cute wee gem

Cheers man, do 1275s bolt straight in, and is it worth buying one? 1098cc atm

Decided I might spend some money on performance of the little beast.. So what should I stay clear of?, suggestions etc would be great cheers

Got my engine last night, standard 1100

No real updates except the car is back in primer, been lazy last few weeks and kinda waiting on doors.. The reason I'm looking for new doors.. rusty one could possibly be fixed, and other one re-skinned or bogged Really don't want to bog it though Panelbeater told me I can use his booth again! .. what a good cunt

All good, I'll just ask the panelbeater, can't wait eh - getting my paint priced up atm

I want it to be seen easily (the gold) but don't want it over-done.. Dont want it to stand out this much But I want it to stand out more than this I'll just mix it up a little at first, then add more into another coat etc? - Just mix the clear up like normal and put some in or mix in lots of thinners or what? Thats where I'm lost, because the pearl on the colt seemed like just thinners + the pearl

Oh ok, well I'm using Debeer paint aswell, I did the Colt in it and I liked it especially compared to the rancid resene stuff I used on the Corolla So yeah, had experience in liquid powder?, any specific mixing rates or whatever?, panelbeater mixed my pearl up last time so I have no idea Cheers

How come?, liquid

Found some Debeer gold pearl, anyone had experience with this?, Last pearl job I did one of the panels had slightely more pearl in it (painted it off the car) I think I just need to concentrate harder and try be consistant

Hahaha, I just love doing it eh (painting) and have read a shit load on it through the years Just wish I was more artistic, pinstriping/airbrush etc

Probably because that stuff doesnt stick to bare metal very well, rust killer is meant to go on rust, not clean metal Use etch primer for that shit

I'd also cut it out, but if you have to use POR15

Just get a cheap gun then, no point wasting 400 bucks on something your hardly going to use IMO, get a gravity fed gun (with the cup on the top rather than hanging off it) as I rekon they are much better to use

Ok, what I meant was if you get a proper brand then you can't really go wrong, as there are alot of cheap knock-offs. Are you only painting a guard or do you plan to do alot of work with this gun later on?, whole cars etc, or just touch ups/1 panel type jobs?

Just go with something branded. I have a Devillbiss GTI (non-hvlp) and that cost me 450, and I love it especially compared to any other gun I've used except for a Sata something.. which was 1000+ Sata and Devillbiss are damn good brands, a few others I know of are Binks and Iwata, Avenger said Welmade are good guns, which are cheaper I think

Might do hah, although poor Mini is growing on me and I havn't even driven it yet haha, just so bloody simple cars and small/easy to work on

The Mini is getting the block treatment with only a few minor/finishing panel work duties to go, also decided its going to be dark green with a gold pearl Still haven't got my engine.. gay

awesome, your t-shirt is also awesome, awesome.. awesome awesome, awesome bet you can't wait to get driving again

Your engine bay = awesome, not too blingey.. just clean and nice

I have posted this somewhere else but here it is again just for the paint thread - Setting up your spray gun http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/body-exter ... aygun.html Avenger or any other painter, if theres anything wrong with that link then explain/discuss, But it worked great for me (the setup part)

First tin of bog I got was Turbo, at the time I thought it was great untill I got K&H Toucan which I use now and is only 10 bucks or so more for a big tin Yeah same deal here, I usually use 40 then 120-150 then prime, Is wet sanding primer better or what?, I've always just dry sanded it..

First off for the cracks I personally would strip all the bog out then use a hammer n dolly to try an get it straight as possible then do a skim of bog on the whole dent area then block sand it back. Yes you can just sand the clear then prime over. To get rid of pin-holes in the bog try mixing the hardner/bog differently, try "fold" it rather than swirl it around

Well the last few days after school etc I've been trying to get some work done This part can't be hammered out as the pillar is in the way, but its not as thick as it looks

Do ya actually want to strip the paint?, cause you could just sand it back with 120ish and the flakey stuff should come off, then prime over that?

What sort of respirator should I get?, my one isn't great and I can't find filters for it, I will be painting outside or in the garage with doors open etc Found http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 289623.htm and http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 350887.htm I figuered the 3M one would be easier to find filters for? and what kind of filter cartridge do I need as there are organic, acid etc and how long do they last? My one says do not use with isocyanates and most of the paint I use has them and it makes me sick and I get headaches from it..