Roman

You can get 12v vac pumps for brake boosters for pretty cheap. Like 100 bucks or something. I could use one of the injector holes or just drill a hole in my manifold though I guess

I've got a carbon nylon manifold and set of trumpets here that @NicT printed a while back for beams motor. Really nice surface finish, I love the texture and feel of it. Yeah I really should just bite the bullet and set it up some time. I'll look into getting one of those drying boxes. There's a bit of variation of quality of the brands of nylon filaments though, and it can make printing anywhere from pleasant to awful. I remember Nic gave me part of a roll to test to see if I could get it to work, one that had 20% carbon in it. But yeah it was gross. I also remember him saying that the Esun filament has styrene in it (which makes it stink / cancer awfulness like ABS) It probably pays to just go straight to getting $$ass reamed$$ and buying some of the mark forge filament.

Yeah you're right it's the correct material for it. I've just been trying to resist ever using it because of the admin work of printing it (needing to prebake it, then keep it dry while you're printing) Even while you are printing a part, completely dried out nylon can absorb enough moisture from the air to make the end of your print a mess. So you really need one of those dehumidifier boxes to keep the spool in while you print.

Alright so I got this all together and have chucked together a preliminary tune (just fixing fuel table) The shorter runners have given some wins and losses, but the wins are where I would like wins to be ie high rpm I will redo the variable valve timing and then see where we are at! It drives absolutely wonderfully and it makes an absolute racket. Super fizz mode for drags now.

3/4 race cam 48mm dellortos 13" wheels steel bumpers (under the plastic) equivilent of a 5k and T50 swap Can confirm this car is oldschool as fuck

Yeah I hear you. I had money set aside this month for exhaust bits, but then it was taken up by some other dumb stuff that wasnt car related. Maybe I can sell some more carina parts... Also I've only got until Mid May for attending any events in this that require WOF/REG. As it's unlikely I'll get another one without a cert. Will probably go down that path because this car's proven to be heaps of fun. And yeah anywhere that's covered by carbon or epoxy is fine, it's just if the plastic is exposed directly. So worst case scenario I'll just doubly make sure this one's entirely coated. This petrol also ate through the enamel paint on my engine cover. So it probably is D-Limonene as they use it as a paint stripper as well.

New colour scheme. Pretty sweet I reckon, an improvement at least. I've discovered something interesting / annoying. A while back, my existing 4AGE ITB manifold which I've run for months and months and months without issues. Randomly started to foam up inside and melted. I figured this was from a time when the engine overheated. However on my new manifold, yesterday I had some fuel spill on it when I was taking the rail off. When I removed it from the head, it was slightly sludgy on the flange side where the plastic is exposed. So the fuel is melting it! So I figure this must be from something that's currently in the Gull fuel and not the others. So I completely drained the tank, and also went to get a sample from Mobil to test. I left a line of HIPS filament sitting in both fuel samples, and almost instantly you could see the filament starting to fizz up. After about 3 hours they were both just a pile of goo. Which is interesting because I've done this test previously, and the filament has just stayed 100% impervious when sitting in petrol for months on end. So the fuel suppliers must have changed the recipe. Either they have included D-Limonene, or something chemically similar. So that's a ball buster. My days of shitty/cheap printed HIPS manifolds are over! I recently bought a roll of ASA, which is like a modern replacement for ABS so I'll try again with this. It's slightly more expensive but nothing in comparison to the cost of the carbon nylon filaments. (Which is probably the correct material for this application) Hopefully by the end of tomorrow I'll be able to start the motor up again. Also I've just realized that an easy way to hold the trumpets in place will be something as simple as a cable tie around the bridge in between the pairs, then use the bolt up in the corner. Sorted. I'm running perilously low on time to get everything finished and tested though.

Longer term I'll probably have some sort of airbox or backing plate on there. Since these throttles are a bit shorter than the 4AGE stuff, I've got heaps more room for an airbox and trumpets which is nice. So to get to the same effective length I can potentially have less of a sharp bend in the runners.

I'm getting pretty close to being finished. For starters I'll try a completely straight trumpet setup, this does mean it'll be considerably shorter than before. Will be interesting to see how the powerband changes. Will try a few different lengths. It's a bit annoying how the trumpets mount, there's only two bolt holes to connect anything to, which are a the far ends in this pic. So I've printed the trumpets in pairs, with slightly undersized inside diameter. Then since this pic I've warmed them with a heat gun and pressed them on. They're on there pretty good. Hopefully not too good, as these arent the final versions yet haha. There's probably another day or two of mucking around until I can start the motor, but it's coming along.

