Flauski
-
Posts
946 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Flauski
-
-
SO much want! It is perfect, perfect colour perfect period correct.
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, fletch said:
Yes 30 and 87
Have you got it wired up as per the pic? Maybe move the yellow wire to ign.
The relay hasn't got any trickery in it where it auto cuts out as it warms up. Maybe your yellow wire which is now sense if you have jumped it as per above, hasn't got a great connection to 12v.
Plus it will always be on as its connected to battery and ground.
Isn't the white/blue ignition? Are you saying tap off that for the relay power as well? Yellow wire gives the 12V only while engine is running right? white/blue is ignition and will power relay but also provide the source to auto choke when ignition is on?
I will check the voltage at the yellow wire.
-
So the 'electric choke relay' per the above image doesn't appear to function.
Am I correct in that on a standard relay white/blue is 30 and blue is 87? Why would the relay itself buzz like crazy?
-
I can only imagine how hard finding the coupe specific bits will be so its great to be mostly complete.
Yahoo search tailored for such a look;
Great start, look forward to following this. Also kicked the tyres on Marketplace.
-
1
-
-
36 minutes ago, Nominal said:
Linking google photos like that only works for a few hours - best to upload them to oldschool.
I thought it might have been fixed because they showed. Should be solved now anyway.
-
1
-
1
-
-
K11 in its natural habitat, a garden centre.
Manual, 1996 with 25,000km on the clock....
-
4
-
1
-
-
25,000 genuine kms on a 1996 K11
-
5
-
-
On 12/10/2023 at 19:24, datlow said:
Might be a repeat?
Love the "Can Tour" rather than Canter
-
2
-
-
https://www.trademe.co.nz/4387815711
Flagged at border for rust (minor or not it's a headache), uncomplied, 2 terrible photos and $220,000 asking price....
Cool car, not sure it's the holy grail Mazda. Thoughts?
-
2
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Saw this beaut rock into Jaycar behind me on my old wheels. Know they were mine cause 2 different pairs / recognised the chap.
-
16
-
Oooof, always wanted one of them.
You've got all the cool toys.
-
1
-
-
PTS for the win, cheapest and covered. Per post link, I tried classic and Scott, both wouldn't commit to timings unless fully paid.
-
On 18/02/2023 at 23:23, fletch said:
Bugger.
See this link for a good explanation of how the original reg works
https://240z.life/voltage-regulators/
also i think this covers it, even tho its slightly different. Also mentions auto choke relay near the bottom of the page.
The 510 diagram you posted looks like it suits your wiring, but the pins in the plug are different to Kickers photo. You must have the Yellow wire in your regulator plug splitting off to the choke relay coil and its not shown on your diagram.
You could do some probing with a 12v wire onto each pin of the regulator plug (car side) and listen for the clicks of the relay to confirm what feeds it. Just don't touch it on the ground pin.
Im surprised the light is staying on when you connected it directly to the alt and the S to the battery. Have you got a voltmeter? Did the voltage rise once the engine was running?
I once did a rush job engine conversion on a 90s nissan. I had the S wire connected but i hadn't run the charge light wire to the dash. Temporarily i had to start the engine, then touch a wire from battery positive to the L terminal to energize the field and get the alternator to charge. Once it started charging it was away. If your charge light is staying on, there might be a problem with the alternator?
Yes, the screenshot above of a factory manual is indeed the factory manual I drew colours on to highlight. Yes, the auto choke relay is not even shown but can confirm it directly feeds off the yellow wire going into regulator.
The voltage raises to an acceptable level (about 14.5v) when car is started so alt must be working.
Still can't work out why dash light it on, every thing I have read suggests if light is on, alt is not working and won't be charging.
-
Did that today ^
Light stays on but no solid click of relays engaging when connecting battery with key off.
Some things are not getting powered, I know the auto choke relay is one for sure. Had to google the factory part number to work out what it was and as you can see, it does not exist on the wiring diagram?!
-
Not sure? I suppose I could try another alternator but it came off a running car. Won't solve the problem with draw when car off anyway.
-
Have now tried swapping to same as you @kicker, connecting 5 - WB to 3 - WR and diode facing the same way - it has made no difference. Still charging, charge lamp stays on, loud click from relays heard when car is off and battery connected.
The alternator is a Mitsubishi AQ2250? 50 or 60A IC. Can see from the pic I just took that it is wired correctly to S and L.
-
13 minutes ago, kicker said:
I did the same conversion on my 260C, I'll see if I can dig up the details but from memory for me it was as simple as connecting two pins on the plug directly and connecting another two with a diode.
