Roman

I reckon avoid cutting the bonnet at any cost! Ruins part of the charm of a modern engine in an old car.

Oh hello

Cool project! Dont reccomend rose joints for the 4 link however. In order for the rear diff to move through its arc of travel, each arm needs to become slightly shorter or longer to allow it to raise/lower/tip, which is allowed for with rubber bushes. When you fit rose joints, each arm becomes an exact length instead. So other parts of your car (i.e. diff mounts) need to make up the difference. it also wears out rosejoints pretty quick. Probably especially bad on a triangulated 4 link.

Converted from cable to electric speedo, in order to get it to read more accurate. It's easier to adjust a digital signal, than make a gearbox for the speedo cable or whatever is required. Waiting on Jaycar to get the speedo adjustment kit in stock though... They had bloody well better hurry up! currently works great, but it's hilariously inaccurate (reads 180kph when doing 100) I also spent some time cleaning the garage floor...

+1 to the above, great to see it back out of the woodworks, and not owned by some douche. Look forward to seeing how it progresses.

Awesome thanks!

Exciting news, on the "Make my engine run less shit" front! It's been theorized for a while, that although not OBD2 compliant, these motors actually have an OBD compliant serial stream from the ECU. Which as it turns out, is the SIL pin. Some crazy russians have spent some time with a scope and figured out the baud rate, protocol, etc of the Japanese OBD data, which means.... With some wizard magic wiring into the Diagnostic port (Courtesy of my Dad) we have got an ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 reader connected to the ECU successfully. It needs some custom commands to make it work, so currently it only works with the app "Torque" for android devices. Well worth the $7 for this app! Awesome for troubleshooting. Can look at idle speed, TPS angle, coolant temperature, etc without having to look at the gauges. I've had some issues where the car runs a LOT better with the TPS disconnected. Turns out that as far as the ECU is concerned, when the throttle is fully shut it's at 27% throttle and when fully open, it's at 60% throttle.Which meant it had a fairly crappy 1400rpm idle running super rich. I unscrewed the tps from the housing which let it unwind a little further - now shows 9% throttle opening as far as the ECU is concerned, and drops to a stable 850rpm idle. Booya! This should hopefully help make the cold idle a bit nicer when the TPS is replaced with the proper one. So I need to find a 3 pin TPS from a gen 3 or 4 3SGE, does anyone have one kicking around? I also need a 3SGE knock sensor in working order... If anyone's got one, Love you long time!

I'd leave it on for sure. When you're at full throttle, there are more gases in the crank case than vaccum in the intake, so the gas blows out the non PCV pipe into your catch tank. When you're at idle, it sucks through the PCV line, and draws fresh air in through the other line from your catch tank. So the non PCV line works to do two jobs at once, flows both ways. I've got both lines hooked up to my intake, beams motor has a catch can built into the cam cover so I'm not convinced that excessive amounts of vapour etc makes it out anyway.

It's not too much of a drama about the PCV - because if you look at the size of the hole in the valve, it's effing tiny... And it's got a valve in there to stop it from sucking too much air through. It also makes your engine a bit healthier by sucking out the crappy fumes etc while you are idling. So it's not a bad thing, just cunty to try and fit in some how. You could probably get away with plumbing it into just one or two of your throttles perhaps. Easy way to get a rugged sounding idle hahaha. Unless of course he's also saying that you need the other crankcase vent line connected to the intake too, in which case... aaahhh... yeah. Dunno how that would work. It's pretty awesome how much you've managed to get done on this car in this time frame, A++ would read thread again.

Oh yeah, so just to get the picturelessness out of the way: Have made some progress, changed the steering arms back to the proper ones. As Clint suspected, (ARE YOU A WIZARD?!) the proper steering arms have a 'drop' to the tie rod end, where as the steering arms I had in it had everything more in a flat plane. Which is weird, as apparently they were from a Carina, and I dont see how you could *not* have bump steer, with a flat arm. I would be interested to see the suspension setup of the car they came from! It cant be an MZ10 or MA61 or GX71, as they have a larger ball joint on the LCA. It must be from some variant of either Carina/Celica/Corona with some wizard magic tie rods or something. Perhaps from a... power steering, steering box setup or something. Dunno! Big thanks to Ken/Kinloud for helping me out with some other steering arms though. I had my rediculously helpful Dad come around and wire up a check engine light, and he also made some spacers for the front suspension: As basically, the front spring rate was good, but it was preloading the bejeezus out of the springs to get it to the height it was at. As is often said, having an adjustable spring platform is more about accomodating different spring rates/lengths, rather than height adjustment. So my options were to fit longer shocks (Which then might not fit in the strut casing anymore, as the bottom part would be longer too?) or put spacers between the strut towers and top of the suspension. But yeah, it pays to think carefully before cutting down your shocks/struts! This raises the front by 10mm, meaning I can wind the springs back down a bit, for sake of mechanical sympathy/having more suspension droop. Although, the car currently gets down my driveway without scraping, and steers really nice, so... screw it! More interested in doing sweet jumps/gravel bashing/Takumi style gutter dives than having a low car. So might cert it at the current height, and hopefully spend summer cruising around in it without fear of destroying my sump and being stranded in... fuck knows where. Sooo I've just a wheel alignment to go, then pester Clint/Cletus into a recheck before my time runs out

