crazy_rich

bloody twigs eh?

so ya reckon thats the best plan of action eh? sweet, it certainly would sort it all out. cheers for your advice man, much appreciated. Think i'll hold off until i find a rear sump though, do it right this time.

The rest of it is all pretty low, i've attached some (rather blurry) pictures. my sump is definately vulnerable, i'm planning on rotating the crossmember back around 180deg and using a rear sump (if i can find one) if i raise the engine up any higher i'll have to chop my tunnel out so that the part of the gearbox that the shifter bolts to doesnt hit just forward of the shifter hole. (my original worries were that the standard plenum would hit the bonnet, but im running itb's now so thats not a problem) im starting to think i should tweak my mounts, chop the tunnel and raise it all up 20mm or so. under the car, looking side onto the gearbox and the crossmember i startd to make same view, just back slightly front on with the sump top right.

mint picture dude... the question marked bits are rubber, basically i cant use the supra mount because even the bottem of that is gonna be too close to the ground (my cars going to be very low) and thats my problem. im quite interested in that place in auckland, i wonder if anyone in chch does that kinda thing. making a mould isn't a problem, ive got access to a machine shop. basically it would just be cheaper and easier to find an exsistng mount of another kind of car that i can adapt and use. and im certain sandwitching rubber with a throughbolt (like in your picture) is considered solid mounting. what a pain in the ass. might just solid mount the fucker, steel plates etc. really intersted in what kind of exsisting rubber mounts you other guys have standard in your cars, they usually seperate from the crossmember, as in my pictures. a 25mm tall profile or less would be perfect.

pretty picture sounds like a fantastic idea, from what i understand if i attach a bar under th supra mount it'll be scraping on the ground. or are you suggesting solid mounting the crossmember to the g/box and rubber mounting the crossmember to the car?

took some pics, labelled the rubbers, i figure that by the time i adapt the capri one to bolt to the supra box it'll be another 15mm thicker. athough i reckon i could mow 10mm off the top in the mill, not too keen though. Mate at work suggested electrical insulation rubbers from an electrical supply store, reckon a few of those would be strong enough? [/img]

thanks for ya help, should have a workin camera tomorrow, is it considered solid mounting to bolt 2 plates together with a slab of rubber sandwitched in between? as it will be able to compress but not stretch.

Hey, im having a nightmare making a crossmember for my w57 supra box for the capri. has anyone else done it before? or know of anyone who has? my problem lies in not being able to source a low enough profile rubber mount to maintain sufficient clearance between the crossmember and the ground. At this stage the gearbox/bellhousing are set to be the lowest part of the car. Ive tried using both the standard capri and the supra rubber mounts but they are both too tall. does anyone know of a slim profile one i could try out? I'd like to post some pictures to help explain what i mean, but i cant get hold of a camera, i'll do my best though. any help would be very much appreciated, cheers guys.

haha, if we're going that way... i heard 1uz's have the bestest alternators.... think i might chrome my alternator... it'll be gooot for like 20v then eh. 1uz fit into capris easy. just gearsticks... fucken gearsticks. i'll try find my old v4 alternator, its bound to be a powerful one, i bet it has more horsepower than the engine ever did. god im drunk

bet an sr20's alternator would solve any problems... shit ya mightas well chuck in the whole engine. just to be safe

cut up your airdam? what did it do to you?

my capri is 970kg in the book. wouldnt call that heavy. i say keep it ford too, sound like a hypocrit but im startin to regret what im doin, twin turbo quad cam mondeo v6 eh.. eh... you know u want to. shouldnt cost much more than 15 grand, plus conversion costs... if u want a fast car just buy an evo. way easier. i bet all the hot chicks would be scared of the power of the capri as it is anyway

capris do have a long nose, but the engine bay isnt really that long, they have a 3 foot long radiator support panel (especially in Josh's pre facelift one) and the firewall isnt in line with the hinges of the bonnet, its about 3 feet forward, so it doesnt leave with that much room. id say do a lexus, but im starting to have second thoughts about doing it to mine now (too bad im committed) so Yb it or suffer the wrath. vroom

man, thats gotta hurt eh. if u can get 5 grand for your engine and maybe add another $4-5k i reckon you could have a turbo pinto. but i also think it'd be an idea to try get a YB engine out of a crashed cosworth (something i should have considered) if u manage to get the whole car you can transplant everything, from the fuel pump to the computer. id be surprised if it cost more than 8 grand, depending how much you can do yourself. (the engine would literally bolt straight in as im positive the blocks are the same as yours) i reckon a 59 box would handle it too so long as u didnt thrash it every time u drove it. theres alot to consider though, if u turb'd ur car you would probably need to get an atlas rear end, new gearbox, driveshaft, bigger brakes (princess minimum) fuel pumps, surge tanks, neck braces, you'd need a computer, then theres heaps of little crap, like fittings and fuel lines wires and plugs (fkin wreakers chargin $10 a plug?!), radiator, quad headlights (a must), shit like that. personally i say do it, standard pintos belong in escorts. if u wanted to keep it pure, reasonably quick and old school, look into putting a granada v6 (not an essex) into it, but saying that, you might not be happy with the performance till u spend $7k on that engine either. meh ill stop the rant, but hey if u need any help makin shit, give me a buzz eh

3.54:1 is out of a facelift (73-74) mk 1 capri 2000gt 3.44:1 is out of a pre facelift (69-72) mk 1 capri 2000gt thats all my haynes book tells me, cos the v6 ones have atlas diffs

ill be entered next year mate. you can count on it

yeah man, good stuff, im puttin power in mine, who cares about weight, i have a v8. almost rhymes.. i reckon honda prelude ones would work in my car, could be bringing unreliablility into the mix though..

hey man, if you do end out carbing it i'll buy your quad throttles off ya

http://www.caprisport.com have a brake kit that uses sierra rear calipers, they dont use a vented rotor though, thanks for the post, ive got that kit on my watchlist

yeah, sweet as. pretty sure this box is off a v8 anyway. good luck with it all eh.

I think the w50 will be sweet as, its torque that kills gearbox's and turbo cars tend to ease the torque on in a different way to v8's, in saying that do it once and do it right. i'd hate to go through all the hassle of getting the w50 in, then popping it 3 months down the track and goin back to square one. mate of mine's had a mustang t5 box sittin in his garage for years, if u wanted ya car to be truely all ford, ill ask him if he wants to sell it.

$500 is pretty cheep for shortening a diff. just chop the axle housings off your old diff and weld them onto the bigger diff's centre and shorten the axles, then you wouldnt have to worry about moving the mounts. it'd be a minter. id make sure the diff is strong enough for what you want before shortening it though

if the pistons are rooted, make sure you bore it out lots and put some big pistons in it, the sierra blocks are supposed to have more meat in them than the cortina/escort ones. chuck a blower on it

hahaha ricecannon... haha love it.

yo, im putting a W57 onto the back of my Lexus v8, i have made the adapter plate, but am just wondering if anyone could help me with sorting out what kind of clutch master/slave cylinder combo i should use. I am going to make a custom billet flywheel so i could basically use whatever clutch pack i wanted so long as it has the same spline as my box, and fits inside the bellhousing. Does the hydraulic clutch setup have to be a match to the clutch pressure plate (i.e. off the same engine) or can it be anything, so long as it moves the thrust forks in far enough? I was thinking about using the standard turbo supra clutch pack, but i am unable to obtain the hydraulic supra bits. would a hilux, levin or mr2 turbo slave an master cylinder work? thanks for reading this. any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers.