fuel

No they wont. They are completely different. The 6G72 has a V shaped bell housing, and the Astron doesn't (go figure..)

Oh yep. Well the main point I was making is that a 225/50 R15 isn't going to be the same diameter as a 265/50 R15. One will look like a balloon, and one wont.

Are you wanting to retain the same overall rolling diameter as your original wheels, to keep the speedo correct and make the engine work less? If so, a 225/50 R15 is going to be alot smaller in overall diameter than say a 265/50 R15. The 50 refers to aspect ratio, ie 50% of the 225 or 265. It's not a set profile. Check out http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html and enter your original wheel size, and find direct alternatives in other wheel sizes.

Problem is on those leones, the spare wheel is in the way. The turbo outlet pipe and the intake plenum pipe are closish together, towards the front, so a front mount intercooler is possible.

Niiice.

FWD DASH engines uses TD05-12b turbo. Don't think the TC06 bolts up to the TD05 flange anyway.

Yep Overdrive is effectively a high gear, much like 5th in a manual gearbox. Overdrive is not a good thing to have switched on when driving around town either, as it's like driving in 5th gear in a manual at say 50k.. it just puts too much load on the engine. Most jappas from the mid 80s have a power/economy setting too, which just alters the shift points. The shift points are usually determined by load rather than just revs.

The Evo "zero" motor is no different to the normal E39A Galant VR-4 motor. It's the injectors, ECU, intercooler+piping that makes the extra 20kW difference. All 4G63 turbo engines have oil squirters.

No such thing dude, you are probably thinking of a 4D55 or a 4D56.

This car may look in a bit of a mess now, but hopefully when I'm finished with it, it will be all good. The previous owners took this (once) perfectly good car, stripped out the interior, took off the air filters, painted it wacky colours, scratched their names into the paint work and used it as a paddock car. It has a 1600cc 2T-B twin carb motor coupled to a T50 5 speed box. Here's a few pics: My plans are to (probably in order) * fix up the clutch - needs new slave cylinder, clutch kit possibly * sort out interior - needs door cards, back seats, rear seat belts, sun visors and other misc bits * repair the small amounts of rust, do a bit of panel beating and primer her up ready for a paint * look into replacing the 2T-B with a 4A-GE or a 3T-GTE If anyone has parts for a TE71 spare, let me know please. chur

Yep Nissan actually use quite a bit of Mitsubishi stuff. They often use Mitsubishi starter motors and solenoids. Mazdas use Mitsubishi distributors and ignition systems. Mitsubishi make semiconductors and other electronic components found in many vehicles too. And people still mock Mitsubishi

Uhmm, no dude. It's generally a good idea to put LOAD on the engine, and revving it will not necessarily do this. Don't go thrashing the engine, but when breaking it in, get up to highway speeds, and in 4th or 5th accelerate at near full throttle, then slow down and repeat a dozen times or so. Also don't let the engine idle for too long either, and don't try and break them in until they are fully warmed up.

If you aren't mechanically minded - then I would give it a miss. While the 4G54 isn't a complex engine (ie it's just a basic Single overhead cam 8 valve carby motor), it has a timing chain, which will prove alot harder to disassemble than a belt driven motor. If you can sort out the removal and the re-installation of the timing chain and tensioner, then it is fairly straightforward. You will need to remove the manifolds. Remove the rocker cover, and there should be 10 bolts (might have an 8mm hex head) and thats about it. While the head and timing belt and front of motor is disassembled it might be a good idea to replace the front oil seals too.

Like what? a 4G37? 4G33? that's the only choice you have to 'bolt on'. a 4G37 head has a different combustion chamber design (more wedge shaped), and the pistons on a 4G37 have raised tops, with indents for the valves - the 4G32 has recessed pistons tops, and a more hemispherical cylinder head. A 4G37 head bolted onto a 4G32 will lower the compression ratio drastically. Perfect for adding a turbo. You would probably need to shave the head a bit to get it back up to around 8:1. The ECI wiring loom isn't that hard.. it just comprises of the ECU, loom to the ECU and sensors, injectors etc. You'll need to upgrade your fuel lines, and add an electric fuel pump. I think you would probably have a more reliable (and more fun) engine if you kept it N/A, and just do mods like lumpy cam, twin sideys, extractors, stiffer valve springs, balanced bottom end, higher compression etc.

Hehe here's where I come in handy. You do realise there was a FACTORY ECI Turbo 4G32 right? It was in the '84 to '88 shape Mirage Turbo. It's FWD, but the inlet manifold and ECI gear will bolt on, you would have to make a custom exhaust manifold though for your turbo, as the FWD one wouldn't suit. You would probably have to do that anyway if you were going carby turbo. The 4G32 isn't a particularly good engine to turbo. The SOHC and 8 valves really lets it down. It has a really large stroke compared to the bore too, so it wont be a high rev (and I mean 6000rpm) screamer. You would probably be alot better off dropping in a 2L Starion 4G63 motor, alot easier to acheive 150hp at the wheels. The 4G32 ECI Turbo engine only made 88kW anyway, and that was on 7.5psi of boost. I doubt you would be able to do better on turbo carby (I assume suck-through too). Oh, The early model Cordia Turbo 1.6Ls had a 4G32 with a suck through carby turbo setup - it was horrible. It would make a BBQ of it's turbo every 50,000kms or so, and the exhaust routing was stupid. Again, the 4G32 really isn't an ideal engine to turbo. The 2L SOHC 4G63 should bolt up to your current manual gearbox too.

Lol, not quite zep. They're mounted backwards. Normally motors are mounted east/west (number 1 cylinder on the left looking at it from the front), hondas mount them west/east - so your number 1 cylinder is on the right. It isn't just Honda who do that Muzz. Mitsubishis before pre 96 generally did too. My Galant and Sigma were mounted so the cam belt was on the right hand side of the engine bay - so was your old Diamante. They made the switch to the other side around in the 96 onwards shape cars - ie 95 Diamante, 96 Galant/Legnum, 96 Mirage/Lancer. The FTO switched in 1994 though, yet the GTO still has it on the other side like originally.

Sometimes stuffed oil seals can let oil into the intake side as well. I've had that happen on my old Cordia GSR Turbo.