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~Slideways~

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Everything posted by ~Slideways~

  1. Time is an illusion. Anyway, the zx12r engine came with an aftermarket sandwich plate for a remote oil cooler. Which I returned to the seller. I do have the factory water cooling sandwich plate but not the centre bolt to mount it. So I was left with nothing in the block to thread a filter onto. I found that the ZX10 has a normal threaded tube, so bought one of those from a motorbike parts place. But the filter sealing surface on the block is much bigger than the Zx10 was. So I have 3 possible filters to try one was JUST too small to seal, then another...which was JUST too big to seal, the 3rd the internet told me would fit. It was no where near. The thread is a common M20 1.5 so surely there is something that will fit. I want to get the engine running, which would be good motivation or at least to make some vroom noises. Also, since that last post. From the before times, I have put in big pallet racking along the back wall and shuffled the N360 around on trolleys. Which has been preventing me from working on the 200sx (well along with a lot of other priorities). I decided to make a car trolley thing out of steel I salvaged from a big work clear out and some stuff I had from other projects. This is the first version: I put some 18mm ply on it, but ended up adding/welding on some thick angle iron across the front and rear once the body was up there. Not sure what it weighs, but factory its something like 550kg. So minus the engine, gbox, most interior, doors, bonnet, rear axle and windscreen it's probably something around half that? Getting it up there was fun: Chain block: Transmission jack: And up: It's on braked casters so can roll it over the mr2. Quite good having the floor area back, as well as having a better look at it. I also have some Honda City disk brakes and knuckles to see if they will fit. Looks like a very similar clamp that goes onto the bottom of the strut, but may need a notch ground into it.
  2. Cool I didn't know this was a thing, where did you get it from?
  3. The sound of the 5 1/4 drive reading those disks, like a time machine.
  4. So cool, I happen to show my 9 year old KQ3 over the weekend (and Doom, Wolf3d and Commander Keen) all on a 486 66mhz jobby. I remember first playing KQ6 and was like, holy crap the graphics man! I still want to finish KQ3 one day. I have save game files from 30 odd years ago.
  5. Had to change the radius arm bushes for a wof, man what a bastard to get out. I had this press frame from my wifes uncle years ago, never used it because it didn't come with a hydraulic ram or anything. Now, it looks to me that it was designed to use a bottle jack, but from the bottom. Bought a cheap 20T bottle jack, with the intention of modifying it to work upside down. But it worked reasonably well as is, pretty awkward balancing it though. At first it just pushed the rubber out and left the outer sleeve behind. So I tried a few different things the same diameter as the outer sleeve but they all bent or crushed. That sleeve was not wanting to come out, so I cut a slot in it and chiseled it out. Then I made a round plate the diameter of the outer sleeve, out of 10mm mild steel flat bar. I thought that'd easily work. Snapped one bolt in the frame, doesn't look like high tensile to me though. Found some more better bolts. Tried again and got one out with a loud crack each time it moved another 5mm. Even bent the 10mm plate. New Nissan Genuine bushes as well as the rear chassis/frame mount ones. I made another 10mm plate with a hole in the centre for the centre sleeve to rest in while pushing against the outer sleeve. They went back in nicely, super satisfying after the bastard it was to get the old ones out. Few hundred in bushes but it'll last another few decades hopefully. EDIT: Wof man laughed and said he's done heaps of them and the press fittings get ruined after doing only a couple. Sometime you have to gas axe the bolts/bushes at the rear of the arm as well. So I guess I got off lightly. EDIT2: yes my workshop is a mess. I'm reorganising while putting up more shelves... that's the excuse at the moment anyway.
  6. Drove it to work today and man it feels great, these are such fun cars to drive. Just makes you want to heel toe down shifts everywhere like an idiot. Also feels really good with the upgraded sway bars I put on just before starting the 'just fix that dent'. Smaller Momo steering wheel is much nicer than the stock one and a bit more leg room. A bit harder at slow speeds with the manual rack. EDIT: typos.
  7. Wof'd again after almost exactly 2 years, had to put a set of new rotors on it. It was 3 degrees C and late but I wanted to drive it again Not totally done with the paint, probably going to have to redo the clear coat on the bonnet. Not sure what happened but it wasn't fully hardened so the 1500 wet sand put scratches in it. Very annoying but it looks good if you don't look too closely lol.
  8. Yeah I am leaning towards just using the 1000cc Xpurts again. A few people have said they should be fine. I not sure what the problem was with them appearing to make it run rich at high rpm. Maybe it was number 4 not completing combustion or something similar?
