor dents / scrapes / rust patches [*:20lgpb93]Replace missing side trim [*:20lgpb93]Improve fuel system installation [*:20lgpb93]Improve audio installation [*:20lgpb93]Buff out all the scratches on the bootlid [*:20lgpb93]Install a 4 speed transmission [*:20lgpb93]Dynamat the interior [*:20lgpb93]Respray [*:20lgpb93]Replace shitty bushers with something better [*:20lgpb93]Repair/replace/relocate battery mount [*:20lgpb93]Make radiator shroud [*:20lgpb93]Done - Repair dodgy battery earth terminal [*:20lgpb93]Done - Install relay for highbeams (Installed HID High/lows) [*:20lgpb93]Done - Repair/replace buggered fender mirror [*:20lgpb93]Improve security on engine wiring [*:20lgpb93]Upgrade central locking [*:20lgpb93]Install alarm Hmm.. gonna be busy over winter. Better get another car running in the meantime.

Hey Steve, when was the last time you ever posted anything actually helpful in a tech thread? Almost every one of your posts is shooting down other peoples ideas or suggestions, and making out that you are some fucking super guru of absolutely everything despite never contributing anything remotely useful, or even on topic for that matter. Running a speaker over its power rating heats the coil up nowhere near as much as putting a constant DC voltage into it, which is exactly what clipping is. Running a higher rated speaker on a lower rated amp means the amp cannot supply enough power to take full advantage of the speakers potenntial, so ya turn the volume up and woops, DC volts into the coil. Bang. Chuck a higher rated amp on and ya can run the speaker happily at full potential with no worry about clipping destroying it. Also, if you're such an idiot that you're gonna run a speaker way over it's capacity, then you deserve to destroy it. No idea how you could stand listening to it though as if the speaker is running over its physical power capacity it will be maxing out the cone throw and distorting like a motherfucker. Especially if you're not running any sort of crossover. I know this shit inside and out. A home amp system works a bit different from a car system. The input signal on a home amp is constant, and the output volume is controlled on the amp itself. On a car, the volume is controlled from the headunit so the input signal is variable. When the volume is turned up too high / gain set incorrectly the amp tries to recreate the waveform yet doesn't have enough output power to complete it, hence the clipping.

100% wrong.I've read it here before too....... forum BS. Probably started and contiuned by some salesman of speakers to keep the sales going. The speakers should always be rated higher than the amp. Otherwise the voice coils burn up at party time when it gets left at full volume. BTW you don't measure speakers with an ohm meter because the 4, 2 or 8 ohm is impedence which varies with frequency. The resistance is always less than the impedence. Steve. You're an idiot.

The main destroyer of speakers is 'clipping' (when the amp can't supply enough power to complete the waveform, and ends up cutting the tops off), so it's actually better having an amp more powerful than the speakers. Also if ya have the crossovers set up right ya can generally pump more power into the speakers without a problem anyway. On an unrelated side note; I ran a 25W speaker on my 1000W RMS amp. It set on fire

An amp (that isn't complete dirt crap) will give better audio quality than running on the headunits internal amp. Especially at the lower frequencies. Yeap ya can run both front and rear off the single rca output, but you won't be able to adjust the balance between front and rear from the headunit. Not that thats a real problem as the amp has individual gain adjustments anyway.

I have heaps of spare cars. Road legal is a different story. I'll hopefully have something (avenger) wof'd by then though

I'v heard a story where some guys temporarily fixed their fuel tank with some chewing gum after a rock punctured it. Could always try that with a cardboard plate ductaped over top.

My rangi accelerator cable mount (made from an old boot lid) ECU So yeah, had an oil problem, the pump was leaking but that is now fixed. Car is complete. I epoxied the thermostat housing back together so it's all good as.

My leaking oil pump begs to differ. Bearings are fine. Issue solved The oil feed pipe was leaking straight back into the sump. Didn't actually need to swap the pump, but figured that I might as well anyway since I was already there. Cheers guys!

Didn't this motor have fine oil pressure untill you changed the oil and filter? Off comes the filter first (or perhaps I am missing something) I had also changed the pump. Oil and filter are the same as what was already in the engine. No idea what size the factory filter is. Just got the same that was already on it. I changed it to a spare ryco one I had lying around with the same results. It is still pumping the oil, it's just not pumping it as well as it should be. I have now modified the 5m pump to fit so will stick that back in if I can get the sump off.