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tortron

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Everything posted by tortron

  1. Suicycle MADDNESS continues engine is mounted and would probably go if i started it (probly with a drill as on of the tab things on the pull start broke, may be fixable) oh and i de stickered it, heaps better/dont notice due to the front mounted death machine
  2. shroud increases the fans pushing power by like 70 percent
  3. section 38 Engine adjustment after major overhaul once at road running temp 6 check and re adjust the valve clearances by the following method: switch off the engine, disconnect the breather hose from the rocker cover, the coil cover, plug leads, distributor cap and slacken the bolt which holds numbers 3 and 4 spark plug leads to the support bracket. Unscrew the rocker cover screws and lift off the cover. 7 Reconnect the ignition components and start the engine. Unscrw the throttle stop screw until the engine runs as slowly as possible. 8 insert a feeler blade (0.008 in/0.20 mm) between each valve stem and its rocker in turn and adjust the rocker nut until the feeler can be withdrawn with a stiff pull 9 adjust the throttle speed screw to give normal idling speed then switch off the engine and refit the rocker cover
  4. Cylinder head - reassembly and installation 1 install the valves in their original sequence or if new ones have been purchased, to the seats to which they have been ground. 2 fit new valve stem oil seals and circlips to the four inlet valve guides. 3 insert the first valve into its guide, first having applied engine oil liberally to its stem 4 Fit the valve spring, the retaining cap and then compress the valve spring and locate the split collets in the cut-out of the valve stem. Release the compressor. Repeat these operations on the remaining several valves. 5 When all the valves have been installed, place the cylinder head flat on the bench and using a hammer and a block of wood as an insulator, tap the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 6 Install the rocker balls 7 Install the rocker springs so that the smaller coil is nearer the cylinder head 8 install the rockers and the self locking nuts, only screwing on the nuts a few turns. 9 make sure the faces of the cylinder head and the cylinder block are perfectly clean and then lay a new gasket on the cylinder block so that the word 'front' is visible from above and correctly located. Do not use eny kind of jointing compound 10 lower the cylinder head into position, insert the cylinder head bolts and tighten them to the specified torque and in the sequence shown in fig 1.21 7 4 2 5 9 (side with exhause etc) 10 6 1 3 8 11 each rocker can now be swivelled aside and the respective pushrod installed. apply engine oil to all the rocker components 12 valve clearences should be set with the engine running and hot, as described in section 38, but at this stage they should be adjusted to approximate clearances so that the engine can be started and run. To do this, apply a ring spanner to the crankshaft pully bolt and turn the crankshaft untill no.1 poston is at tdc. This can be established by placing a finger over no.1 plug hole and when compression can be felt, continue turning untill the crankshaft pully pointer is opposite the TDC mark on the timing cover. Insert an 0.008 in. (0.20mm) feeler blade between the end of no.1 valve stem and the rocker and adjust the rocker self-locking nut until the feeler blade is a stiff sliding fit. Repeat the opperation (without moving the crankshaft) on no.2 valve. The clearances for both inlet and exhaust valves are the same 13 Turn the crankshaft until no.3 piston is at TDC and repeat the adjustment procedure on valves 5 and 6 (counting fromt he front of the engine) 14 turn the crankshaft untill no.4 piston is at TDC and repeat the adjustment procedure on valves 7 and 8 15 Turn the crankshaft until no.2 piston is at TDC and repeat the adjustment procedure on valves 3 and 4. IF the foregoing sequence of adjustment is followed, it will prevent the crankshaft from being rotated unnecessarily as the engine firing order is 1-3-4-2
  5. haynes manual (ha i have like 8 different chevette manuals) tappet clearance in block 0.0006 to 0.0019 in (0.015 to 0048 mm) Torque wrench settings Cylinder head bolts 55 lb ft 74 NM feeler guages are like free to buy anyway, get some then you can pick locks with tthem too
  6. na, everyone knows that chevettes look mint when they are high as a kite
  7. vauxhalls are put in everything. must be awesome or something beauty rings are needed for full awesomeness, powdercoat teh rims dark silver.almost gunmetal
  8. steelies are for the win though. should shell out the cash to get the grill properly chromed. would be far minter on this fine steed
  9. well il be different and say use a gsx1000 engine (being the ghost riders other bike)
  10. piazza will no doubt be the stronger of the 2
  11. boe, vw golf shocks/mounts are the perfect fit. far better than cutting up a "priceless" chevette
  12. yea h-town is pretty crap, clubs are wank as/dosnt matter cos im too awesome to get into them anyway
  13. mega, il rock up on my bike, i supose its oldschool
  14. anywho http://www.chevettes.com/forum is likely to answer any questions
  15. piazza is a tried and tested conversion that is also ftw. if i recal you can put some volvo or carlton disk brakes on with no troubles
  16. yea for sure, 1256 is pretty shit for power, even the kaddet thou is better
  17. they share the same chassis from the a pillar back, so you may gind that you will need diff engine mounts, and probably need to alter where the bonnet latch is
  18. rofl at that, expecialy the seemingly gigantic ford plate
  19. update-arino* did brakes front and back, hows that for heavy duty rat rodding has begun. e.g my seat gay, one of the gear wires snapped, meh have another
  20. may even go as far as using a bit of cooking oil in the mix, makes it smoke to the days - taken from rat motorbikes should post my 1930s bike, og paint, pinstriping, internal drum brakes on teh back. could probably class it as a rat bike. also want to put an air horn on it, but i doubt i could crank enough power from the chainsaw. maybe a small battery mounted behind the seat
  21. dunno why i chose that frame, had another like racing frame, but i prefered this one. yea tyres are pretty small aye, like the next size thinner is those propper racing ones, so many a front tug shall be done. Tho of course im going for extra brakes all round. its rocking the centrifugal clutch (il modify the sprocket on it or put another one on it) so at idle it dosnt spin. the front wheel is really a back wheel from the other bike i got, i widened the forks by like a cm to fit it. semi-auto on the front, i.e change gear but dont disengage the clutch. its almost rideable now, can pedal but need to do the sprocket and make up some engine mounts (cant have bungee cords all my life). cant wait to get it mattblacked and ratted, il probably rock extra oil in the mix to ensure full 2-stroke smoke screen, probably make up an exhaust for it, tis too loud really. Am thinking il make one that extends down the fork and then is like side exit. in total it shall be a rancid rat bike freak i plan to become http://www.ratrodbikes.com's god
  22. Finally i have aqquired all (well pretty much) the bits i need to undertake the suicycle project i have been planning for a while now. Even better, i got everything for free!!! local recycling centre/dump = mean source for bits of crap that will gennerally rust away in my shed Anyway onto the project. Take one 32cc talon chainsaw 2 perfectly good 10 speed bikes let me have too much time on my hand (devils work no doubt) add an angle grinder, drill, probably a welder at some point --and you get the suicycle im basing it on such mopeds as the solex. Running a front mount engine, giving front wheel drive. This way i can rock 10 speeds pedaling and 5 on the engine. plans for the future, make some custom fibreglass engine covers and possibly wheel fairings and the such, find me like a goat skull with horns to slap on the front, then spraybomb the whole thing matt black, then do a bit of pinstriping - likely red and gray im thinking so, pictures
  23. hammer and chissel boe
  24. buy me new tyres for my rostyles and il give you my standards au
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