Roman

No idea, but I can do some back to back testing and find that out easy enough. Remember that most of the air comes from around the sides, not from straight ahead. Also the airspeed is (comparatively) incredibly low at the wide point of the bellmouth. Unrelated picture but you get the idea:

Version 2 underway. mounted 10mm lower and 5mm further into the runner. Then angling the injector about 5 degrees up I was curious how much the cross sectional area would be affected by having all this extra junk in the way. Taking a cut at what looks like the worst spot, and we've still got cross sectional area equivalent of a 74mm circle per runner. There's still way more bellmouth area than there was with the silvertop throttles.

Injectors turned up so I made some progress on modelling up something to hold the 2nd rail. I've printed one half, unfortunately though this shape wont work as doing a clearance check shows the end of the fork thingy touches the bonnet slightly. But this is why printing is great. Once I see an actual model I find it easier to think of how to revise it to make it better. But otherwise looking okayish I guess The injectors could probably go further in if need be. But I think I'll just angle the bracket downwards and revise it a little to have more top side clearance. Maybe bring the injectors a smidge further in at the same time. For interest's sake (I've only got 4 injector plugs connected currently) I got the motor running with just the outboard injectors working. It actually idles fairly okay! I have to turn off the wideband fuel correction though, because the response time of the fuel reaching the cylinder is quite delayed. But for a full blown race car it would probably work alright. Once I finished playing around with this, I took the car out for a drive with just 100% running on the inner set of injectors. These are quite a bit smaller than the 450ish CC 2ZZ injectors, so the motor was reaching 96% duty cycle by 8500rpm. So a bit too small to run just on those. But I've got enough injector to do some back to back testing between innners and outers, and blending between a bit. I get the feeling that the factory inners usually point at the factory BMW port a little better than these ones do, so it might actually make sense to keep the factory port injectors. If so, I might try out the factory Prius injectors, which have I think a 12 or 16 hole pintle for super fine atomization. But only quite a small CC rating as well. So this might give some good fuel economy etc while having the secondaries for the bigger fuel requirements. Oooorrrr I might just end up sticking with 2ZZ injectors. See how it goes!

This project is super cool! Love the parts bin aspect of it.

I've been running my EarthX battery in the Echo for quite a while now. Cranks over nice and fast, no issues.

If I was buying wheels right now, Id be getting some Advanti storm S1 / N719 Although not a big dick swinging brand they are incredibly incredibly light. The 15x8 are 4.9 kg each, they're strong and cheap. Otherwise yeah if you've got the money I'd go CE28. Buuuutttt if I was ever planning to try keep brake dust off white wheels, I'd go TE37 as the spokes are easier to clean

So I finally paid some money to get my exhaust done Bought a factory staged injection setup to suit my new throttles. I figure if a staged injection setup is going to achieve anything, surely it's an OEM one. It will be interesting to see if there are any tangible benefits at only 9k or under. Probably not, based on previous experience of myself and @kpr mucking around with injector position. It will be interesting to see if the injector spray pattern of the outboard injectors is anything interesting though. Hopefully the inboard injectors will be a high enough cc rating that the motor can run on just those, if needed. In order to do staged / have full control over all 8 injectors. I need to remedy the problem that one of my ECUs injector drivers stopped working. I'm not great with electronics, especially expensive ECU so I took it to Dads place so he could diagnose. Well, I managed to take the case off myself and spot the problem myself. Bravo to me! It seems one of these resistors is chooched, not hard to guess which one. The mosfet is fine, its just that this resistor blew so it went open circuit. So easy fix. Cool! Have ordered some replacements, will just take some careful soldering to fix it. If both sets of these fuel rails fit okay, then I wont need the factory 1NZ fuel rail and injectors right in the ports. So it might be worth doing a V2.0 head porting project where I can completely grind out the injector boss bumps from of the intake ports. That might be worth a smidge of power perhaps. Probably some worse cold start performance and some wall wetting grossness, from the first set of injectors being a bit further from the head. But will be easy to test before getting carried away. I also have a factory BMW airbox on the way. So this has an easy way to mount the outboard injectors, and also a cool dual length intake runner setup. When you apply 12v to a solenoid, it pushes a plunger down which lifts the upper portions of the intake runners up. Hopefully it fits, but I think it might be a bit big to fit in the available space. Fingers crossed.

Waterpump swapped back for one that dad fixed. But ive not addressed any root cause. I just now know how to fix it. Also, this made me smugface

Last night was heaps of fun but a bit slower than last time. Track was cold and slippery so 60fts werent great. Ran a string of 13.8s but no better than that. Also about a 20kph headwind so not sure if that makes much of a difference? But sounds like a good excuse so I'll roll with it. I realized it was probably a bit dumb lowering the car at the last minute, as it really needs another wheel alignment to fix the toe. It was pretty all over the show with bump steer on gear changes! My trap speeds were down a little bit as well, possibly due to some scrubbing from toe settings at the moment perhaps. I'll get some camber bolts dial the camber back out, and fix the toe settings before next time. Was fun learning how to do some 2nd gear skids though! Was real happy to get some runs in though, there werent many people so they let everyone keep going for more than 3 runs. I think I squeezed in about 10. Another A++ nightspeed event, was awesome.