Yep that's what I've done, per the first pic of two plugs inc a diode. The issue is around the extra relays etc in the same circuit. For late model Z it is a seat belt warning / fuel pump, for me it appears to be ignition accessories and auto choke.
I know changing the wires linked by diode may solve the lamp issue but potentially not the rest (triggering relays when car off causing draw on battery.)
-
1
-
-
Have a 1977 Nissan Laurel KHC230 and the wiring has me a bit stumped. I know there are some OS experts in this field.
I don't want my car to catch on fire / melt wires but I don't want to have to disconnect the battery every time it is off too!
Must be some of the last cars to have external regulators.
I have replaced my alternator with an IR one. I have tried following Nissan / Datsun instructions online which are a little conflicting but the wiring colours seem to match. It all seems to depend on whether other relays are in the same circuit.
1. Alternator S (signal) (Y)
2. 12v from fusable link (W)
3. 12v acc? (WR)
4. Ground (not needed) (B)
5. Alternator L (lamp) (WB)
6. +12v but shares same colour wire to a lot of other relays etc? (WL)
This is what I used;
After following those above instructions I can confirm -
Alternator appears to be working / charging, however there are some issues - 1. warning lamp for charging stays on 2. There is draw on the battery when the car is off, relay(s) can be heard click on when positive connected. It appears that the ignition accessory relay / intermittent wiper box are powered up.
Will I fix it by following these instructions instead? This shows 5 white with black stripe + 3 white with red stripe connected instead of 5 + 6 connected. Out of shot of the wiring diagram for my car it would appear that the white/red (WR) ends at the actual charge lamp on the dash?
Wiring diagram for my car;
Any ideas? Is changing the wiring as indicated going to stop power being fed to other devices when car is off? Or am I going to have to do something more drastic with regard to sourcing power from somewhere else?
-
11 minutes ago, Nominal said:
Seriously doubt that the police will be doing DNA testing to identify car thieves.
It's not a Mazda Demio, its a 50K+ 808 coupe. If I was the owner, I would be pushing for it, and hard if told no.
-
2
-
-
22 hours ago, RXFORD said:
So fucked hey. Scum cunts.
I'd be checking to see if theres any sabre saw blades in the pile, and getting them finger printed.
Feel for the owner, that's gotta be soul destroying. To be honest its part of the reason I got rid of mine, they still attract a good portion of the wrong crowd. Got followed more than once, got paranoid about even starting it / warming it up at my house.
@dabuzz I'd be getting the top inside of that coke bottle neck swabbed if it wasn't left in the car by the owner. Protected by weather + no way it just found its way between roof etc. Even though partially burnt, fire doesn't always destroy DNA.
Also some enquiries with local hardware shops may find shady characters buying a bunch of blades recently, especially when you know the brand etc.
How did they get it? Ignition appears possibly fully in tact?
-
3
-
-
The last one of these I went to at Manfield I was annoyed I spent 20 bucks to get in.
The cars were very very average. Bunch of rfb shit boxes with different coloured panels and MX-5s in the show and shine.
It was actually laughable. The glory days are gone.
Even if there was a massive contingent of OS, still wouldn't pay 20 bucks to get in when there are better events for free.
The Shannon car show around the same time was 100% better, 1000% better mix of vehicles for the gold coin entry. That's on 19th Feb 2023.
-
8
-
1
-
-
20 hours ago, Raizer said:
MR6A form and get new replacement plates, makes the ones "old mate" has as good as dereg'd.
Doesn't help if your original plates are black or personalised that you want to keep though.
Yep, this is the simplist solution.
Not having the OG plate and body tag is less of a hit than any other shonky idea.
It's all about having possession of the car with the stamped chassis number, which you have. Body tags don't mean shit unless you have a 70s nz assembled car which some don't even have a stamped chassis number.
Same thing happened to a chap I know with an rx2, yes he wanted the OG plates and body tag but he didn't want to pay the exuberant price for them.
Or you could make a blackmail complaint to Police, if you can find a sympathetic ear and be prepared to waste a year of your life with going through court.
-
7
-
-
On 09/10/2022 at 19:40, oldrx7 said:
You purchased????
I wish, just figured someone from NZ would buy and maxx profit.
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, dabuzz said:
what a steal - be for sale again for 140k in 6 months
In New Zealand
Makes a change from all the real dog looking Mazdas being imported from SE Asia.
-
1
-
HumberSS's Datsun 240c coupe of irrationality yarns
in Project Discussion
Posted
Yeah buyee is easier, usually a chassis number works well in searches because they crossover in English and Japanese.