oldrx

Huh? In this day and age in a classic capitalist crisis of under-consumption throwing that drill is exactly what they want, or more accurately need you to do. Everything is fucked correct, tighten your seatbelts kids when reality catches up to us shit gunna get real in a fuck i hope these potatoes grow kinda way/hedge-hopefully not

Aliexpress doesnt inspire confidence tbh, maybe same factory bro applies dunno. US is fine as I can sort free shipping on small items.

Looking for decent pre (1/2") and post (3/8") fuel pump filters at a reasonable price, low pressure (5psi). There are plenty of $150-250+ ea units on offer (im guessing as the margins are massive), question is do I really need to spend this much? Seems a bit BS. Just want some basic plastic barb ended filters that have micron ratings... are they out there??

Good call, will go rivnut, hopefully can borrow install tool from work

Im assuming its certable to mount fuel pump with blind fastners (pop rivets). Looking to fix a bracket for pump to underside of car just forward of fuel tank to hollow section of pressed steel that is part of the floor, well attached to the floor pan ya know. Cant get to the back side, ok to fix it with 4 pop rivets?

Thanks for reply RX2, With 50mm lower arm spacer i will have 65mm arm flange to stop mounting flange (travel will be 65mm less thickness of after market bump stop when i get some - maybe 10mm thick?). So plenty i guess, thought I would need more.

75mm spacer? Whats considered an acceptable bump stop clearance?

I really love how you cut a brand new $tacked gauge rather than cut a 80's bit of Toyota plastic, seriously I wish that mindset was more common

Is there a limit to how long a lower control arm spacer can be (under strut)?

You happy with the Fortune Auto product quality? Have emailed for a quote.

Yeah this seems a better way to go, wonder how hard it is to DIY... Off to cert thread to search about spacers, guessing if they are bolt on i can go nuts...

Yeah think i will go weld on or the set up where the whole spring assembly screws into the strut tube to avoid compressing the spring to adjust height. Guy on Ausrotary looks like he does a good job of them (link below). Problem is my wheels wouldnt clear even the smaller dia spring with a lower perch, currently have approx 10mm clearance between tyre and strut tube in pic above. Dumb question but does the spring usually sit inboard of the wheel? Must do i'm guessing. If so my wheels are going to have to move outboard around 30mm. Wheel is 14 x 6.5in and already tyre is up against gaurd (will prob roll inner lip part) maybe i need to narrow it to 5.5in to clear a 60mm ID coilover spring. Or a big ass spacer and small gaurd flare. http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=234161&hilit=adjustable+suspension

Right, how do people get their cars so low? I guess they just have suspension that doesn’t do much. Measured bump stop travel last night, with a 50mm lower arm spacer i will have 65mm flange to flange (travel will be 65mm less thickness of after market bump stop when i get some - maybe 10mm thick?).

Should mention must be certable, happy to get custom springs, for the cost might be comparable to coilover kit where you can often specify Spring length and rate

Can I machine away small part of front hubs? Bit of them show through gaps in aftermarket wheels, looks rude as shit.

Anyone clued up on suspension know what an approx min Spring length would be to still retain decent drive ability? With a 14in wheel and 195/45 tyres with top of tyre level with gaurd (dummied up jacking wheel up) the compressed Spring length will be about 130 mm. My factory perch is only around 30mm higher than where a weld on one would have to go so coul get an extra 30mm Spring length here but not sure it's worth It. [/url]

Calculating shock length to avoid bottoming out with height adjustable suspension; If my total strut length from base to underside of strut tower is approx 500mm at what will be lowest setting (wheel jacked up to approx lowest position) then my shock length needs to be no longer than 500mm? Or can be a bit longer and run a bit pushed it so to speak? Guess i need to know stroke distance?

Carb to mani gasket - sealant or dry?

Sucessfully got some seized brake caliper pistons out - insert grease nipple into bleed hole (thanks ENZED) crank grease in - too easy. Previous bashing with big hammer wasnt doing shit.

Car not mobile so no seat of pants power data available, timing light next pay day. Dizzy rotor lines up at tdc mid range on base adjustment though, was running 3/4 to max advance when it was heating up. Hard to start with less timing and barely runs. Maybe vac leak causing lean

Ida are expensive, empi do a copy green brothers in Tauranga sell me. Q, 13b headers glowing cherry red after idling at 2000rpm for under 5 mins seems at bit much? Must get temp gauge. Fuel pressure seems high spitting out main jet at idle - could be related. Think I want a more old man spec pump anyway carter way too loud.

Nice will read up properly when i get a minute "The infrequent user does not particularly want to pay out twenty to forty dollars for a tool that seldom gets used" I'd kill for that kinda pay back

Alternate method to set torque on steering box worm shaft? Torque driver is over $400 USD. Factory manual specifies 1.0 - 4.0 cm-kg (0.9 to 3.5 in-lb). Would take it to a shop if it was a quick job but adjustment is via shims so a lot of mucking around/hrs/$

Air box seal; 10 in dia rubber seals - where to buy or what to make them out of? (Mazda RX2, OEM is NLA)

I reckon the closer to factory colour and interior you go the happier you will be with it in the long run.