Yeah I'm not so keen on dropping pipe at the manifold, especially since it's so short. As I'd need some epic heat shielding to stop a lot of important stuff from getting very hot. Only another week or two until I get exhaust done, then will go back to dyno and see what it does*. *all assuming I dont grenade something in the meantime

Yeah mine are M&H dot rated, they only have two squiggles on them for tread. Ultimately I think the car would be faster if I stuck with the hoosiers if I got them dialled in. Or some other equivilent wider tyre. But the narrow 13" setup suits the standard looking car a bit better I reckon, and still goes amazingly well. It looks like the weather will be clearing up! Rain is supposed to stop around 11am then just cloudy from then onwards. I'm not sure if a colder track might make a new PB unrealistic but will see how I get on. Fingers crossed.

Nah I hate DYO. Just try get the best time. Good point about the tyre slip vs clutch. I guess thats part of where the flexy sidewall helps a lot too, to spread out that initial shock load. But still needs to spin like you say. My 60ft time still isnt incredible though, and realistically its about the only place Ill see any gains. A guy in Aussie with a standard engine echo is doing 1/10th faster 60fts on the smaller clutch from the 1300 motor. Has done for many seasons. Although these tyres are awesome, I suspect theyre also well past their prime. I was surprised how easy it was to do a skid on them even at 7psi tyre pressure.

Yeah I guess it's just like a big see saw of weight over the front axle line. I've seen some NZ cars where they tip the motor more upright or more forward to put the weight over front of the axle.

Flat shifting is sorted, and I got my better shift light arrangement working again, after lots of head scratching. I've also been curious about what sort of suspension settings work well for a FWD drag car, generally speaking. It turns out that a lot of the top level cars have just got completely solid suspension, or close to it! Watching some youtube videos of launches in slow motion and it looks like they do get the intitial tyre bounce and then a fair bit of wheel spin off the line. However it also seems that since any weight transfer is not beneficial, the best thing is to just get the front and rear center of gravity as low as possible. I cant see how there's any anti dive / anti lift type stuff going on that's going to get worse by lowering it. More camber wont help, but it wont have increased by much. So will give it a go with lower heights. I wound all of the suspension right down to the limit of spring travel. Then had the guard to floor distance measured on all 4 corners on flat area in the shed. This obviously isnt as good as using corner scales, but still better than nothing. With the driver and engine both on the same side in a light car, results were uneven by quite a bit. The front right dipped 15mm, and rear right dipped 10mm lower than the other side. With some fiddling I managed to get the fronts both to the same measurement, and the rears 5mm difference. It will be interesting to see if there's any improvements in grip off the line this way. Fingers crossed that the weather gods are happy for drag racing to proceed tomorrow!

Altezza gearbox is super annoying for this sort of thing, Reverse is off to the left, and up. So sometimes you're in third trying to get down to 2nd, and you push it right across out of the gate and try shift down into nothing there. Bloody annoying!

I dont see how it's any more likely to happen than before though? I'm still using the clutch, just not letting off the gas. I dont think I've ever accidentally shifted into 1st going for 3rd. I think the absolutely chooched synchros wouldnt allow that anyway haha. Ahh well, good thing that motors are cheap

Yes correct, the trigger for downsift needs foot on brake and clutch at the same time. (And throttle less than 20%, but I'm imagining its hard to have 20% throttle with no foot on it) So yeah I got this all setup this morning for flat shift (havent configured the blip yet) So the clutch engagement point is at about 30% of travel (from the floor) But doing some testing I need the engagement point for the fuel/ignition cut to be more like 70% to stop the motor from either bogging or revving too soon. However its absolutely savage when it's setup right! Previously the 2nd>3rd shift was about 450ms to get back to full throttle from first lift. Now it's more like 210ms. With flat shift: 1st to 2nd takes around 310ms, 2nd to 3rd is around 210ms, 3rd to 4th is around 190ms All fairly consistently around those times. RIP shift forks hahaha.

