keltik

Waikanae beach motel for me too. Will have a spare bed in there if anyone else wants to go halves. Churrrrrr

Take your pick of Adventras if nothing else tows.

Run premix and oiler like a true barry. Like rolling coal, but rolling umm....what can we call blue fog?

Camshaft is still in China. Might end up on the 125 if someone doesnt start hurrying the fuck up with my post

Yup, I'm in. Will bring a GN. Either my one or Jazz's if she doesnt pass her licence in time.

No hanger at all on the single piece shaft. Had one on my BC5 back in 2007 but cant remember what it came off. More likely youre just going to need to fit 2 hoops. They arent too hard, you'll just need to fabricate your own to fit in the front bit of tunnel. Can probably use the mounting holes for the auto trans crossmember as an easy starting point for the front one?

Hoops on the front and rear sections or find yourself a one piece shaft off some oddball BG/GC/cant remember what it was. Will need a cert for power increase but shouldnt need one for the gearbox conversion since you're using an OE crossmember I believe. Will also need the brakes on your plate. Also im sure you've lowered it so make sure your camber is up to scratch or buy some adjustable bits to fix that before you get it checked.

He'll touch you in inappropriate places sexually repeatedly

Anyone?

I could drag a couple kayaks across the harbor, got 2 available plus a selection of other small boats Velobike vs scooter hillclimbing could be a winner

Oh yeah, totally right. For anything oddball or old - its probably going to be worthwhile. But unless you're saving more than 2-3k or if you plan on fully pulling the thing to bits and rebuilding it anyways, this is not the way to go. So the moral of the story is: If you want a cheap daily, just no. If you want to revin something reasonable (Mr Duddley), consider repair cert first and prepare to need one...then its a piece of cake

The money The car - $300 Auction Fees - $280 Transport to collect vehicle - $160 WOF inspection - $45 Front bumper - $240 MAF sensor - $70 Fog light brackets - $40 Brake rotors, pads and fluid - $120 Suspension bushes - $90 Entry certification/compliance insection - $485 Registration with 12 months licence - $320 Total: $2150 Bits scavenged from my other Lancaster donor car: ??? (max $600 since thats all i paid for it) What I couldve bought an equivalent model for off trademe: $3,500 - $4,500 Was it worth the effort? NO Was it a satisfying experience building something with my own hands? NO Would i recommend this to a friend? NO, JUST GO BUY ONE READY MADE!