Bore size at the head is a 45x53mm slightly oval shape. Yeah there are zillions of options, these ones which suit a 1500 motor are from a 1000cc bike motor (as generally bore is wider and stroke shorter on a sports bike) So you'll probably want to find something with about 600cc engine size. There's a list of some here: https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6602 There's a list here, but best is to just hop on ebay and have a look. It's just dificult to find the right category to search, because bike people seem to call ITB manifolds all sorts of different things! But once you get onto the right category it usually shows up similar from other bikes. I wonder if these would be alright @yoeddynz https://www.ebay.com/itm/283051120678?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210609144404%26meid%3D5f09052c980c409883c1d8e5739930f8%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D383944603492%26itm%3D283051120678%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DItemStripV101HighAdFeeWithCompV3Ranker&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A2830511206785f09052c980c409883c1d8e5739930f8|enc%3AAQAGAAACABJgNKpRsHfoti1oFo0Xiv0OLQEsNaf2pDClQ5xGlr1ay%2BCDvigRn2sbqNrfb%2BcKjmASx6fZD38FBOOzwa5CvpeHprm766T3UC8l9g1st5YvGQvO94XVFc9pBzLTJ6ApeH1TLUBAnDPKnzUTb0h0rZvFXrtouruquDC8re21koSLny5m3XTId0gSth2m65Fi7p0pZJacNkGU925SX1ZfZGDq%2FiFR%2BPePzSoc%2BYsT35bMNmtf14HfoAqiRMyRRWfJKAxy5s%2FGrb1yXEakyZznZoeFi6B08iUEb83estr4lq4FPt%2Fx0XAVqFjEUuRcf2DFw%2BUr9beP%2FpoW4oLKKYwCkABGbZx%2F0A65E3ee%2Fa0mZC16gUP32%2BJAK2cnfoCzcPxUgSUGanRDjo9gzxvf%2FmA15DjsfuQqeTXL6WhznGBL2dQ4mpxddrwphQka99IXbNtEeIpmc6sZUByXzyHK0beYFZKcCw1ibTPDGdKYd22CjHob2lb7lqZPX72%2BLFa%2Frue7unSedLkPC%2B3nT5TNYae1myYfuY0Z%2ByxW64y%2BkGRE8SVrE%2F1prt8evSql8DmbwJ2DYDKf9Qk%2BYhpY81iPzaOhOIeUz7c8QfrIXJWEnLp5t78sNFQNls32n6%2BEj%2FgMuJokdz98%2FTfP039aWunjbP%2Fy62obAW87jeaOVcAakBB9f0Ue|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675

Yeah the factory setup has dual length intake runners in the airbox (top half of the runner lifts off) and then also two stages of injectors, the normal ones which you can see the holes for there, then a second set which is inside the airbox and sprays into the trumpets. However it's unlikely I'll be pulling enough rpm to see any tangible benefit from it, and from past experience it causes more problems than it's worth. Second injectors for a second fuel though like methanol. sure. haha

Okay so apart from the fact I drew the flange backwards so the two outer bolts wont go in. HOW GOOD IS THIS! It's amazing how well it all fits up. 1NZ port spacing is like 83.33mm x 3 These are approx 83-82-83 and looks way tidier. I also think I've got more room for trumpets compared to before, so I can have a bit of a gentler curve in them if needed. Gonna be awesome!

Hmmm nah I dont think I'll bother going that far. Literally just any tyre that has actual tread will be a vast improvement haha. I weighed the 13s for the rear and they were about 9.5kg each which is incredible For context my 14" wheels I took off were 15kg each. ROH and R888s were 17kg each so nearly double! I might put smaller brakes back on the front, and go get the other pair of these and run 13s full time. I drove it down to the dump in drag spec tyres, but with passenger seat still in and quarter tank of gas. Came in at 810kg which is awesome. So 790ish drag spec once passenger seat is out.

I went to pick a part takanini today, while I was up in Auckland for work. There was a fairly intact (auto) vitz RS there. Scabbed the RS type front bumper and grill, as these usually sell straight away or are already gone when the car comes in. Not 100% great condition but fixable. Will likely pass these on to a friend who's RS front is pretty beaten up. At least thats my justification for hoarding at the moment. While there, I thought I'd have a dig through the tyres and see if I could find anything with big chunky tread blocks for cheap autocross goodness. I didnt find anything good. However this got me sidetracked to go looking for any cars that had 13" alloys on them to find something to run on the back when at the drags. Surprisingly I actually found heaps! Every set I found, I tried one of them on the Vitz RS. But none of them would clear the brakes. So no chance of 13" all round, unless I go back to the smaller front brakes. But they'll all fit over the rear drums, so long as I never bother doing the rear disc conversion. There were a few different styles but I was stoked to find these, because they look a similarish style to the lensos I'll have on the front. Will look considerably less gumby than mismatched 14s on the back. Hopefully they're lighter than my other current rears as well. Happy with that. Also, BMW throttles turned up today. So I've measured them up, and the dimensions are looking really bloody good for a 1NZ. These are advertised as having 48mm throttle plates. Which is true but they are tapered housings from start to finish. So the exit is a 45mm wide by 43mm tall slightly oval shape. Then 53mm ID at the entrance. Modelling them up, it will work out awesome! This is a comparison of intake runner cross sectional area, for both sets of throttles. Will be interesting to see if the nicer taper gives any benefits. I'm out of filament at the moment but as soon as I've got some more, and got another small print job out of the way, I'll bang something out and see how it looks. exciting! #NoExhaustProgressYetAgain

Definitely not joining this group. Definitely not.

