keltik

1 - no idea 2 - I believe the diff and halfshafts have to be removed and the suspension setup adjusted for RWD. What kinda car is it?

The internet doesnt know they exist due to them not being american.

Churrrrr Spence!

Throttle shafts have replaceable bushes on these? Or do you have to bore them out and fit sleeves as on the DGV carbs?

Its bogging down coming onto the throttle, accel pump is squirting in goobs of fuel. It also decides to die when the secondaries engage sometimes. Does massive backfires on trailing throttle. Basically it idles well, crusies at part throttle and thats about all its doing right. Cap and leads appear to be in good order so i dont believe its them at fault.

Excellent! But seriously, i have a throttle body injection setup in my bucket of parts, could be keen to bolt that on if theres no bolt on solution from toyota to get this thing humming properly again.

Cheers kaptain K. Thats about 20 inches by 12 then?

Dont spose any of you fine gents would know the bolt spacing of a 21RU carb. Can i please put a weber on because this toyota nonsense makes no sense to me.

Add another muffler? Like $20 worth of welding and just find a free muffler someone else has chopped out

Yeah this thing needs some lovin/super dodgy wof and a summer of shenanigans. I shall oblige from henceforth. Mods feel free to adjust the thread title. I dont think im allowed to do that

Have been failed for having no water in the squirty bottle. Told the guy to get fucked and that i'd piss in it if he didnt quit dicking around. He didnt like the idea of squirting piss around in his garage so ticked the box. VTNZ are cunts.

Correct, test was administered under the watchful eye of a certified Holden spannerer. Static CR is listed as 10.7:1, factory service manual says 185-210 is the expected pressure.

Oil is about 5,000km old. Have always changed it at 10,000. Gets a factory filter each time so its been looked after. Number 2 with the oily plug read 150psi, number 3 on the opposite bank read 180psi. I know that doesnt really tell much but couldnt be fucked doing all 6. Had a curry to cook. Oh well, at least now i have another oldschool vehicle to drive while i fix it up.

Looks expensive.

Taking the engine out is a piece of cake so thats no worry. Takes half hour with the right tools. The gay bit is taking the timing chain covers off. Over 80 bolts for that alone.

Its not cranking evenly....turned the injectors off and sat on the starter for a bit. You can definitely hear one cylinder labours more than the rest. Any thoughts?

drill + tap main and big end caps, fit grease nipples Willing to bet tortrons truck has this feature

Hmm...yes i think i see it. Drivers side bank; Passenger side bank; Plug number 1 on the passenger bank was wet with oil. 2 and 3 are a bit gunky but not as bad. Also....that was a slightly cunty job, but im willing to bet nowhere near as hard as a transverse v6

Yeah i mean im all for Boxer engines, i really do love em. But doing anything on the heads in car is just a cunt. Especially when youve got 24 valves worth of shims being supported by magic once you whip the cams out. I guess this isnt the only reason i'd change the engine, i was wanting to do it anyways. If i actually liked the motor i would have no trouble spending the dough to spruce it up. But after 4 years of people saying "oh youve got the gay spec one....." Im keen to do it.

Wrecker man is getting back to me shortly with a price on basic longblock and intake. Will swap all my current ancillaries onto new motor. Most stuff should be identical since they only differ in the heads. Sensors are the same etc. If he can do it for less than $1500 delivered...it will be engine swap time this weekend. Will flick the old motor on for a cheap price and someone will get a pretty good deal i reckon.

Actually while im thinking about it. If its intake stem seals, i should see black fouling on the plugs of the affected cylinders yeah?

Fuckin' Peugeots......lols Well lets see, forgive me for thinking out loud for a second but someone might chime in with something useful; If stem seals are in need of replacement, that would require heads off. Heads off would require engine out, new head gaskets, new intake gaskets, chain assembly and cover removed. Removing the timing chain would be bad because i couldnt reinstall it in good conscience with worn chain guides. I would then feel compelled to do the water pump and idlers at the same time. So im looking at least $800 in parts to get the current motor overhauled to a satisfactory standard. Or replace with a newer 2008 spec motor with waaaay more power and 100,000 less kms on it for approx $1500. Spend an hour or 2 on the dyno to retune then sell the old motor to recoup costs. Or drive it into the ground and be a cunt ruining the environment.

I want my pizza back!

Yeah sadly, bumper is getting turned to a oily sooty shitmess. Comes on strong as soon as i hit the throttle at the bottom of a hill. Fuck if i have to pull the heads off this thing the motor is getting binned. So not worth rebuilding. Mildly ironic considering a week ago i wanted to drop in the newer motor.....now i might need to.

Hai all. Im having some trouble with the wagon, i realise that its not strictly oldschool - but you fellahs are probably the most technically minded active forum im a member of. The Subaru club forums are just fucking useless and will tell me to check silly things that dont even apply. I honestly will get better answers here! Plus, I want to buy a particular oldschool vehicle, but cant really do that if i need to spend all of my currently available cash on the daily driver. Rightyho, so a week ago when the weather picked up i started driving around with the windows down and could sniff out just a tiny whiff of burning oil. I recently split a rear CV boot and figured it was that so just ignored it. Anywhoo - had Vintage Grumble following me on the weekend with his Go-Pro and he showed me that my car is actually burning a bit of oil. Further examination reveals the following; * Runs fine, maybe a smidge rich at times * Doesnt smoke significantly under load, even high rpm full load * Has never used any oil before in its life and if it IS using oil now - its not enough to notice yet * Smokes a lot when you get back on the throttle after coasting for a bit * Smokes more the longer you coast for * Isn't a PCV fault as the problem repeats even with all breathers unhooked * Doesnt appear to have blow-by issues since the breathers dont vent under load. This problem has developed relatively quickly, ive only noticed it in the last week and its quickly gone from being a small problem to turning the road blue at the bottom of the mokoroa gorge. Its got over 200,000kms on this motor now and 120,000kms of those were at full throttle under my foot....so im not exactly suprised its showing signs of age. Im thinking valve guides?