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Posts
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Posts posted by Nominal
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1 hour ago, azzurro said:
would actually be worth cutting up to throw in the back.
Mrs has given 'approval' via eye roll rather than a flat NO and would be willing to come on a collection run/South Island Holiday at some point
Whats the gig with this marshlands place - is it being cleared out so need to rush/are the people ok to deal with etc?
@Carsnz123 can likely haul it out for you. Last time I was there the custodian only wanted complete vehicles taken out.
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My BOC rental bottle is empty so I thought I'd swap to the Bunnings options.
However they wouldn't let me take one in a car, had to be an ute/trailer which is a big PITA.
So I'll be back to BOC but swap to the D-plan I suppose.
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House party in J-ville?
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4 minutes ago, igor said:
My Civic got knocked back for a wof a couple of times for oil leaks. When I went to fix it I found that some of the sump bolts were barely finger tight. Might be worth just checking all the sump bolts and giving it a clean. Always assuming that the gasket is not completely rooted of course.
3 minutes ago, AllTorque said:Oil leaks.
As long as it’s not going to cause a fire or get on the brakes it shouldn’t fail a wof.
I had a look in the VIRM and didn't see anything specific about oil/ engine fluid leaks (except fuel/brake fluid)
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5 minutes ago, kws said:
How much oil is a British car allowed to leak before it fails a wof....?
Quite a lot? I've sometimes had leaks mentioned but never a fail point.
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26 minutes ago, azzurro said:
deregistered italian 1960s rust
Basically this this a good idea or have i gone quite mad?
Seems like a good idea to me!
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Talking to some of my hot rod mates in Levin today, and the factory there that made dixbro brushes closed down last year, so it may be that they are re-labelled imports now.
Scuse Herald link.
https://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/news/article.cfm?c_id=3&objectid=11919651
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Dislike Chrysler wiring diagrams btw. Hard to follow!
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Yes, you shouldn't have the main feed between alt and batt going through your ignition switch.
Had a squizz at a factory diagram and it looks similar to my ford system. Main charge cable goes through ammeter, with feed for lights, ignition, fused live, etc teed off between the alt and ammeter.
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Have you got a wiring diagram for how it is currently wired - assuming it's mostly factory still?
On mine the full current from the alternator to (or from) the battery goes through the ammeter (in and out of cabin) with the ignition switch feed teed off on the alternator side of the ammeter. The ammeter could be bypassed in this case by directly connecting the alternator feed to the battery.
I think this is the situation you have - if the alternator output is connected directly to the battery then the ignition switch will only be handling current from anything connected to that, not full alternator current.
What is still live in the dash with the ignition off, and how is it getting power?
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Candidate for 13B conversion?
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Ignition timing correct?
Fan looks right BTW.
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How cheap?
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Been MIG and TIG welding on a 10A plug for ever. Even some quite high currents.
20Amp breaker on the circuit.
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Best look:
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51 minutes ago, cletus said:
I have both mig and tig
I use my mig more,
if I have fiddly stuff that I want to look pretty I use the tig, I still have a lot to learn about it though.
mig is good if you just want to blaze stuff together or do rust patches on slightly questionable panels/things that are not perfect/gaps not 100%
also mig seems a lot more economical on gas
I'm pretty much where Cletus is.
I find the mig easier in rust repair as it is easier to fill in gaps and deals better with less than perfect prep.
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23 minutes ago, Steelies said:
buy mine!
Wrong colour!
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Nah, loads of 'Trade: A Question on your auction" emails
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1 hour ago, WLDRX2 said:
Gonna ask him some questions on his auction?
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The rack mounts on the spare are pretty ugly too, so have some Whiteline ones on order from BNT. New correct boots are coming from Palmside. Cleaned up my special borgeson steering universal that connects the Nissan column to the Escort rack.
Cleaned up one hub and spindle, need to take the other side apart, but it's cold out there. My father made the new hubs so I could get 5 stud Ford/Toyota pattern at both front and rear.
Got the arms sandblasted at Steam and Sand in Porirua. Nice and clean for the NDT man.
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New Bunnings 'Gas N Go' Welding bottle hire
in General Car Chat
Posted
Might do that as it's on the way to BOC anyway. BOC dgaf and I just drive up/drive away.