Hi chaps, I know many are curious about getting a car re-vinnnned, re-complied or re-registered. Theres good info on this site but rules change all the time. So thought i'd share my recent experiences here for all others to enjoy and benefit from. What I did and what i learned - First, the buying I had been keeping an eye on turners end of life for a vehicle with a nice interior so i could tidy up my current daily driver build. My first effort to buy a car was from the Auckland branch of turners and I quickly learned that due to the masses of competition from wreckers, if you know something is worth money, they probably do too. A 1999 Subaru Lancaster wagon, auto with leather interior was listed. Stolen recovered, written off and running / driving fine. It had some reasonable cosmetic damage on the outside. I was expecting to pay up to $700 and it ended up going for a grand. I later found exactly the same model car but manual and in the Wellington/Palmerston North branch auction. Again, stolen recovered, driveable and appeared in reasonable shape. I won this vehicle for $300. Looking at how the other auctions progressed, there really wasnt as much interest from general wreckers. Interesting vehicles were still being snapped up for a healthy sum, but the generally buggered stuff a dismantler would normally go for just wasnt being bid on with the same enthusiasm as the Auckland auctions. Turners Online - TLDR summary - Photos are mostly lies and dont represent the vehicle adequately - The staff arent really used to individuals buying vehicles...or maybe i just got someone new. Anyways they told me the car was in Palmerston North (it wasnt) and i would have to sign papers at their office before collection (i didnt). - You only get 2 days to collect the vehicle before storage charges apply. - The best way to solve the above 3 problems is to contact the towing agency that has the vehicle (usually stated in auction) and they will be happy to make arrangements for collection or fill you in on the condition and location of the car. - You will have to pay auction buyers fees. In my case, this was $280. The minimum fee possible....which nearly doubled the cost of the car. Re-registering First I took the car for a WOF inspection. This was a great way to pay $45 and get a very good idea of what was going to need fixing on the car. I would say a WOF covered all of the mechanical things that are checked as part of the "entry certification" process. Once the mechanicals were sound, i gave the body a quick poke to ensure there was no rust. On the type of vehicle I bought, this is easy. A 1998 Subaru isnt likely to be rusty. Everything looked good except the front radiator support crossmember. So i wire brushed the flaky paint off and slammed some underseal on it. If you had an old car, i can imagine this is going to be the part that ruins your day. The Inspection So to my great annoyance, the only place i could take my car within a 2 hour drive was the local VTNZ. There are no other options. What a shitty monopoly especially given the stellar reputation VTNZ stations have. Anyways, they were lovely to deal with and explained exactly what paperwork i would need. - Statutory declaration to state the vehicle is mine. VTNZ provided an easy to fill out form which had to be verified/sighted by a JP. - Proof of previous registration on NZ roads (I had the previous WOF inspection sheets and the vehicle was only de-registered for 4 weeks) - A declaration from my parts supplier that the brake components i had replaced were acceptable for purpose and intended for this application. BNT printed this for me when i purchased brake pads there. They also asked for the receipts for the brake components. - A declaration from the repairer that fitted the brakes. I filled mine out myself. This form was supplied by VTNZ and was easy to complete. - As i had a bill of sale from Turners, i was not asked to get any sort of declaration from the police. The vehicle was actually de-registered by the insurance company / previous owner as a write off. So i believe this would be different if the rego had just lapsed. The inspection took just over 2 days. I had to book it a month in advance and left the car with them. I was told they would be removing interior parts to check seatbelt anchorages and for hidden structural damage. I asked if I could help by removing anything beforehand and was told it would be appreciated but wouldnt affect the total cost. So i whipped the B pillar lower trims off then got distracted and left it at that. It looks like they removed the rear seats, boot floor panels, side trims and the quarter panel trims around where the rear seatbelt anchorages are. A few clips got broken and a couple of small trim pieces were damaged with one seatbelt escutcheon missing. The front rad supprt was noted and I was told the vehicle should really fail because of it, but because of the dirt and crap on it, If i could clean it up and it looked good - he would be happy. I cleaned up the panel with some new paint, took pictures of it stripped back before painting and showed that the flakyness was just from stonechips and spilled coolant. There was no rust or structural problems. The recheck took 10 mins and the car then had a WOF. The Inspection - TLDR summary - Yeah they broke some bits - Reasonable and good to deal with - Basically a WOF with much greater focus on looking for badly repaired damage and structural defects - Interior trim was removed for inspection, dash was not, floor carpet may have been pulled back but was not removed. - Expect the same sort of varying standards as a WOF inspection. I suspect some people are nazis and some are totally bent. Either way, most of your problems are going to come down to the interpretation of the rules by one inspector. Your mileage may vary. - Brakes and rust are two major pet peeves for these people. Brakes are checked for rotor runout, wear, fluid and pad condition. Its easier and better to just slam new pads, rotors and fluid all round. Hoses and pipes better look great too. - If you have some damage that you're not sure about - go ask the inspector you plan on using to have a quick gawk at it first. A repair cert is $740 and you do not want to go down that road over a silly little problem. The final visit to VTNZ After having the inspection pass, the wof sticker applied, I had to fill out a couple of simple registration forms. Then after 10 mins of typing - I was given new plates and another bill to pay. Paperwork was easy. Since I had already provided all of the declarations needed, there was nothing left to do but type all my info into the system.

If you havnt found one by monday, lemme know and i'll fax you a copy / email

I believe for it to be a statutory declaration it has to be signed in front of a suitable person. I got a ready made form from VTNZ and it specifically had a space for a witness / JP to sign.

It was a moment of confusion...i thought i was buying a XT Turbo.....again Subscribed

An older gentleman was collecting 2 A40's while I was there. He spent a few minutes telling me how awesome 4AGEs were too. Good guy.

AW11....because race car

Just wanting final confirmation on this before i take a welder to the trans crossmember and prop shaft hanger bearing. What materials should the spacers be made from and what rules do i need to follow/the guy im paying to do this needs to follow. Will probably end up in your shed again Clint so what do you need? The factory trans crossmember on an outback is just shaped differently to give the right amount of drop.

Im manual converting my outback and i might have to use a Legacy prop shaft and trans crossmember. The only difference is that the outback stuff is spaced away from the floor by an inch. Can i just slam some spacers on the Legacy bits or will I run into problems come cert time and should just use the Outback stuff?

Giz a call with part number, got account with fenix

I'll actually attend this one. Gotsta be in Tauranga to check on a boat so might as well have tea too.

How rude sir! I've never been so insulted in all my life /domoredoorts

Id rather have 10ft of pipe swinging on a cone seal or a flexi than putting all that shizam onto the exhaust studs/welds. All Subarus and Hondas have them. Cant speak for Toyboata Only time ive seen it be a bad idea was the pre-turbo one a mate welded in that got all melty and took Mr turbine wheel with it.