~Slideways~

Ah so that's quite a large one! I was looking at the Ender 3 Pro which says it can do Carbon Fibre (not sure if that's the right thing). But the build size is much smaller at 220x220x250. From what I can find the nozzle can do 240degC and the base 110degC so maybe just shy of what is needed. I suppose a manifold could be designed in pieces that slot together?

Yep was meaning the manifold itself, it really interests me since I've been looking into ITB's for my MX5 on and off for a while now. Options are either high end expensive CNC stuff or DIY to keep it affordable. The DIY path has a few options like 20v ITB's with a tig welded flange onto the stock cut down intake manifold. But its a compromise due to port/runner shapes and spacing. The other is using motorbike ITB's with silicon joiners to the cut down manifold but again it's a compromise with either running out of room or having bad flow etc. Doing something like you've done makes more sense to me, as long as it lasts a decent amount of time. Plus the option of printing different trumpets etc is pretty cool. What kind of 3d printer do you have? Do you recommend it?

I'm not sure if this has come up but what kind of 3d printer do you need to do this sort of thing? How is durability now?

I bought a cabinet a little while ago from Machinery Warehouse. Slightly different design but probably made in the same place: I found that the pick up tube is terrible, its just useless. Any pressure from 50psi to 120psi and a big air tank, it just barely works. I tried all sorts but it just wasn't very good at picking up the media. So I modified it like this so the sand pick up is from the bottom trap door, using 40mm steam pipe and some 19mm heater hose back to the gun through a hole drilled in the side of the cabinet. Got the idea from these 'metering valve' kits people sell to do exactly this: It was made from what ever I had available to test the idea, that nut welded on the top had a ball valve tap on it but it was too small to let enough air in. Works great without the valve. Now it works awesome, constant flow of garnet. Now its actually fun to use and not constant frustration. I do still occasionally have the gun getting clogged so just cover the outlet and let the air bast backwards through the feed tube and then its good again. I'm currently fixing up a ST202 Celica, some parts could fit in the cabinet:

Done

That starlet is pretty cool, would make an awesome daily... I currently have 10 fckn cars but what's it worth?

Don't mind 4 door too much but yeah, $4500 seems a bit much. There is another locally but its a 1999 for $4k, would really want a 2000+ for 12 month warrants. I wonder what the solid axle is? s-series? t-series? Do they even still make them?

God dammit, now I want one.

Did almost 20,000km in this in the year I've had it, so much fun to drive and change gear more than is necessary. Currently driving a very boring 2000 Ford Laser hatch (Mazda BJ chassis) with the 1.6 ZM-de, which is the same engine family as the mx5 b6ze from what I understand. Apparently the head will fit onto the B6 block with the only difference being 2 extra oil drains on the later engine. But the port design is different etc, no fancy VVt or anything. But the 1.5 zl-ve does have vvt, so its an interesting concept to maybe fit the 1.5 vvt head to a B6ze? While it is rated to a similar power it feels very lethargic compared to the Mx5, it's probably mostly gearing but maybe the later head's port angles are more economy designed like FE Toyota heads? Current plan is to use the Laser for daily duties and then install the Speeduino in the mx5 so I don't have to rely on it for commuting. So basically a daily for my daily. I swapped on some R888's and later 15's mx5 wheels (enkei's and really light) and drove it rain or shine for a few months. Can seriously throw it around with those on it. Had the roof down on single digit morning, good way to wake up for work. Hard top back on now with all the rain. Took it for a hoon out to the coast for lunch a while ago, was a super clear day too:

More please.

Sadly E85 isn't really an option in NZ anymore.

haha yeah maybe not 80kg's. But at least some of the lightness will be in the plastic intake etc, probably only talking a few extra kg's if you make a simple aluminium one though. I wonder how strong the engine is? I know Mighty Car Mods's's Yaris didn't last long, who knows what condition that was in beforehand though.

Does the weight difference still add up when you've added all of the extra turbo stuff? Really interesting idea though...

Ah, thats annoying. Cheers

Should be good now, was working with Google photos at first then it stopped. Not sure why so uploaded instead.

Weird, they were working at first but not anymore. Have uploaded to OS now.

Took this off the road to deal with the rust on drivers side of the roof, it was worse than I thought under the bog job that the previous owner had paid a lot of money for.... that was probably 7-8 years ago now so I guess it lasted a while. I decided to go all out and cut any trace of rust out of the roof then paint the whole thing. Condensation is what gets to the roof skins on these so I sprayed lots of wax anti rust stuff in everywhere. Decided to do something a bit different and paint the roof with 2 pack textured stuff, like Raptor liner but I used Novol Cobra stuff. In theory it'll hold up to scratching branches etc, some sound deadening and I don't know...it looks cool? Also stripped the front bumper back to bare steel and coated that too. This is just after spraying it so its a bit less glossy once dried, in person it turned out pretty cool: Also made up some brackets to fit the passenger WRX seat, Murphy's Law meant the last bloody bolt was pre-stripped, it'll have been like that the whole time I've owned it, no way of getting it out so ended up having to cut it open to get to the stripped nut inside and weld it back up.