Nah was a zero admin day. Didnt even bring any tools. Doesnt meed 4wd, just needs tyres that have tread blocks.

After trying proper drag tyres at the drags, and semi slicks at the track. Its really cemented my opinion that the wrong car on the right tyres, is better than the right car on the wrong tyres. Today I attended a gravel autocross at Tect park which was absolutely incredibly awesome. However doing so on 1.5mm tread direzza star spec track oriented tyres was hilariously unsuitable. Average rpm was ~4000 and average throttle angle was 18%. Was just impossibile to get any power down. I was 10 sec slower than a near standard vitz rs, and about 5 sec slower than a four door K11. Ooohhh the shame of it all! Incredibly fun track layout though, with some decent speed not just pottering around cones at 30kph. A++ will attend again on suitable tyres

Oh my loooorrrdy! Engine actually back in! That's an epic milestone I am super stoked for you.

Yeah the way the cams work in the standard motor, it's more like a 750cc motor with an extra long stroke on the expansion side. I test drove an Aqua that my partner was considering getting, it's so absolutely hilariously different to this. This weekend on Sunday is an event at TECT park in Tauranga-ish area. This looks like heeeaapppsss of fun, its basically a super bumpy gravel track that's pretty wild But my car might be a bit low and come home sans bumpers. If I go to this, I'll keep the aqua manifold on as I've got more confidence in its dust filtration abilities. Alternatively if the red light situation changes, it might be Night Speed Drag Wars by this Friday. In which case the ITB stuff can go back on, no sign of the BMW bits yet. Otherwise I'm gonna hang these up on the wall until the other bits arrive. Pretty stoked with how this stuff turned out, and some of the milestones achieved with it. I've been trying to get a head start on the situation with throttle spacing on the BMW setup. I managed to find a scanned image of the engine's head gasket, then scale some measurements to try find bore spacing. Then I'm assuming the intake ports are central to the bores on each. 1NZ is 83mm bore spacing, and it looks like the S1000RR motor is going to be in the vicinity of 83-85mm centers based on scaling. So fingers crossed that this is the case, as it'll make it super easy to machine a manifold. Assuming an 85mm spacing it ends up like this, so slightly narrower would be just fine. Also if I end up CNC machining a manifold, I can keep the design a lot simpler because the material is so much stronger. I will probably add some degree of bridging between cylinders and add a few fillets once I know the tool sizes we'll have. But I can just focus on trying to make the whole thing machinable from one fixture position on the bed. (hopefully) Version 1.0 probably through to version 6.0 of this will likely be 3d printed anyway I guess. The tool path simulation stuff in Fusion 360 is pretty cool

Oh man I love KWS threads First post: "I bought this car for way cheaper than usual, and everything is fine!" Second post "Car problem diaries, chapter one" And I'm like

Speaking of such things, I've been getting pretty so-so economy on this tank of gas so far, and I just realize I've filled up on E10 from Gull. Ahh well, next tank back to 98 anyway

Just looking at local prices right now 91 octane $2.49 95 octane $2.73 98 octane $2.83 So for either of the options to be cost neutral against 91, you'd need to gain: 9.6% fuel efficiency for 95 octane 13.6% efficiency for 98 octane There's no way you'll get those numbers. Avoiding E10 is probably the best thing to do, because stoich of E10 is actually around 14.2 instead of 14.7. so if your oxygen sensor is trying to find stoich you're going to be using 3.5% more gas.

Hopefully here in a week or two, but not 100% sure these days! In the meantime I filled up a tank of 91 again, and then started on a more comprehensive economy tune. So this thing actually drives super nice at a 16.2:1 air fuel ratio under cruising conditions. then at full throttle I've leaned it out to around 13.4:1. Also set rev limiter to 7000rpm. On 91 at full throttle it was knocking quite bigly in some areas, mainly very low rpm very high load. So I pulled enough timing out to stop it from doing that, which was heaps - but then I've also adjusted e-throttle setttings so it cant get to that part of the map anyway. (Talking like, sub 2000rpm full throttle) So despite having spent the first portion of this tank of gas refining the entire map for the leaner conditions, which is obviously a fair bit of time at high throttle openings. I ended up with a near identical end result to my other tank. 729km from 36.99 litres. So again only just just just over 5L per 100km. So that bodes well for this following tank I think I could get close to 800 if I drive it nicely the entire time. By the time that's done, I think it'll be just about time to put some 98 octane back in and get these bmw throttles on there. Cant wait! EDIT: Also did some tests on same stretch of road to see which speed is most economical. Turns out that about 75kph is best economy with this gearbox, probably because at 100kph its doing over 3000rpm. Where as standard gearbox is like 2400 or something.

Sheepers is going to have steam coming out his ears like an M series head gasket when he reads this Also, what an absolute fucking trooper this has been! So good!

Based on comments, definitely more than one person was having a quick stroke looking at those pics