keltik

Fill up with BP 98. Should give you plenty of oomph to make it in time

Count me in

$250....where do i sign. Ive already made some cunty/tricky hoses so the bends wont be a problem. would be mint to have 1 3/4 outlets tho - dont like running silly reducers. Ive got a an EA81 slimline AC fan which fits between the radiator and crank pulley and a Supercheap shitbox pusher on the other side. So all set

Oooooh radiator. What'd that sting you? Ive got one with a patched up hole i dont trust and another which is so haggard it struggles to keep the EJ cool

Ah sweet. Im using the 190mm factory spec piss poor Legacy one and its holding together quite well actually. Doesnt give me any slip issues. So i think youd be ok for a while.

Good to see it running. What clutch did you end up going with?

Screw waiting for courier. Went for doort instead: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XIWzcWpZg8 Looking forward to 2 weeks off work to sort those gearbox mounts and harass whymacks

Found secret orifice that was dumping gallons of raw fuel into intake. Bought part to fix it for $30. Now waiting for the courier

The sump/pan only holds around 2 to 4 liters of ATF. The rest (4ish liters?) stays in the torque converter and valve body so the "only" way to change all of the fluid is with a fancy flush machine. One semi useful way of doing a full fluid change yourself is to drain the oil, refill, drive 10mile, repeat. After 2 fills and drains - the oil left in the torque converter and valve body will be mostly clean.

Pictures and small update: Bought $10 carb from wreckers. Stole bits out of it. Combined these bits with bits from 2 other carbs i have lying around and created one which is almost good. Just need one new seal and im sorted. Car runs mint, idles good, drives well. Opened it up to full noise through 2nd and 3rd, it makes good power to about 6,000rpm then starts running out of breath. Quite happy with that. Apologies to any people in Ashhurst that were harmed in the making of that discovery.

I think i might have tracked down some of my crappy running issue which has recently developed into a "running like a 2stroke at quarter throttle" issue. The car was running ludicrously rich so i figured the best place to start would be by checking the fuel pressure. I didnt have a gauge and couldnt find anyone willing to loan me one - so i bought a gauge, and got a good deal on a regulator at the same time. After setting my fuel pressure at a nice 2psi, the car runs even worse. So i popped the top off the carb and had a lookie at the jets. They were all close to the specs for a 2L so i set the float level and reassembled the carb. Im now fairly certain that the float needle valve is nakkered. The fuel pump doesnt come up to pressure and then shut off - it keeps ticking very slowly. In fact i just today noticed what appears to be raw fuel leaking out from the PCV valve at the back of the manifold. So will throw a new valve in it and see what happens. Maybe then i can finally be done with this gay rich running problem. On the bright side - i did manage to wire up my Push button engine start and ignition switch. Also managed to get my air filter installed nicely - so things are still getting done. Alas - car still runs crap

Had a look at the sparking plugs and that motor is running richer than 50cent. Plugs were blacker than him too. Checked the jets, set the float level, hit things with a hammer and have come to the conclusion im running too much fuel pressure. Or theres a secret orifice somewhere in the carb thats dumping gallons of gas into the mix. Hookups for cheap FPR?

Will bring my penis, please ensure Shayla is informed

Bought a few from steel and tube and ground them to fit. Looks slightly gay, but functional. Just like most of the things i own. Plus it only cost me $3

I lol'd

Ok the latest. Video explains most of what im about to type so worth a watch if you're following this project. Engine was stone cold when pulling out of my driveway with no choke so dont read too much into that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4Q2RnDVB-o Starts fine. Idle seems to hunt between about 600rpm and 1100rpm. The idle mixture screw doesnt really have much effect. It farts and fecks around on certain throttle positions but will run just fine on others. Getting onto the secondaries elicits more farting and popping through the carb and exhaust but once the carbs fully open - she usually takes off like a cut cat. Still got to sort out my gearbox mount (but i think ive found a solution) and get a new radiator fitted after my current one did its best water fountain impersonation. Then i can worry more about tuning and all that jazz. I've a feeling that the leads and plugs are rather shot, i know the cap is pretty worn out. Will replace with new units before i start stressing about this crappy running issue.

Will post pics as soon as possible. I think its one of those things that looks really gay in photos but is easy to spot in person. But i shall try! On a completely unrelated side note. Took the car out again tonight using a chock of wood as a temporary mount and discovered a shitload of problems to address once ive figured this out.

Have some 6mm Flat bar. So your thinking a couple pieces of that welded to the EJ16 mount location then run the 4 inches backwards to the EA71 mounts. Yeah that could work!! I was a bit worred about it being too flexible, but given the fact the 6mm bar will be used vertically and thats the direction of force - shouldnt be a problem right?

Ok, Ive been trying to think of a clever way to do this for far too long. My original plan doesnt look so easy using the lack of talent/tools that i have. Willing to pay someone to do it as long as they dont want too many moneys. Suggestions on good places in Palmerston North?

Current power estimate is around 1.21Jigawatts at the wheels. Which as we all know has been impossible up to this point without a flux capacitor. Turns out Doc couldve just used a carbed EJ22 instead

Will be there. In which car is the question

Been slowly slogging away at bits n pieces the last couple weeks. Managed to get 90% of the stuff in the engine bay finished. Got the gear linkage hooked up and have a clutch cable coming from Holdaways on Tuesday. Did a bit of shoddy panelbeating too. Replaced my munted drivers side gaurd and rusted out passenger side door. Then gave it all a sand and a lick of paint to make it look less rediculous. The idea behind this paint job is to make all the panels match and look ok from a distance. Its a bit shit when you get up close but it accomplishes its purpose. Eventual plans will involve a proper spray job if the car gets back on the road ok. And no thats not overspray on the window - just dust from sanding. Going in for an exhaust on wednesday and hopefully will have the gearbox mounts made and fitted this week too. Then all i need is some luck and a temperature gauge and i can take it for a drive. Still got a bit of rust to fix and a couple spots to tidy up before i can get it registered but this is looking very do-able now.

Easier to offset motor mounts and move the engine forward 10mm?

I cant speak for ford boxes....but having dealt with pull clutch boxes the last few years - i noticed a few annoying things putting the push clutch box in my hatch. It also rattles a wee bit at idle. The 2 small spring clips get easily bent when removed from the old release bearing. Had to remove the box and fiddle with them to get them to hold the release bearing onto the fork properly. Theres also a steel clip on the clutch fork that holds it onto the pivot ball. It had gotten a little bent and fell out on my first install. Easy to miss. Dont know how much of this helps you as ive never worked on a ford box....but i'd imagine theyre pretty similar.

140mm actually. Now that i look at the trademe ones - the pcd does seem a little small Edit: Link http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =334590771 And looks like snow has his eyes on them too Edit Again: Actually if he measured the studs adjacent to each other - that would be 100mm but still be a 140mm PCD.