Scrubb

whoops.. meant to say 20W50 I thought that too thats why I asked here.. I'll have to lookup what those numbers mean on the oil.. I just buy what I'm told lol And thanks for the ignition timing info, you helped me set it by myself and I also advanced it 2 degrees.. runs alot better than it did. Sorry if it seems like I ask for advice and then ignore it, I dont. I dont know crap about fixing cars so I'm trying to learn how things work and whats going on but usually I cant fix it myself so I like to find out as much info as I can.

I was running 15W40 Shell helix and it started running a bit low so just topped it up with some 10W40 or something my uncle had lol and I had no problems. I'm now using Castrol 20W40 and its noisier but I dont know if its only sometimes or if its stopped because I havent noticed it today.. will have to let ya know next time I start it up in the cold and then listen when its warmed up..

Just put some Castrol GTX 20W50 in my 4G32 after getting my valves adjusted. I was running Shell Helix 14W40 (but apparantly they didnt really need to be adjusted but were done anyway) and now they're alot noisier than before.. they go tap-tap-tap clickety clack and it dosnt seem to stop. Anyone else had these problems running this oil? caboonatlarge said his was noisy running this oil.. guess this is what he meant. Do ya think this would be an easy fix by just changing oil? And is it ok to drive like this because I'm probably gonna be doing alot of driving..

Just looked in manual, says 1.15 Litres SAE 90 in the rear axle, I'm assuming thats the diff? So now I just need to get my clutch done and I will replace gearbox oil and I'll replace engine oil after my valves are adjusted.. Hopefully my gearbox problems go away..

Bought some Castrol GTX 20W50 engine oil today.. seemed to be all I could find at Supercheap and Repco at the time so I'll see how that goes.. Also got some Valvoline SAE-90 for my Diff, does anyone know how much I need? I just bought 1 Litre

Alot of information! Always wondered about that stuff and what the numbers meant.. the W means winter I think someone on here said? Thanks!

Yea I think shell is what I was meaning to type.. I cant remember for sure though

Yup, I found 20W40/W50 was good. Using 15W40 atm and its been leaking slightly and Ive had to top it up a couple of times.. as soon as my valves are adjusted I'll change it again and get some of that Castrol 20W40 or the 20W50 most likely. Cant remember which one it was I saw for like $17 So you say 90W stuff or whatever works really well for diff? cuz I need to top that up too..

Sux! was planning on going to this and looking forward to it! But it looks like my great grandmother has her birthday 2nite and my friends birthday also tonight or tomorrow Sorry its not planning out like you hoped... Just too many things happening this time of year, Maybe re organise for in a couple of weeks?

I had a problem where the engine would turn over and everything was working properly but there was no spark The problem was one someone had jammed one of the wires from inside the distributer underneath the dirtributor cap and it exposed the wire and was grounding itself on the outside of the distributor. Maybe its worth checking wires inside the distributor?

Looked under car a few secs ago.. theres 2 pipes going into the fuel tank by the rear passanger wheel, both pretty much same size but the one on the passenger side is slightly bigger Hope that helps

I'm keen.. just gotta ask my bro if he wants to come.. havent got a yes or no yet lol

The left pipe goes into the side of the head at the back. The right hose goes down into a piece that has another pipe coming off it to the intake manifold and a Steel pipe going all the way around the back of the engine and into the water pump but I dont know which is in/out. Looked under car but I have no idea what I'm looking at for the fuel tank hoses.. Couldnt see anything but I didnt go right underneath car.

Should mention that pic is 1600 lol

looks like that left one goes on higher than the right and the right one goes on somewhere underneath? is it possible to find places where hoses are meant to be and hook them up? if not I can try and trace where they go and take more pics

Its this weekend? Damn I was gonna try and come.. got my 21st this weekend..

I am most likely completely wrong but could it be the automatic choke?

Been having a few problems with the timing on the car.. I set the timing a couple of weeks ago and found that it had been like 20 degrees the wrong way for months and months without realising (I just thought thats how the car was meant to run) Car was much better as I decribed on other thread here: http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewto ... ght=timing But the car has been bunnyhopping and jerking when I drive it and found that when I checked the timing it would be back at 0 degrees or something and not where it should be (5 BTDC) I've corrected the timing about 3 times in the last week and a bit but the car is driving NO WAY as good as it did when I did the timing the first time, its just like it was when it was completely out but a bit smoother and a bit more power but not as good as the first time. I disconnected the vacum hose from the distributor and blocked it off with timing light and increased the engine speed and the timing went from 5 to 0 and then jumped sharply up to 10 or 20 or so when I further increased engine speed. I also got my brother to suck on the vacuum hose and the timing also advanced about 5 degrees. This is all the info I know so far.. replacing belts and tensioners tomorrow hopefully if the belts and tensioners I got are the right ones. Does the timing advance sound like its working okay and does anyone have any ideas what could be causing it to still run like shit when I adjust timing when I havent changed anything since the first time? Any help or ideas will be appreciated.. I'm eager to learn this stuff..

Cool, thanks, Hopefully I'm getting some help tomorrow to replace it (fingers crossed)

Just read a guide on how to replace timing belt cuz I'm having problems with it not keeping timing so I'm replacing the timing/balance shaft belt and tensioners and the guide says I need to tension the belt according to the specs... Does anyone know what the belt tension specs are for a 4G32? I need both timing belt and balance shaft belt. Thanks

I got Castrol VMX which is "SAE 80W and exceeds API GL3 and GL4 performance requirements." This will be alright? Let you know how it goes.

Does anyone have an idea of what prive I'm looking at for a new belt and tensioner for my 4G32 engine? It keeps losing its timing and someone told me could be the belt and/or tensioner..

Yeah, that sounds about what I will probably be most likely to afford, cheap but definitly not the cheapest! I used that 20W40 stuff from warehouse or repco cant remember.. but now I'm using that Shell Helix 15W40 and seems to be okay.. dont know if its a little noisier because tapperts still havent been adjusted properly. I'm gonna be changing the engine oil again very soon so should I get the 15W40 again or the 20W40?

$75 though just for the gearbox! jesus... Way out of my budget till I get a job..

Yea Repco's expensive prices but at least its just a 5 min walk down the road lol Cool, will try the red Shell stuff when I get some moneys and see whats up