~Slideways~

I've changed the power feed wires to the coils to a much bigger gauge all the way from the relay to coil plug pins. Thought maybe there could be resistance that got worse with heat? Made no difference at all. Still bloody fun to drive though... Maybe its something to do with the earthing? I have a huge list of things I've tried so far, one day I'll crack the bastard. ---------------- Bought a battery cut off switch thing ages ago so since I desperately need to be doing sanding on the mx5, I made this: I cut the power cable which goes to the battery behind the passenger seat and crimped on some lugs so it joins here. Made a basic plate out of aluminium and covered it in fake carbon wrap because it looks fast. Decided to have it set back a bit so there is plenty of room for gearshifts. It isn't actually finished, I was planning to drive it to work today but it was late and freezing. Just need to drill mounting holes then connect the cables and insulate etc.

My gun shat itself, its the one that came with the Machinery Warehouse unit. The threaded cap that holds the ceramic tip on the gun had gotten jammed on, and refused to come off. Applied a bit too much force to it trying to get it loose and it split down the side. I guess some garnet got stuck in the thread or it got cross threaded. Who knows. So now I need to figure out what kind of gun to get to replace and upgrade it. It was never great, I realised that I could feel air leaking from the trigger too. I've seen the same gun design on Ebay for $20 or so, so its probably a mass produced crappy tolerance thing. I had a look at the BNP copy that Mr Vapour suggested above and not sure it would suit my setup. It needs a pedal and tips so would be close to $200 all up. Do I need to spend that much for home use? I have a decent 2.5hp Ingersoll Rand twin piston belt drive jobby with a big tank. But I get the feeling it won't be enough for a gun like that BNP one? Any suggestions?

That's a possibility, I'm not set on the injector type yet but its good to know these can work. Ideally if I can find something with a longer tip that'd be best rather than making it more complicated than it needs to be. From what I can find, the factory b6 injector is 230cc. The 07 GSXR 600 has two sets: Primaries which have the longer tip and flow 225cc Secondary's which have a stubby tip and flow 460cc So in theory I'd be fine with the primaries if I can find a set. Alternatively I could use the ones I have which are from a 1jzgte VVTi which are around 370cc but may not work due to being a short tip and a wide spray pattern. Also did some more sanding, finding lots of imperfections and dings etc. It's a pain also because in its previous life it had lots of big stickers from events etc but when it was stolen they were apparently torn off with no regard for the paint underneath. So lots of clear coat ripped off which is a pain to have to sand back through all of the layers. After this I'll high fill prime it and do it all again. Then I figured out how to cut the flange model in half in Fusion 360 so I could print out a test (just the first few layers) to see if it was modelled correctly and lines up with the head. Man I'm impressed with this 3d printer! This isn't even at the highest quality, such a good printer for the money.

Measured the jzx100/1jz injectors and they are about 10mm longer than those Honda ones. So not much in it, the stock bike ones must be super short. But it'll be easy enough to make up some spacers for the mounts or to lengthen the mounts. Also, turns out that the fuel rails are a mirror image of each other so if I turn the 'back' rail around, the mounts line up fine with the 'front/main' fuel rail position, giving me an inlet and an outlet. So all I need is an inline regulator. You can see here that the mounts at the back in different positions, but its just a reversed/flipped rail. Bonus! The squirty end does sit a little far back though, will have to test and see if its a problem. These Toyota injectors should give a wide spray pattern, rather than a straight one. Just sitting on the engine doing some measuring. Looks cool though:

Bugger, still does it.

You should be sorry, now I'm getting scope creep...

Just the fact that the 1.5L makes more power and more torque (earlier) is a good sign. Will the head change the compression ratio? Awesome thanks for that, I'll hopefully be able to do some measuring tonight.

Fuck yeah! I wonder how much effect the VVT will have?

Awesome! The head looks so narrow in the engine bay! Really interested to see what sort of performance gain you get when its tuned. I'll persevere with the B6 head for now, funny though because the ZL and ZM heads could basically be like a majorly ported B6. I've seen the gasket comparisons of port size and its huge! EDIT: you should make a build thread about your car?

Thanks guys, definitely an option having a reg/pump setup. Also brazing an outlet onto the bike fuel rail. Alternatively once I am decent at Fusion 360 I could try make the factory injector port into the 3d printed manifold/adapter. On that, amazingly I found a someone has uploaded a GrabCAD model of the intake manifold for the 1.6 'Miata'. This saves heaps of time. The format was a SLDPRT which the free version of Fusion 360 cannot import, so I used the desktop version of GrabCAD workbench to save it as a few different formats. A STEP file format worked and I had something usable in Fusion 360. I was playing around with Fusion 360, what an awesome tool! Spent about 1.5hrs playing around with it and had something resembling an adapter to fit the bike ITB's. Then the laptop/fusion crashed lol... This is what it looked like when it froze and didn't come back. oh well... good practice.

I'll measure them and see, would be good to know so I can maybe grab something from PaP. Back at work now so see you in 6 months

Yep the first rail has the inlet and an outlet which feeds the main rail. The first rail has different mounts and those injectors are before the throttle plates. The first set of throttle plates which I've removed are not usable as the main/only t/b's because they don't seal properly (big gap around the circumference). Probably only used for the bikes for bottom end. If I do use it, the easiest option is just to weld it.

Quick measurements. JZX100/ST215 injectors are too long but the top fits and the bottom would need a different rubber seal. You can see the longer bolts to hold down the rail show how much longer the injectors are. It also doesn't have a regulator or return line outlet. So maybe I should try use the factory rail instead, but that would mean the 3d printed design will be more complicated. Removed the 2nd set of throttle plates: Will need to plug up these holes:

This arrived today, its in the long term plan but it came up for a good price so here we are. It's from a 06/07 model GSXR600 To simplify it I'll remove the first set of throttle plates and try use the GSXR fuel rail, didn't come with injectors but will see what I can do. It has twin rails and 8 injector ports. Will block off the first set etc.