^^There's a lot of benefit to advancing the cam (or not) based on load as well though, so you pretty much get a more miserable fuel bill disabling it too. (Assuming your ECU has a load vs rpm table for it I guess) there was a guy who built a turbo Altezza motor with Supra pistons - which have different shaped valve reliefs. Checked all of the clearances when buildint the motor and it was fine, but then started tuning and advanced the cams - crunch! woops

Performance chips... removing vvt... sigh. Inb4 Octane booster

My car's probably a little heavier than this, and I went 3.5kgmm in the back and it's perfect. That's coming from springs which were previously... way way too hard, way too hard, too hard, then 3.5kg. I'd rather see this thing raised a bit and doorting around some back roads than barely scraping along the highway without fear of killing yourself.

It's a bit of a fuck around, but if you measure heights, swap springs left to right and then measure again, you can narrow it down to either an issue with the springs or the rest of the suspension/car. then go from there.

Got a new one today for $45 so no dramas.

Soooo... Things have been a bit shit! I've been busy working to get everything crossed off the list, for cert recheck. I've only got a few things left to do - swap back to factory steering arms, wheel alignment, and check Engine light. Plenty of swearing was done while fitting driveshaft loops! Happy to have that finished though, I've been putting it off for years haha. I've got about 3 weeks left to complete it all, I was hoping to have it done already but then my daily driver decided to spring a water leak from 'the hose from hell'... A 90 degree rubber hose on the side of the engine block that the rest of the car is built around, basically. So I had a week with no daily driver while I was pulling it to bits trying to fix the leak... Then borrowed my old mans car to go get some parts to fix my daily, and crashed it on the motorway. Pretty much written off. I was super gutted about this, I've never had a crash before. Spent the whole Saturday of Labour weekend sitting on the side of the motorway waiting for a tow truck, talking to cops, or contemplating how shitty it is to crash a car. The cars in front of me had a nose to tail, and the brake lights never came on so I didnt expect the car in front to stop so suddenly. So that sucks! Supposed to be concentrating on this, now I've got these whole other set of problems to deal with. Bah. In more positive news however, I had some springs custom made by Snells, fitted them and they were too tall. Called them back up, and they were happy to modify them to be shorter for free. Good service! Fitted these springs back in, adjusted front suspension to some more sensible castor/camber, and took it for a run up the road. It's driving so much better than it ever has! Cant wait to get a proper alignment done, I'm sure it would work wonders. The softer rear springs are perfect, I had these made to 3.5kgmm. My front springs are probably a bit soft currently, so will try find out the rate and source some at maybe 10-20% stiffer. I was hoping to take it for an alignment tomorrow, however, the ONE damn thing that I'm using from the original car (T50 slave cylinder) dumped its guts tonight, thankfully just as I got to the top of my driveway. So I'll have to try source a replacement tomorrow, and fit it over the weekend. pooz. If you wish discuss any of my first world problems such as: -Lack of pictures in thread -Too many words in thread -Lack of cert -Lack of daily car -Lack of non smashed borrowed car -Lack of lack of ride height -Lack of skids -Lack of T50 slave cylinder (giz?) You may do so here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=21625#p614135

I went into a parts shop near Penrose, talking to a guy at the counter when I was going in to buy some parts and he asked what car it was for... He said "Oh, I tried to buy a wagon one of those a while ago. It was a white diesel one, with twin round lights" "Was the guys name Sam?" "Yep!" Didnt think there would be too many others around.

Price up all of the rest of the stuff you will need to put in any manualised *UZ engine, and buy all that stuff first. Because it's rediculous how much it all costs. Toyota tax on those bits is retarded, might make you think twice about either. If the idea of working with a 3UZ is buying it cheap, it's neither here nor there in total cost of project. And it's possible that off the shelf solutions which have been done a million times for 1UZs may not apply, so more expense. So it's not something I'd try to, to be honest. In other, possibly more helpful news, isnt the 3UZ iron block? Not really what you'd want. A VVTI 1UZ could be a better purchase, if wanting a fancy *UZ engine. A 1JZGTE is likely a cheaper/better option tbh

Lewl P.S. Nice work on the custom made C-walk... Oh, sorry I mean flare, but same thing.

Good to see yas briefly. I'll try be a bit more punctual next time and/or should turn up more often now that I live up the road. Heh. Enjoy some blurry pics, that red truck was super sweet

Once I ordered the manufacture of about 1200 welded struts, which turned up on site made out of solid steel rods instead of hollow pipe. Which the client promptly rejected as they were twice the weight they should have been. When my boss came over, I was all like, pokerface.jpg So who's the retard now! RHS / Rectangular Hollow Section

You having a laugh?

Looking good man, you and Vegie make me wish I had an S12!

You should spend some time tuning the VVTI - to give it a rowdy idle