  9. I also ended up send the Link ECU back to Link in Christchurch to put it through their stress testing etc. It made sense since I had no explanation for the intermittent misfire. That GOD DAMN misfire I have been chasing for bloody years. A few weeks later and I have had a reply stating: Visual inspection revealed a solder blob between IGN5 and 14V NOT making a direct short circuit. This could change under load +temperature+humidity ratio conditions. Fault however could not be replicated on the bench. Removed solder ball and tested ECU. Passed functional stress test. So not a certain cause but also a possible cause? All of this time and it may have been a manufacturing defect completely out of my control? ...fck.
  10. That now leaves me with what to do. I can't get new injectors, Toyota NZ confirm they are not available. Next option is to get some Bosch 630cc's (from a known supplier, because fck that noise) so they still have a pintle cap for a proper spray pattern. I message the local guy and he is certain that I should just use the Xspurt 1000's that I originally did. He was going to talk to Chris at Prestige but haven't heard back yet. I guess they do work, but not efficiently.
  11. The other thing to sort was injectors, the st215 ones I had been using had cracks in the plastic of a few. Another 2 flowed 8-10% less than the others. So I thought to keep it simple I will buy some brand new genuine denso/toyota injectors. Found a seller on ebay with lots of good feed back, selling these exact injectors and stating 100% guarantee genuine. They were $299 AUD, not $50 sets from Aliexpress. So I thought I was safe. About $400 NZD landed. They arrived and many things pointed to being fakes. They even came in 'genuine' Toyota boxes. In the end the most glaring was the pintle cap holes are rough compared to real ones. I noticed the bar code looked very generic, i.e. repeating patterns which shouldn't happen. I went back to the seller and they 'don't know what you are talking about' and 'I sell these to Toyota Service Centres in NSW'. I even spoke to Mark at Toyota in NZ and he said the label was convincing but the number used was not correct. I tested a bar code reader on the cambelt I bought recently and the barcode matches the part number on the label, but these fake labels just display gibberish. He has agreed to a refund and I have sent them back. So that was/is a pain in the arse to deal with but as long as Ebay's refund system actually work I should be ok. What a cnut though.
  12. Another thing I wanted to change was the location of the second wastegate, it works but the vacuum line gets too hot. I've tried a few things to solve it but now that it's all out I will move the wastegate up and away from the heat. It means changing both ends of the wastegate but it'll be worth it. Cut off: Test fit on engine to see what I can do, it's easy enough to just raise it up but the hard part is making sure the exit doesn't get in the way of the brake master cylinder. It was looking quite close so I ended up putting the engine back in so I can be sure. Bloody good to have it back in, but since I didn't have the pulley o-ring at this stage it still need the cam belt and pulleys etc. Got TGP bits to finish that:
  13. This water hard line points to the turbo down pipe, and gets in the way. It is the outlet for the heater, which is on the other side in the Nissan vs the Toyota. So I cut it off and welded it up, plus jb weld to be sure. Gives more clearance and simplifies the water lines by moving the hose to the other side of the engine. Normally the rest of the hard line is just to feed the oil cooling sandwich plate and the water feed to the idle stepper motor controller jobby. So I made a hole on that side which is under the intake manifold and much closer to the heater inlet on the firewall. Welded on, yes it's coming from a smaller pipe but I don't think it'll cause too much problem with the heaters water flow. Also covered with a little JB Weld since I had it.
  14. Remembered a while ago that I needed to replace the o-ring in the VVti pulley. Toyota don't sell the o-ring, only a complete pulley. I thought surely it can't be that hard to find a suitable one. There are a few people that sell nice Viton o-rings specifically for this but at $20 USD for the o-ring plus $40 to $160 postage (wtf 165??) I wanted to try source locally. Golbey's in Aus sell one, but didn't specify if Viton or not. I asked and they confirmed it is only Nitrile, which isn't really suitable since it appear to only handle 100deg C. When Viton is 200ish. Went to one of the local o-ring places, bought one that looked like it would work. Turned out to be slightly too thick. Then I found Seal Innovations' website has a search function where you can specify the ID and the width/thickness of the o-ring, plus the material. Found one that I thought would be perfect but it is out of stock, a week later they said it was now in the country but still being processed then it'll be sent to Wellington. Long story short I picked it up yesterday and it looks to be a perfect fit. That held me up for about 3 weeks...I really should have looked into it earlier. Here is the very perished and flat o-ring: VVti pulley has locating grooves for all three gears, plus a match mark so is simple enough to put back together, just remember to mark the timing beforehand.
  15. I wonder if some periodic water injection would help?
  16. It's yellow! came out pretty good for my first time painting with 2k clear. On the day I had issues with the clear coat and it ended up quite orange peely. When I did the tests a few posts back it came out nice and flat, I think it must have been the temperature on the day. So I've waited a while and tested wet sanding and it's coming out great. Just an extra step I wouldnt have had to do if the clear went on better. Oh well I'll see how I go when I paint the doors and see if it comes out better. Really happy with the colour, it looks a bit more orange in photos.