Rear suspension. I removed the Ohlins rear shocks, which both seemed stuffed. So I thought I may as well pull one apart and see what's going on. I found that the spring steel shims on the pistons, which need to flex out of the way to let oil through to control rate of dampening. These were just snapped off. Hence not doing anything! Some of the seals were a bit so-so, but the broken shim stack was definitely the main issue. It's supposed to have a circular shim that covers that big oil port thing. So I've been doing some investigation and it looks like the seals and shims are all orderable, if I measure them up. However... A friend of mine (Thanks Adam!) bought a fairly modified Vitz RS for some gravel autocross stuff, and the low suspension it came with wasnt helpful. So I swapped him some factory suspension and the Vitz RS front bumper I previously hoarded, in exchange for the rear of the HKS setup. These have an adjustable platform and what looks like a stiffer spring. Total weight difference is about 1kg extra per side. Not too bad seeing how I can now set the rear height to suit better for drags (whatever that means for a FWD...) I gave it all a cleanup and made sure the threads were clear then fitted it all up. Looks a bit better with the rear lower now, and no rake. In other news, I figure it might be handy to setup flat shifting for the drags. In order to do this you need a clutch switch. This means I can have throttle blip on downshift with e-throttle as well. Cool! I had a clutch switch fitted to the endstop of the pedal in my Carina, but it was pretty useless. As you need to have the switch exactly on the clutch biting point, not the at end of travel which is where I had it mounted. Since it was fairly useless I never played around with the related features all that much. So this time around, different plan. I've got an accelerator pedal sensor from a 350Z. These have a little lever thing on them, so its fairly easy to retrofit to something else. It looks like the easiest spot to try fit it, will be pushing against the clutch fork rather than the pedal in the cabin. So this will obviously output a variable voltage based on clutch position, rather than being an on/off switch. This idea has some pros and cons compared to a simple switch. The main problem is that my ECU can recognize a clutch - only as a switch. So I need to get a bit creative to get it to turn it into an on/off signal. Basically I need to wire an ECU output directly to an ECU input which is a bit silly. So it's a bit of a bodge to work around an older ECU. Luckily I've got lots of IO to spare so it's not a problem. The main benefit of this setup is that I can adjust the switch point in software, rather than having to mechanically adjust the physical position of a switch. It also means that I can potentially set multiple conditions for turning the switch on or off. I can make it so a really light touch of the clutch will disengage cruise control, but then you need to reach the bite point for flat shifting or downshift throttle blip. It'll take a bit of experimenting to get it working right. But it should be fun. Throttle blip downshift will be pretty cool, and a bit of assistance for my absolutely flogged out synchros in this box haha. It looks like the weather might be a bit sketchy by this weekend, but if it's looking fine I'll head to Nightspeed again this coming Friday. Hopefully with flat shift working nicely by then, and see if having functional rear suspension helps the launches at all.

With a margin of error of +- 500 pages Speaking of barrying, The full results from nightspeed came out. So although I got eliminated in the first round by some poor tactical judgement (lining up against the fast wagon straight away) I was third fastest in class so that's cool. There were 163 cars in total, and my car is the median haha. There were 81 cars faster than mine, and 81 slower. Looking at Trap speeds vs quarter mile times and you can see what's needed to achieve a particular quarter mile time. My trap speed is very low for the time that I'm doing, compared to other cars doing the same time. Which suggests I'm getting off the line quite well and I'm likely pretty close to max potential. The only car faster than mine that did a sub 100mph Trap speed was an A45 AMG Mercedes, which ran a 12.927. Must have had an epic launch! Or maybe hit the brakes early. But no 60ft data included so not sure. However you can see that there are cars hovering just under/over the 100mph mark which are doing way slower quarter mile times. So they'd have heaps more potential with better suspension/tyres rather than more power. The slowest car with a 100+ mph trap speed was a Mirage that ran 103mph over the line, but ran a 15.3 Must have had a really horrible launch! It's got the trap speed to easily do a low 13 or a high 12 instead. EDIT: I just noticed the other sub 100mph dot. This is funny, you're not allowed to run quicker than 11.0 at Nightspeed without getting in trouble. This was a GTR skyline that ran a 10.961, with a trap speed of 97mph hahaha. So obviously absolutely hauling arse off the line, then probably hitting the picks half way down the track to avoid doing faster than an 11.

Awesome result! Well done.

Nah that's way too much effort. Like I could replace 200 bolts, or do one thing like remove the ABS pump for same amount of weight haha. Ultimately though I still want to go do some trackdays in this, and keep it road going. Not super specialize as a drag car. But there will probably be another 40 pages worth of barrying going on.

End of month. Exhaust. Gonna happen!

True, good point haha.

This has a 4kg flywheel so its not bad. Yeah at full rpm full steam, this shifts quite well, I think the rpm drops quite quick so the synchros dont get too much of a hard time. At low load/rpm driving though this gearbox is absolutely chooched haha. Will replace the synchros one day. Flat shift just helps minimize the variables involved in upshifting I guess. And yes, unfortunately I do need that last shift over the line.... Hmmm maybe I could have strung it out for another 100rpm or so though and held it in third though. Still getting used to that shift light setup, my LED bars stopped working for some reason and I couldnt find the spares. Having the LED bars that approach the center was incredible for getting shift times accurate. Much better than the light. So I'll set that back up.

Yeah if I add a clutch switch then i can setup flat shifting. So ignition cut and no foot off the gas either. just an ignition cut to kill torque momentarily. Some of the guys there were saying this is beneficial on an itb setup to keep the airspeed up by keeping throttles open. But is that actually a real thing, or do they just have a shitty tune at part throttle/transient? Surely airspeed resumes almost instantly when youre at high rpm.