I'll just tidy up the guard he said. No need for anything else he said.

Thinking of respraying my mx5. Its currently silver and ruined by stickers pulling the clear off and scratches/dents etc. Looking at painting it Yellow like the Toyota Aqua. Its kind of orangey, but I like it. Unsure if to go with base coat with 2k clear or just go for 2k colour. I think the clear with be more work but is it better for colour UV resistance etc? It's not a show car and will be a home job.

Some high fill primer, tapping with hammers etc and its looking better. These high spots are hard to feel so its getting close. Tempted to paint it yellow, that Toyota Aqua orange-y yellow.

Will test it in Level 3. Having been sanding the MX5. Here is a photo of the weird fuel pump fuse failure. It's inside the cabin and no chance to get wet, its parked in the garage and has been in use for almost 2 years and 1000's of km's. Has it been a bad contact for all of that time causing the metal to break down/corrode?

It does fit with the behaviour of stopping when it drops to idle doesn't it? Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that connection. I just need an essential driving pass now haha

I watched some of the live speeduino update thing and he was saying that the chip shortage has delayed it and some are unobtainable now, so is having to redesign it. Crazy how many things are being effected now.

Lockdown means a bit more time for projects. Put these on, a 2nd set of factory 15" Enkei's. Really light, the tyres are a bit old but will do for a while. Monster truck ride height, mostly due to not settling...he tells himself. Also have two spare Momo steering wheels, the stock steering wheel is a bit big and the top part moves/twist around a bit which is annoying. Choice of an old Momo competition model from the early 90's I think, slightly smaller than stock but nice thick grip. Or the Momo Corse like I have on the 200sx which is smaller than the Competition. The photo makes it look bigger. Can see the Corse on top is smaller: Decided to try the Corse first. Stock wheel, nice day: Momo Corse, overcast next day: Moving it around on the driveway and its definitely a bit more work due to no power steering but feels good and much more solid feeling than the stock one which had some flex. Also decided to grind back the cracking paint on the drivers side guard, which is where it was dented and I'd hammered it back out. Put some brunox on it for now. Not that I have any kind of top coat to suit...

Since the last update I've put a few thousand km's on it, every time I am impressed by how responsive it is with the relatively big HX35. The exhaust manifold with the small runners must have really helped make it spool early, most likely meaning some restriction in high revs but man it's so good. It STILL has the mystery intermittent misfire. It has a brand new genuine Crank Angle Sensor and I've borrowed a spare R35 coil and tried it in all six position with no change. Takes ages to test since it sometimes will not have the misfire until 30min into a drive, sometimes within 2min. Every time, it goes away if you let it drop to idle. i.e. doesn't come back immediately no matter what the conditions are. But if its doing it and you increase revs, even with clutch in, it will continue to misfire until you let it drop to idle. Bloody frustrating. So I guess I've confirmed it isn't a faulty coil, unless its more than one. Next I'll be trying a temporary constant power to the coils to bypass the relay and loom. The heavy duty clutch, went in earlier in the year and it went on the dyno again. Developed a misfire after being on the dyno for more runs than previous, so likely heat soaked etc, changing the crank sensor filter improved it. Once I came to pick it up, it was still on the dyno and had cooled down. Plan was to show me it misfiring, but it did clean runs, I guess because it had cooled. So I ordered a stupidly expensive genuine sensor. The sensor has been in for a few months, but too busy to do more dyno time and I wanted to try swapping the known good coil. So I am enjoying driving it greatly it's just like this ongoing 5% of the time problem type thing. I move onto another project for a while until I have the enthusiasm to do more 200sx testing. Here are some photo's from putting in the new clutch, took the opportunity to put in some heat shielding since the tunnel gets really hot: Clutch and flywheel: The other day it randomly blew the fuel pump fuse, driving home from work and the engine died. I keep a laptop in the car to connect to the Link and everything seemed fine until I realised I couldn't hear the fuel pump. Really weird failure, it looks like the fuse had been getting hot and melting stuff well before it blew. Work mate suggests it could have been corrosion causing resistance? This is a dedicated power wire from the battery, which is triggered by a relay and the ecu. Strangely it has been fine for almost 2 years... Nasty: I got it home totally fine with a spare fuse. Have now replaced the whole thing. Also the clutch took about 1000km to be much nicer to use.

That's a nice pair of cars, I'm kind of sad I never got an rx7 (and others) before the prices got too high. I came really close to buying an FD rolling body but got my 200sx instead, don't regret it...should have bought both.

I ended up loaning the Laser to someone so have still been using this as a daily driver, so no speeduino testing like planned yet. Soon will hopefully have a ST202 Celica wof'd to take over that idea. I did cut up the spare stock 1.6 exhaust manifold though, I plan to reuse the flange to make something that flows a bit better. Kind of keen to make a stupidly long bendy spaghetti thing just because. It's strange that they put the tube inside the hole instead of outside so it would match the head ports? Maybe its easier to weld? The flange on the other end is necked down to about 41mm or 1inch and 5/8 other-inch-parts once you account for the internal welding again. Again, pretty small considering the ports work out to be about 38mm. Out of interest I cut it off at the collector to see how bad those squished tubes are, and while this looks bad: Its not actually THAT bad, at least they are shaped to meet in the centre I suppose: The ports measure to about the same as a 38mm tube so I'll probably just make something out of mild steel mandrel bends.

Awesome thanks for the info.