sholdowa

Anywhere beween 3.5 and 4 will be good. What's the width of the axle??

Did someone say they had a cheap atlas for sale???

It was the block that was used for the original Mexicos - which were bored out to 1850cc, and the iron block BDAs

Nah - 831C... now you're talking. Best you can get without going alloy.

1. Brakes... if there's no obvious fluid loss, then it is probably the master cylinder seals that have gone. I also once blew out all the seals on a front wheel slave in a panic stop, which is a good reason to think twice about installing a remote servo on a non-servo'd car. If the blake fluid level was extremely low/ empty, then you could well have got air in the system, and you'll need to bleed them to get some feel back. If the servo has gone, then the pedal will just become extremely heavy. 2. Indicator. The resistance of the circuit affects the speed at which the indicator flashes, which is why you usually need to change the flasher unit when you regularly use a trailer. The resistance is provided by the lamp filament, so as the others say, you've lost the curcuit through the front indicator. Whether that's caused by the bulb, connection, earth or whatever, a multimeter should tell you.

Malcolm McRae has an IRS Mk.2 escort. From what I've heard, it doesn't handle as well as a 5/6 linked live rear. I'm going adjustable coilover 5 linked, but that's as far as I can afford ( or not as the boss decides )

NZ post isn't that bad. I don't expect that I can get stuff like this even in chch, but as I live in the wop wops, it's pretty irrelevant. I'd just like to buy from a company inside NZ, unlike the stuff I've currently got on a boat somewhere on it's way from the UK. Now that's fucking stupid - 30+ year old stuff and I have to truck it half way round the world. I'm building up a Mk.1 which'll have cage in it, so it's going to have to be certed and legally abused when complete anyway. I just want to do it properly this time, instead of the shoestring budget I had 20 years ago. This thread is my reference, if I'm not sure how to do something I see how Kev went about it. I'll just dream about the cossie, watts linkage... and stick with the pinto and try for a 5 linked atlas eventually..

It seems that the current fashion is to use the braided, flexible brake hose throughout the car these days, as in http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread. ... 054&page=2 Apart from the fact that it's going to cost an arm and a leg to do a Mk.1, can anyone suggest a source for this stuff??

Go the full HSR! That'd be fun. However, beware... you cannot easily mix vauxhall chevette and the opel stuff. Vauxhall is all imperial, and Opel is metric. Luckily it wasn't me that found this out.

Just jack/lift the engine out of the way. Check the length of the spline to attach the steering column to first... you may need the knuckle as well...

No, that's not right. The caliper bolt holes are in the same place. I think that the Mk.2 tie rod ends fit mk.1 struts as well... imperial taper with a metric thread??

Mk. 2 racks use different length steering arms - shorter ones. Can't remember if the steering arms are in the same relative position to the axles. You may have fun getting this tracked ( I find 0.5 - 1 degree toe in is best... gets a bit too lively with more ). Got some old tyres to get you to Tony's??? All you should need to do is to loosen the lock nut and unscrew the end. New ones are $100 each at Palmside. Anyone know of a cheaper place?

Does anyone know where I can buy one? I don't want one of those tuning fork ones, and the only screw one was $160 from repco.

So you're just trying to get the track rod end out of the steering arm? Use a ball joint splitter, screw type, not the tuning fork one that f*cks the gaiter, get loads of tension on it and then hit the side of the steering arm with a hammer. Should eventually come out with a very loud bang. Failing that, find someone with a 20 ton hydraulic press to separate it. Only needed that on an Armstrong Siddley Sapphire, which uses a straight, not tapered joint.

There's normally a flat on the steering arm you can put a spanner on. Otherwise, moles, I suppose.

http://www.greengecko.co.nz/sump.jpg

Straight cut is really noisy though.

yup 27th

Was it this one?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... d=84752817 First one I've seen to fit an Escort that used 4 bolts to hold the struts in... the old Mk.1 strut braces sere huge and almost circular to get round any downdraught carbs that sere fitted. You should be ok with a straight one and sidedraughts tho'

thats probably my one that I'm selling with driveshaft, and the Dellow bellhousing etc. Considering the W50 is worth at least $250 by itself and the dellow bellhousing is $600 new.. plus sleaving the input shaft etc etc.. $350 is a good deal. Will you take a T9 in exchange? Very similar to the one that was in your garage until a few days ago!

It'll be Saturday before I get them up...

I might be able to help you with a sump. Bloke reckoned it came off a mk. 2, but I'm not so sure. Steel with an extra wing welded on. If you're up for it, you're welcome to try. I've bought an alloy RS2000 one instead. You've got to take it off to upgrade your oip pump anyway I used to use a Renault 5 filter on my x-flow. It was really small, never got damaged, and made for loads of space. You needed to change it quite often, though, and I did run a cooler with that.

Dunno how much it's going to cost to get a gear linkage, and a propshaft made up. I've bought a T9 off RT, but I've changed the diff from 3.89 to 3.54, but small flange to big, so I need to source and replace both ends of the prop as well as shortening it, and buy a quickshift. If that's going to come near to $250, then this gets to be a more interesting proposition. Opinions gratefully received.

Must be the alzheimers kicking in... either that or od'ing on Paddy. I knew that, just forgotten. I wonder how much relearning other lessons is going to cost! There's a Toyota W50 gearbox for sale with prop... is it worth it $350? The gears seem to be very widely spaced. Thanks

can you not put wings on what's left of the sump? You usually have space away from the starter motor.