Can't remember the sequence of things that happened but in a nut shell, multiple dyno visits and some teething issues: - Had boost control issues due to heat melting a vacuum hose, tried extending the fitting by getting it braised but wasn't enough, then found that Turbosmart now provide fittings in their annoying thread and size that no one else uses or stocks. Used some of those to get it away from the heat. Added a bunch of heat shielding and some of that gold tape stuff. - Over fueling in higher revs, theory was that the Xspurt 1000cc's have a single narrow spray pattern and the 1jz vvti has quite a wide casting/wall in the centre of the intake port. So the fuel must have been hitting that and just flooding the walls with little atomization. So I went back to 540cc Toyota injectors, from an ST215 with plug adapters to test the theory as these have the exact same 4 hole pintle cap jobby as the original 1jz vvti injectors. Should be enough for 300kw atw on 98, I originally went with aftermarket Xspurt 1000's in order to be able to run ethanol later. But that's much harder now that e85 is gone. - The night before dyno booking the cam cover gaskets decided to leak like a sieve when I went to fill up on 98. Ordered Toyota genuine and did that. Back on the dyno just before xmas and the injectors appear to have helped because now as soon as you give it any more than 10psi the clutch lets go. Looks to be limited to 450Nm, previously it didn't slip at more than 14psi, now it can barely handle 10psi. On the other hand it was probably also getting hotter than before. Drove home perfectly fine but made a plan to upgrade the clutch, which I had not been looking forward to doing. Wasn't looking forward to taking the box out, because its in a chassis it was never meant to be so was expecting it to be a right bastard of a job. Google tells me the R154 is 110kg?! I've done many myself but all probably half the weight. So I bought a transmission jack, even my wife said I should after I said how heavy it was. Turns out it wasn't too bad of a job to get out. Managed to get the driveshaft out through the two driveshaft loops without removing them and the only thing getting in the way of pulling the gearbox all the way back and off was the starter motor bulge hitting the tunnel. Next time I'll unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel to give a bit more room. Left it on because I wanted to see if it was possible for when it goes back in. The piece of wood is tilting the engine back a bit with the jack. I've now massaged the tunnel a bit with a hammer to help. Managed to get the flywheel machined even though everyone is closed. Drews Automotive is closed but the guys a bloody legend, was not working and was going away the next day but still got it machined and tested the old pressure plate and the new upgraded one to compare. Old PP was 1800lbs New one is 2600lbs Clutch plate is a 6 puck sprung centre jobby. Old clutch plate had plenty of life left in it, just not enough Fitted Toyota Genuine rear main seal and spigot bearing. Totally forgot I need to replace the flywheel bolts since they are meant to be torque to yield. Have ordered some ARP ones now. I'm sure I've reused flywheel bolts before but for the little bit extra I thought I'd better change them since I don't know their history. Aim now is to go for 300kw atw, should be able to get there hopefully, intheory the only thing holding it back was the clutch, which had previously held 260kw atw (for one run on the stock Toyota ecu). Bloody scope creep, this was meant to be running the stock 1jz engine/ecu/turbo....

Have been driving this everywhere, bit of a tidy up and a new wof. Took the Semi's off and put the super cats back on, man what a difference the tyre walls make it feel like the tyres are flat. Still fun but easy to out drive the grip now. Shame the semi's are so fckn loud, louder than the worst mud terrains I've had! Haven't had a chance to do anything else on the Speeduino yet, needed it as the daily while working on other cars. Out of interest I unbolted a spare 1.6 exhaust manifold to see how bad the collector was to see if they were as bad as Roman's ones. Yes they are. Welded on the inside with a thick bead which is choking it down from the head port size: Look at how much the tube is crushed to fit into the collector! From the inside it doesn't look so bad because you can't see the crushed bit, but based on the outside, they must be bottled necked heaps here? Why didn't they just make the cone bit a little bigger to avoid crushing down all four tubes? Bet if I made a better manifold it'd make at least 2hp across the board.

Watching with interest, I remember my old '83 ae86 was stock standard when I got it, even had the intake crossover pipe over the radiator, that thing had so little torque that even gravel roads would require higher revs to break traction. I remember it was a thing to remove the TVIS butterflies for "more top end", I never did that but I imagine it would make the bottom end torque become a black hole of nothingness.

I had a stripped out ae92 Trueno, no sound deadening, no carpet, no stereo, motorbike AGM battery, seats removed, racetech drivers seat, removed sunroof with alloy panel, plus extra weight of turbo stuff. Metal Recycler weighed at 920kg. I know you meant AE70/85/86 chassis, but you said AE's so there you go. Don't be a racist.

Have you watched this guys stuff? Pretty cool. https://c90adventures.co.uk/

Still chasing this misfire, currently have injectors out, which were new xSpurt 1000cc's when put in some time over a year ago. They were tested and it sounds like one was a little iffy on a low pulse, but was then fine which is frustrating. But it does actually match the intermittentness of the misfire. I'm not sure its enough to explain the behavior I'm seeing, but maybe since it only happens at idle/low throttle cruise which would be a pretty low duty cycle on big injectors, it could fit. Getting them ultrasonically cleaned, if that doesn't do anything then maybe I'll just have to buy one new injector and hope for the best.

Haven't had much time to spend on this but have tested the Speeduino in the car a bit more. I had a problem where it seemed like it wasn't reading the trigger signal but have it working now. When its connected to the car it reads: - Air temp, with a generic Holden/GM sensor. - RPM through the factory loom - Water Temp - MAP (vac line to speeduino onboard sensor) - TPS (BMW one not on the car yet) - Injectors duty cycle I still need to sort out an AFR sensor and controller. Maybe I'll just use the one off the 200sx for now. Previously it just cranked and didn't start but I was happy because it was communicating with sensors etc, this time it actually fired for about 1 second and got up to 1500rpm then died. I view this as a big success though! It does stuff! Even without the TPS fitted since I found I need to remove the throttlebody to get it off the shaft, ran out of time/daily driver things. I can't tell if the fuel pump is running because its so quiet. Maybe it's just not getting fuel. Also, much thanks to @Roman for printing this adapter:

I was thinking I could make something out of aluminium but a 3d printed one would be easier if the guy on NZMX5's is doing it, I've joined now to try find them. Lol, that's a bit weird about being banned.