cute wee gem

Awesome, I didn't know that

Guide coat?.. that is a good program, missed it today - seen it a few years back anyway Guide coat = colour with primer, when blocked back it shows low spots that still need to be fixed

Yeah if you have a big TV box or something use the polystyrene from in it, just glue it together

who said sandpaper??,theres more then one way to remove a run. Tell us then

Depends what you want to make it out of, steel, fiberglass etc

http://www.toyota3tc.com/forum/viewtopi ... &start=165 Don'y know if you would call this pimp.. but IMO its awesome

Hmmm, is there ways to get runs out before it dries?, I got a few runs once, just cut them out though..

Now thats got me confused, about wetting the floor.. when I did the Colt the guy who set it all up for me wet the floor before we rolled the car in there, it was dryish before I got cracking on the paint though, Avenger what do you do?

Not that I know of, highly doubt it.. did f/glass flares on my old 20 the same as the rest of the car

Yeah mozzies are cunts, gotta paint before about 2-3 in the afternoon when outside, personal experience with the mozzies haha. Just go over what you have sanded with 220ish.. then prime and your all go You might be able to prime straight over, but I think the point of primer is to etch into the scratches? Could be wrong though

Is your van REALLY straight?, if so you can paint straight over the paint, just throw down sealer first.. but being and old car i doubt its straight unless its been panelled and painted before and your doing a colour change

Depends on how many layers of bog are needed, like on a lil dent I'd use 120 grit.. on bits like the back I'll use 40 grit as it will need another layer to finish it off and get it right, then use 120 as its less scratch marks to sand out in the primer later on

Yeah hose it down, stops dust etc from flying back up when painting sills etc You say you watch alot of the programs on disco channel, watch the guys on american hotrod, overhaulin etc paint, do a 50%ish over lap on strokes, go fastish.. but not too fast.. do a few test peices before you do the car and try different speed on stroke etc

Also, wanting to know abit about pearls, this stuff on trademe seems like a good idea (was gonna do it in clear over green), Is it worth doing as a noob painter?, the painter who let me use his booth when I did the colt didn't say anything about painting pearls being hard, but I didn't do a very noticable cover of pearl on that car, and I want this to be quite noticable. Is it easier to mix with the paint or in clear?, for consistancey in the pearl that is.. cheers http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 030146.htm

Would it be better to paint a car outside or in the garage? Does heat make the paint have less orange peel or is this all in gun technique/setup?, when I painted my colt it was in a heated booth and it came out with alot less orange peel than my corolla, but I had learnt abit in between and was using an expensive gun setup by a very good painter/pro

explain yourself Hard to explain, like when you sand it with 500, goes really smooth, but you can feel a texture when it hasn't been sanded.. This could just be overspray from painting in a garage though..

common method by panelbeaters,as it saves masking+there retarded .as paintshops have to sand it back anyway,with a brush you can apply much thicker Yup, I rekon using a little roller would be alot better

Work on the Mini has slowed down unfortunatly, due to school etc but have done some work the last few days.. Rear getting the bog treatment, Its all ripply as I think it might have been nudged from behind, was straight before but I decided to strip all the bog out anyway and start from scratch. Will be snowboarding all next week so unfortunatly no progress will be made, but by the end of next weekend it should be near paint

well the paint should go dull, then your ready to prime. primer should go smooth instead of that roughish texture it has

Also Alfaholic, I'd just sand the car back with 220ish sand paper then prime, do the dents then prime again, block sand the whole car and do a guide coat if you wish (colour mixed with primer, when block sanded the low spots stay the colour, high goes back to primer) Can also do the dents before you prime if the original coat is shiney it can act as a guide coat also. Final sand with 400-500 grit sandpaper before paint I need to work on fullstops eh?

dylan: you can use a brush for primer filler, its just easier if you only need to do a little bit so you dont have to set up the gun or clean it afterwards, I'ver done it.. just not for a final coat, although a proper panelbeater rolled primer on the bonnet of my sisters supra as a final coat before paint (sanded it quite abit though) Alfaholic, need more info as to "whats the best way to do it". As for the shopping trolley dents, use a hammer and dolly then sand it and fill the ripples with normal filler, just tap the dent on the inside of guard etc with dolly of the right angle (this is pretty easy to figuer out, common sence), generally flatish dolley for straight panels, if you have dents on door, try get into them from the other side with a dolley (roll windows up, can kinda get in there) and use a "hammer off dolley" approach, where you tap AROUND the dolley, which is in the centre of the dent which should give the dolley a rebound action to push it out, again, sand then fill

LOL!!, mad boso pipe au

I'd have to say thats the awesomest boso pipe I've seen yet

Panels with red showing are now straight and bits with filler will be finished tomorrow, back end and boot need a bit of work, front valance needs fuck all PS, drivers door is trucked.. has a big dent and was filled with like 1.5cm of bog over the whole front half and the passenger door is full of rust

Car is looking awesome man, can't wait till its finished