  17. Thanks man, good advice. They look super easy to assemble due to the match marks, but I think I know which part you mean (the smallest centre one) that can be put in backwards? Don't suppose you have a source for the correct o-ring maybe? I've been to the local o-ring supplier and I did buy two that were closest but I don't think they are going to work now. One is Viton but slightly too thick, it needs to be worked/stretch like all of those rebuild videos do, it then fits the groove but sits too high with not enough room to compress/expand. The other fits perfectly but is Nitrile so rated to only 100 degrees. So not really good enough. Shipping is insane from overseas for the ones listed on Amazon etc. Like $40 shipping for one o-ring!? Goleby's in Aus have a listing but it doesn't say if it is Viton, so I've messaged them to see. Hopefully that isn't as ridiculous for shipping.
  18. Haha I think that will be an even harder task to get registered again! I wonder how it ended up like that?
  19. The short block is back together, I didn't do it myself because I didn't want it to be my first diy rebuild and stuff it up. Those 1jz's are going for $10k these days?! Plus $2k worth of pistons etc etc. I will save the diy build practice for the 4wd lancer thing. I dropped off some ARP head studs, the head has been skimmed and need some work on the exhaust valve side plus getting new stem seals. In the mean time I found that the HX35 had some play, not too bad but since it was on the bench I decided to get a rebuild kit. The journal bearing on the exhaust side has taken a beating and the compressor side seems fine. I can feel the play with the exh side on on the shaft while the comp side seems ok. It kind of looks like the exh end one got hot, I did find that the seals right next to it were a pretty tight fit, i.e. the ones already in there. When I replaced them I made sure they weren't as tight. These little buggers are a pain, had to file down these to make them fit New bearing in: Polished shaft: Back together, really had to fight the dinner plate sized c-clip that holds the comp cover on, that thing wants to decapitate you: Next will be to take apart the VVti pulley since it is leaking. Toyota officially says don't rebuild it, but plenty of people have, and those people keep the exact o-ring type a secret so they can charge $20 for an o-ring and a million dollars postage. I will try the local place. Made some timing markings with a scribe thing.
  20. Time man, is it even real? Like, how do months disappear? Anyway, I semi turned this power less garage into a sort-of-paint-booth by adding lighting and covering stuff with the remains of an old marque. I originally started covering the ceiling during the GIB crisis of 2022, now it just looks like I am a redneck. I think the body is ready for some colour, it took ages to sand the door jams and to remove all of the latches/trim/etc. Not sure when I'll do it, I do have some leave coming up for the kids school holidays but it'll probably all disappear again. Door jams I'll paint the doors separately after sanding the inside bits. Not really enough room to do them at the same time as the body. Next I need to mask again since most of the masking tape has aged and dried out. It'll be done one day. My main reason for not getting this done yet is I spent the time on cars to sell and down size. So I got the FWD lancer donor car road legal and sold that before Xmas, then I got the Safari wof'd (rust work etc) in order to daily that instead of the Celica. Then I sold the Celica. Man I don't like selling cars, so many annoying people to deal with. But that's 2 cars off my plate and a bit of money back, plus I have the Safari to get me to work.
  21. Man, I must have had this a decade now? Failed recent WOF on a few things. Front Panhard rod play, it's an aftermarket adjustable 'Toughdog' brand one and was a little worried about sourcing bushes. But thankfully I found that they use Nissan genuine ones, which multiple sources say are the best anyway. Pushed them out with a combination of using the vice and some bashing: While ordering parts I finally replaced the bonnet stopper jobbies. This one was... New ones look nice, no photo though. Also the drag link had play in it, it's the factory one which is not rebuildable (well economically anyway). So replaced it with an upgraded heavy duty chromoly one with replaceable ends: The rear brake light has had a crack in it for as long as I can remember, wof man didn't like it. So bought a new one. It's so clean and not sun faded! The main wof fail was rust hidden behind the radiator, it's likely been like that for all 10 years. It took a wof inspector who's knows the problem area to actually find it. It honestly took about 10 minutes trying to find it myself, it's that difficult to see. Real pain in the ass to fix but go it done. I missed the 28 days because I injured my back (unrelated) then got covid (probably also unrelated). Only photo I can find, which is actually the front where I reinforced it, not the prettiest but it's solid. The bad bit was behind this on the other side in a tight spot. That wire is just a 'zip tie' holding the A/C condenser out of the way. So ended up getting another wof check at the same place, all passed but now noted that the radius arm bushes need doing soon. Old cars man...
  22. I like this, jumping right in there firewall cutting and all. I've never driven the 2.5 but the 3.5 is such a good engine, always surprises me how it can haul a reasonably big car along. What does an '08 GS350 weigh? Googles...apparently 1700kg-ish! Man, remove about 800 of those and you're onto a winner!
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