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Jase

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Everything posted by Jase

  1. bit overpriced really the 280mm rotor is an off the shelf bolt on item pretty much and single pots are no better than piazza disks, i think i will order some cross drilled rotors from the manta gte and bolt on the volvo calipers, never just that simple but can't be any harder than nutting out the rims
  2. i will shorten the diff before i would ever put flares on it as they are yuck unless i went extreme with mega sized wheels etc, option one shorten the gemini housing and go in board as far as i can and buy a piazza lsd 'swear' and strengthen the torque tube with steam pipe and then trim the spline back on the gemini axles and have them shot peened and fit i have some commodore calipers to use and will set this up as i go, i would also mount a solid bearing in the front of the torque tube instead of the rubber mount, option two buy a 3.9 b1600 diff and set up with redrilled axles etc and then i have my detroit locker that will bolt straight in and find an lsd for the ute as it isn't going to have trouble moving around out the back, option two wins fuck 23 spline axles detroit ftw, also price factor as i havn't had the drive shaft done yet and will be good to sort it before i break it, hilux diffs are over priced and have shit lsds really for what they are, no disrespect to the fans i just dont want to pay 2g for a conversion i can likely do and make tougher for $800
  3. a holdfast product 202 clear, and a strip of bike tube over the join as one didn't seal first go, seems that it will work but takes 14 days to cure tire guy gave it a go after a few hours but no dice, without the proper cure and no strip of tube
  4. yuck with no weight on the suspension, need a sierra radiator any one got a spare? and oil cooler
  5. instead of buying new springs why not go to saeco and get a brass bush to shim the ones you have out, probably cost less and would work fine, or you could machine stainless ones real easy
  6. they are 215/45s that i picked up for $50 to get it rolling surprisingly wofable though, the colour is crc zinc copper cold galv the shit you spray on welds before undersealing etc, one can to do all the centers twice, 205 40s are on the shopping list but will mod the guards to suit the 215s so i have some leeway when i load it up to drive ie gas back bumper full zorst , the rims are sex width and offset 15 inch would be better than 16 for proportions sake but meh i like em and will look to do a set of 14s or 15s to run slicks and have these for on the road. colour offset
  7. I don't think i have a discussion for the gemi, so post your thoughts, i know its taking ages to get anywhere but all ideas are welcome, trying to go JDM/Euro style bodywise with a bogan flair ie the little v8
  8. i filled an a3 sheet of paper with the list of jobs that need to be done before certification, but ticked a few off last night, refitted motor glued up the wheels and got the car back together to look at extractors water pump and removing the stupid steering damper and putting in a smaller unit , i don't like the glass flares i got so they will hit trademe today, whether i can roll the guards enough i don't know , glue takes a bit to set thats why the tires(215 45 16s) are off the bead , yuck mazda rotor van and a dubious looking spoiler guess the car
  9. has anyone done the conversion ? I know adaptors for the calipers will need to be likely made but looking at what disks would work?
  10. argh i knew i was right in not buying that little red chevette, have you got the ported shaved head on it?, sounds like overfueling and weak spark, the dissy housings in 1256 engines are prone to running the bushes and causing the points to burn out frequently, i would check that there is an even gap with a feeler gauge as you wind it through the cyclinders, ditch the old leads and grab something from an efi ca16 pulsar or such normally had clear helicoiled leads, check the size of the chokes in your 28/36 as it maybe set up with open chokes that are probably too big, these carbs are tuneable but normally on 1500's up, it maybe worth looking into going to an electronic ignition, other thing is what size exhaust are you running and how well is everything sealed, vacuum leaks = backfires and choking overun
  11. argh saw maybe your old one at new years? was in ahipara and went head to head up the beach with one, was wondering if it was turbs as it went pretty hard, old mans 250 xd lsd and manual 3 spd ftw but couldn't hear it as i knocked the exhaust off coming through the soft sand and it spent the rest of the time running extractors and a 2 1/4 straight side pipe,
  12. looking pretty tough man 4zc1 good score hard to find motor
  13. little bit of progress yesterday removed fuel tank spare wheel carrier and started wiring , need to lower the front tommorow and list the nolathane i need
  14. dummied this up to see if the colour balances and frankly i like it, for a homer paint job baked in the oven i think they came out ok
  15. if they are prepped i know a guy that does them fairly cheap, not sure of the colours he can do though, will ask when i drop my stuff to him this week
  16. Jase

    s11 silvia diff

    depends on your tire circumference as well 13s are obviously going to make it feel like a low diff but , depending on your stz 17s would lift the ratio back up, ie you have dropped the ratio by 15 odd % so if you increase tire size by that it will be the same,
  17. yeah i wonder if the green ones had probs as one of those is running upside down, backwards lol won't be doing that aye had an ol te125 that would run bacwards, ie warm it up , up hill to stall then rolling back in gear pop the clutch baap in reverse, insane lil twostrokes
  18. as i figure the sc14s are a sealed unit so they must just pool oil in the rear casing so i should be able to run it upside down, then i can still run the set up i want, thats an impressive skid must have the tires goin like 250kmh or has something real heavy in the tray
  19. yuh and it died not long after that photo was taken WTF are you guys smoking? That aint no A series. Yes you can run an S/c14 on a commy, but i'd strongly advise you use an intercooler. They can be mounted flat rather than over and under like the factory did it. Thats how mine is mounted. haha really lol would like to see skid link though
  20. best option man short of putin a more modern motor in and a five speed, rangi in hikurangi has a 308 v8 in his hb works at the dump
  21. series twos are a bit hardier the green ones a two you can tell by the return to the radiator, ones from the back twos from front
  22. the motor in that datto is a series one though
  23. looks to be it's a series two so i'm safe, m90 was on the ecotecs and xxxxe
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